goal of 250-275whp?

[ryanjones45]

my current mods are spec-d tunning cat back and high flow, m2 performance 4-2-1 headers, short ram intake, H23 Intake mani ported( not installed yet)

My future mods i want to add is ported head, bisi stage 2 cam, h trans/w lsd, 450cc bisi injectors, also wanted to do a block rebuild with forged pistons, chipped and tune on hondata

will these mods reach my goal?? wat if i rebuild the block oem will it still be able to reach this goal ?? Also any suggestions on what mods i should add or subtract will be greatly appreciated

[dj_ender]

my current mods are spec-d tunning cat back and high flow, m2 performance 4-2-1 headers, short ram intake, H23 Intake mani ported( not installed yet)

My future mods i want to add is ported head, bisi stage 2 cam, h trans/w lsd, 450cc bisi injectors, also wanted to do a block rebuild with forged pistons, chipped and tune on hondata

will these mods reach my goal?? wat if i rebuild the block oem will it still be able to reach this goal ?? Also any suggestions on what mods i should add or subtract will be greatly appreciated

Gonna need a serious increase of compression to come close to that goal, and an excellent tuner.

[CB7Nub]

If your looking at N/A most likely it's NOT going to happen.
It's pretty difficult to get than on a H22A, I assume you have a F22A.
F22A N/A making that power will cost more than a turbo setup which is better for your goals.

If your looking to get more than 250WHP usually, a built turbo motor is the best way to go. Plus the F22A would need INSANE compression and probably need race gas to run and NOT be streetable at all, at least legally for smog.

[ryanjones45]

O ok i figured that i would never reach my goal
Just doing a n/a build , guess ill go for a turbo setup but i dont want anything crazy just somthing I could drive every day but still have power for the track, spools up around 3-3500, easy to maintain, any suggestions?

[Jarrett]

I have a suggestion. Read the wealth of information on this site to custom tailor your own thoughts for turbocharging, seeing as you decided all of 15 minutes ago to do this. There have been many combinations done on here before over the 9 year history of this site. There are many builds that were well documented so that people like yourself could come behind and read the results they had instead of just blurting out questions so general as "Which turbo should I buy?"

[ryanjones45]

I did my research on the n/a build that I wanted, and it was looking like I would not reach my goal thats why I made the thread to see if i could and if it's worth it, i was think about going turbo for a little while now a have done some research on it, just was looking for suggestions on what turbo u guys think will fit my needs so i can go from there

[BurtonRiderT6]

I did my research on the n/a build that I wanted, and it was looking like I would not reach my goal thats why I made the thread to see if i could and if it's worth it, i was think about going turbo for a little while now a have done some research on it, just was looking for suggestions on what turbo u guys think will fit my needs so i can go from there

I think this turbo will do you well, it will get you to your goal and give you some flexibility if you want to go a little more.

http://www.precisionturbo.net/Street...GT42-Style/280

If you don't want that one then check out this link.

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=186877

[Joey GT-R]

If your looking at N/A most likely it's NOT going to happen.
It's pretty difficult to get than on a H22A, I assume you have a F22A.
F22A N/A making that power will cost more than a turbo setup which is better for your goals.

If your looking to get more than 250WHP usually, a built turbo motor is the best way to go. Plus the F22A would need INSANE compression and probably need race gas to run and NOT be streetable at all, at least legally for smog.

I disagree. 250-275whp is attainable on an F22; with an H22 it is even easier.

The only "negative" is that N/A builds get expensive really quickly. I'm not sure what your budget is, or your commitment is to this build, so take some time to think about it. Worst case scenario is maybe you need a 35-50shot of nitrous to put you over, but I doubt it.

If I were to do it, my mods list would comprise of the following:

Bisimoto CNC Portflow & Valvetrain
Bisimoto Level 3 Camshafts & Cam Gears
Bisimoto F22A 85.5mm 12:1 Pistons & Connecting Rods
KaizenSpeed Balance Shaft Removal
Golden Eagle H23A Intake Manifold
DH Racing 77mm Throttle Body
Bisimoto 2.49L Billet Crankshaft
AEM CAI
Bisimoto F22A Header
Custom 2.5in exhaust

I'm confident you'll be where you need to be, so long as you have a good tuner and the appropriate software. It's expensive yes, but you'll turn heads.

[Sordz]

Haha I'm with burtonRidert6, gt42 or go home. 1000whp

But seriously, i don't see it happening n/a. Maybe go built bottom end and a 150 shot if you don't want to turbo.

[Joey GT-R]

I just listed the parts that achieved, said powergoal. There is an F22A making that power on the board; actually 292whp to be exact, and without a few parts I didn't even have on the list I made! So keeping that in mind, the parts I listed would probably achieve numbers in the 325whp+ range. He adds nitrous to the mix and we're talking about a potential high revving F22A pushing 450whp on spray.

I seriously dislike how all of you are dashing his dreams without giving the proposed project its due diligence.

[MortsAccord]

High revs and nitrous don't go together well, you know that right? Also a good naturally aspirated camshaft is not going to produce good numbers when nitrous is applied.

Nitrous is a form of forced induction, it makes gobs of torque. Why dpnt you tell me what you know about pistons and rods designed for N/a amd forced induction. What are their differences? Not only that but you have listed a 2.5 l stroker then mentioned about having a high revving engine, clearly your advice is something to NOT take.

Im not on the bissi bandwagon either. Sure, he's good at what he does, but using his parts over some other available cheaper options isnt going to create some kind of magic. Doing your homework will save money, make your engine last longer, and make you much more satisfied with your build. Don't just run out and purchased a bunch of bandwagon crap.

OP: there's Do you want a race engine or a powerful daily driver? What's your budget range? Don't expect a stock clutch and transmission to hold 2-3 times the stock rated power(for long)

[deevergote]

my current mods are spec-d tunning cat back and high flow, m2 performance 4-2-1 headers, short ram intake, H23 Intake mani ported( not installed yet)

My future mods i want to add is ported head, bisi stage 2 cam, h trans/w lsd, 450cc bisi injectors, also wanted to do a block rebuild with forged pistons, chipped and tune on hondata

will these mods reach my goal?? wat if i rebuild the block oem will it still be able to reach this goal ?? Also any suggestions on what mods i should add or subtract will be greatly appreciated

250whp is going to be a fairly extensive build. 275whp will be nearly un-streetable. Those are SERIOUS numbers for an N/A F22A.

The key is going to be in the internals, the head, and the tuning. You should also consider upgrading that budget junk you have bolted to the engine right now. Bisimoto header (not "headers". You only have one header.), 2.5" exhaust (or larger), and possibly an ITB setup.

Aside from Bisimoto, the next most powerful N/A F22A on this site is owned by HondaFan81. I don't believe the car has seen a dyno yet, since he's still tweaking it... when he has time, anyway. But 250whp from his build is what I'm expecting to see. He believes I'm being optimistic.
I don't know the exact cost of his build, but I wouldn't be surprised if it was approaching (or even exceeding) $10,000.

[wed3k]

in the n/a world, you should be considering larger displacement.

sleeve it, bore the fuck out of it and consider putting an aftermarket stroker crank.

this will utilize more of your bolt ons.

[Joey GT-R]

High revs and nitrous don't go together well, you know that right? Also a good naturally aspirated camshaft is not going to produce good numbers when nitrous is applied.

That's not entirely true. Yes, volumetric efficiency decreases with rpms, but that's why for high power builds, nitrous is added in stages to overcome that small issue. There are also nitrous cams to optimize power when spraying and not spraying.

Nitrous is a form of forced induction, it makes gobs of torque. Why dpnt you tell me what you know about pistons and rods designed for N/a amd forced induction. What are their differences? Not only that but you have listed a 2.5 l stroker then mentioned about having a high revving engine, clearly your advice is something to NOT take.

There are no "boost only rods" or "naturally aspirated only rods". Every manufacturer has strength ratings for their rod, normally in a "power per cylinder" format. Like for instance, Eagle generally rates their rods at about 75-100whp per cylinder, while Manley rates their rods at 200whp per cylinder. You aren't limited to how you approach your build at all.

Pistons on the other hand do have compression ratings and the range I specified of 12:1 to 12.5:1 is suited for nitrous just fine. 13:1 even would work. You would be pushing closer to 14:1 and higher before nitrous wouldn't necessarily be beneficial/reliable to the build. If e85 is available however, his possibilities increase. However I'm going to assume that maybe he can't go that route but if he can more power to him. Either way, he's fine right there.

Why can't a stroker rev high? The K24 cranks are starting to be used on smaller displacement blocks and they are good for 8 grand. So if OEM quality can do that, what makes you think a billet, performance engineered crankshaft can't do the same?

Im not on the bissi bandwagon either. Sure, he's good at what he does, but using his parts over some other available cheaper options isnt going to create some kind of magic. Doing your homework will save money, make your engine last longer, and make you much more satisfied with your build. Don't just run out and purchased a bunch of bandwagon crap.

What options? When it comes to the F22A he doesn't have much. He can go the custom route but then that makes Bisi look like an eBay special. Eagle, Scat, and Probe I believe have all discontinued their rods for the F22A. Wiseco and Arias(with the exception of Bisi Specs) have pulled out on pistons as well. Sure Delta keeps their regrinding services going strong, but for huge numbers you're S.O.L. If you have someone else in mind I'm all ears, I think we all are.

My rebuttal....

[deevergote]

Joey, what you say about nitrous and NA cams isn't really true. Like any forced induction, a cam with a high overlap will result in a serious waste of the intake charge. You'll be blowing unburned oxygen and nitrous into your exhaust... and that's just an explosion waiting to happen.