Well if you have an A1 then bolt ons are like a Godsend, seriously...if you do all the internal work (cams, compression) and put bolt ons on afterwards, I wouldn't doubt a solid 20whp gain. If the bolt ons and IM rob the stockies of 15 HP it'll only increase as you're trying to move more air through the engine. If you have an A6 though, truthfully I really don't know if you need a header, and the intake and exhaust aren't that bad...an H23 plenum swap is really the only "bolt on" you need. I think pulleys help too, and if you can junk your A/C and bypass your P/S you'll seriously increase the response.
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Originally posted by lordoja -
Not to dog anyone, but for all-motor power many of you have not mentioned the quality of cylinder headwork into your power-making equation. You have to take the time to find a guy who knows what he's doing and spend the money, it is not a cheap investment.Comment
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Well even if you just bolt stuff on you can make really good power. Seriously, how much does a good port and polish job and IM extrude honing cost? From what I know all that's done is the paths to and from the ports are straightened and smoothed out, and any steps between the head/gasket/manifold interface are removed. I mean I guess if you're really going all-out or you know a dude that does good work then go for it, it definitely helps at the right places. But the HP/$$$$ ratio of headwork ALMOST doesn't cut it. You're not gonna find even 10whp unless you really go crazy and make love to the head (BIG NO HOMO)...
Originally posted by lordojaComment
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You could pull 200 WHP out of the stock block.
Also whoever said you don't want to go for a N/A build THEN do turbo is WRONG!!!!! If you build for n/a first your WHOLE motor is gonna be stronger thus meaning higher boost levels can be achieved equaling up to more HP.
If you go and boost a stock block ytour gonna be pushin it to go up to 10 PSI. Then things are gonna start breaking, ask Todd and Burleigh.
Also porting and polishing and other headwork doesn't cost all that much and does give you more than you think glory."you can catch me swoopin 4G coupin switchin lanes" haha haha.
1993 SE coupe drag car ahoy!
1992 EX coupe 5 spd **sold
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1991 LX sedan 5 spd **tore the tranny apart**
sold to: jakfrostwhite,F22Cb7Rid3r, and many others
Did work for: jhoff_cb7
Traded with: 1990AccordEX,pr3pg4lyfeComment
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I agree. For those of you going TRUE all-motor build...if you're attitude is that of headwork not being worth it...well, you'll have a nice view of my tail lightsOriginally posted by JDMCB3Si
Talk to a guy that knows what he's doing, he'll put you in your place.
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Originally posted by gloryaccordy
I'm sorry but
.... you obviously do not have a good source for headwork. 
and i'm not talking about someone polishing your knob either....Comment
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I'm shooting for at least 225hp with a turbo at 8psi and 272 regrind head.Comment
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No, actually whoever said building an n/a first then turbo'ing is bad was correct. N/A applications use lightweight rods and pistons made for revving high.Originally posted by JDMCB3Si
The p&p job on an n/a head is made to increase the air's velocity not necessarily hogging it out so you can cram more air in as with a turbo application.
As for breaking stuff you didn't include the ppl that have had no problems for quite some time. Its been discussed before turbo doesn't = unreliable.Knowledge is power...in EVERY sense of the word
FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" #12Comment
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so pnp the head is a good idea if i plan to turbo?Comment
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Yes....it alows more air to enter while the valve is open.Originally posted by tomace234Comment
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anything that increases airflow is good for a turboOriginally posted by tomace234Shift_BOOST
BOOM!Comment
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For a turbo build, I'd go stainless or some material holding up to high heat for exhaust valves minimal. Also, it's beneficial to increase your exhaust to intake airflow ratio...so increasing the efficiency of your exhaust flow particulary for a turbo cylinder head not so much for the intake is necessary since your forcing the air in there.Originally posted by 92exComment
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Originally posted by midnite racer x
MRX u r my favorite african in a whole new way now, i wanna make some oreo kids with you, lol.. no! but seriously i kjnew i was right and there is the perfect example, whoever said going N/A then boost is wrong, u can do it, hell no... u must be retarded... seriously, one major aspect of a N/A engine V.S. a turbo engine anyone will tell you is compression... unless u can A, tune yourself, or B, have the money to tune high compression... shit, then your out of luck, so for us true all motor enthusiasts, me, hondafan, JDMcord, mick, and a whole bunch of H series guys... man, ok, tell me this then, i am a true all motor guy, through and through, i am ganna run 12:1 compression on my F-series and i wanna run on 91 oct, now do u think that i can turbo it with lightweight stuff, like even a 8lb flywheel, man that flywheel would kill ur boost like a fat kid kills a hot fudge brownie ice cream sundae, and another thing, internals now, so if i run this super high compression and a turbo kit with the build i had in mind it would blow ring lands faster than you could say someone pissed in my weaties... so F*ck off, u dont know what ur saying rickie retardo!!! (this was directed towards JDMCb3Si, be smarter and shut ur hole b4 u give us all a dose of some real retarded-ness, man! that isn`t even a word, look now my IQ went down 10 points, oh, u sunk my battle ship!!!)Comment
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If you would like to donate to the micks needs a new cyl head because his is way fucked fund my paypal is: micks92accord@aol.com
Uh i have to agree jer what you smokin dude?
Dynamic racing
Look out for 4 point cb7 strut bars for dohc!!!
Originally posted by deevergoteComment
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easy as this....... 1)any aftermarket part will decrease reliability....if u think not then ur a retard and u shouldn't be around cars. 2) turbo's are less reliable then N/A engines basically because of the added power. U won't be able to get as much power from a N/A engine as a turbo unless u go Nos. 3) u shouldn't build a engine for N/A then switch over to turbo bc as most of u stated, just not a good idea, things will break. 4) i c it as a issue of what do u wanna do? have a N/A daily driver with barely any thoughts of "o sh*t will my engine crap out today" or have a turbo'ed cb7 that u should race with and will constantly have to wry bout. i don't care if u have a stock pistons or even heavy ass duty pistons and all that stuff. with the power it makes, things are bound to get fuc*ed up sooner than later unless u r super rich and spend like 15k on your motor. u may not have issues for years if taken proper care for but they will NEVER last as long as N/A engines that are taken car of equaly. i like the reliability of the N/A and the respect it gains, but i love the power the turbo makes. i mean lets say i have a kid come in to do a dyno run and say he puts out 200hp, most of u will be like hahahaha pussy. than ya find out its on a N/A f22. hmmm yes then u r like o wow. the kid says he puts down 250hp with a turbo'ed f22 not bad for f22, h22 not as impressive. easy as hell in some aspects to increase hp with a turbo. N/A well yea it takes alittle more work to get even close to those wonderful turbo numbers. don't get me wrong. i respect all of u turbo guys that really did your research and put together a very good car. i am impressed. but for the N/A guys, hats off to ya!
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