Sup fellas! just 2 nights ago I was boosting heavy on 4th gear when POP! I originally thought it was an axle. But come to find out 4th gear synchro shreaded completely. I really wanna get it fixed before HT meet. I wanna do it up the right way This time. (2nd tranny RIP) what options do i have for aftermarket gears/tranny/extra.? Reinforcement? And has anyone had success in 1/4 mile with a certain custom gear ratio? I just wanna do it right. Tired of fuckn up trannys....thanks guys!
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The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
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tranny gear synchro options
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Check out Gearspeed at http://www.gearspeedinc.com
I have a trans that they built and I am very happy with it! Accord EX tranny with carbon coated syncros, Prelude final drive (4.266) and Quaiffe LSD. If you want to "do it right", this is the place to call.Originally posted by Junior SmurffNevermind guys, google search works wonders!
I don't have road rage, my car just goes faster than yours!
Accords are for winners. And Grandmothers. But mostly winners.
I have grown so Tired of Internet Illiteracy. Please learn proper spelling and grammar. For your sake and that of your children.
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I've heard good things about the MFactory diff and it's about $200 less than the Quaiffe.
Check availability, reputation, price and warranty.Originally posted by Junior SmurffNevermind guys, google search works wonders!
I don't have road rage, my car just goes faster than yours!
Accords are for winners. And Grandmothers. But mostly winners.
I have grown so Tired of Internet Illiteracy. Please learn proper spelling and grammar. For your sake and that of your children.
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I have the mfactory diff and love it. I have the carbon synchros from synchrotech and though they shift like butter on boosted cars, they blow out just as often as the OEM ones do.
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11.86@120mph T66 turbo 612hp F22A
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People can hate all they want, my f22 is faster than yours.
I have literally been on this site for 10 years, I know what i am talking about!
John 10:18 "No one takes it from me, but I lay it down of my own accord. I have authority to lay it down and authority to take it up again. "
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Originally posted by turbo90accord View PostI have the mfactory diff and love it. I have the carbon synchros from synchrotech and though they shift like butter on boosted cars, they blow out just as often as the OEM ones do.
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If i were going to suggest anything to help make your trans survive a ton of abuse it would be the tilton flow control valve. It help by making your clutch slip momentarily which helps to absorb drive train shock.
Learning how to properly preload your drive train at the track is also really important to the longevity of your drivetrain.
My Wiretuck/ Insane engine bay
member ride thread
11.86@120mph T66 turbo 612hp F22A
DIVULGE MOTORSPORTS
People can hate all they want, my f22 is faster than yours.
I have literally been on this site for 10 years, I know what i am talking about!
John 10:18 "No one takes it from me, but I lay it down of my own accord. I have authority to lay it down and authority to take it up again. "
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Thanks a lot! I'm using all the info Im getting. Especially yours since you've been down the Track more than once and have a killer ass setup! . My plans are to try to get as much passes as possible this year. I'm gonna be running slicks for the first time ever. And I could use all the pointers. Like preloading. I'm (definitely) gonna look into the tilton flow control valve. Is that what your using?
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what are you doing to make that thing eat the synchros so fast? have you looked into an ecu set up that does full throttle shifts and setting it to limit at the rpm its going to in the beginning of the next gear. like my car. when i shift from first to second at 7800rpm it drops to say 4700rpm. so i set it so when i press the clutch to shift to second i hold the gas to the floor and it only revs to 4700rpm so there's no harsh engagement into 2nd.
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Originally posted by jdm92_accorn View Postwhat are you doing to make that thing eat the synchros so fast? have you looked into an ecu set up that does full throttle shifts and setting it to limit at the rpm its going to in the beginning of the next gear. like my car. when i shift from first to second at 7800rpm it drops to say 4700rpm. so i set it so when i press the clutch to shift to second i hold the gas to the floor and it only revs to 4700rpm so there's no harsh engagement into 2nd.
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Originally posted by NWaccord View PostThats the problem. The trannys its gernaded have been in 4th gear in full load, no wheel spining.....when POP's! and because of that and many people/cb7tuner members, I know ima be doing that in like 2nd or 3rd or whatever @ the track. But ima look into what you have in your ecu. I get what it will do and that would help. Im tuned on eCtune im sure its got it. I will be asking my tuner. Would boost by gear benifit in that aswell? Thanks man
boost by gear will save your 1st-3rd, but not your 4th, being that full boost will be applied in 4th
if you want to make it to the meet, switch out syncros
was the 4th syncro, new?
a carbon coated will last about the same as a new syncro, not a used one
damn... 4th
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Originally posted by PR CB7 View Postyes and no.
boost by gear will save your 1st-3rd, but not your 4th, being that full boost will be applied in 4th
if you want to make it to the meet, switch out syncros
was the 4th syncro, new?
a carbon coated will last about the same as a new syncro, not a used one
damn... 4th
Current carnage
The old diff.
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Originally posted by jdm92_accorn View Postyes it would. its the shock into the next gear thats killing you. if you smooth the transition some you'd be better off. its the drop from how many ever rpms its spinning to trying to stop. where as if you can keep it spinning and just slow it down it helps.
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