Can you say....DYNO

[LX Rida]

sick video.

[Accord R33]

yah dont mind me. i was all messed up the first time i tried to get it going lol. dynoing is really a weird feeling. but i got used to it.

check out how much the motor moves too...time for a new custom motor mount

[LX Rida]

yea motor hella jerks....how many miles are on your motor btw?

[Accord R33]

yea motor hella jerks....how many miles are on your motor btw?

200,000

............

[pwrusr]

here ya go everyone.

http://www.strodda.com/shit/dynoday.wmv

Thanks for the vid!

Lookin' good R33!

[DrLove'sKuDang]

thanks a lot Dr.!

no prob. looked like a good pull, and you should definetly get an exhaust next. and why were your wipers on??

i noticed too... your mounts are shot. just make a solid front torque mount and youll be all good.

[Accord R33]

no prob. looked like a good pull, and you should definetly get an exhaust next. and why were your wipers on??

haha. because im a retard

[zeroice]

nice vid....

haha. because im a retard

[MRX]

I'll speak my mind a bit about this. First off great job, congrats, and i'm glad u've worked up the nerve to open her up lately. Its amazing that u got more peak torque than me on your final tune vs. my baserun and i'm quite jealous and pissed off about it Those pulls were at 8psi right?

Now to the tuning. I figured it'd be best to just discuss it in front of everyone so they can learn a bit too starting with the a/f ratio. How was the wideband setup? Was it a sniffer? And do you still have the stock cat still in cause that could affect the readings vs. actual a/f's? For the most part tho it seems u did very well cleaning up the a/f and making it flat and close to 12.0:1. So assuming there are no more major changes that will be happening with the fuel we'll concentrate on the ignition timing.

Looking at your first dyno which was on my original basemap, your torque line doesn't really follow my ignition line. And your peak torque should have been in the 4000's not the 3000's. So i think your cam timing may be off from stock settings...somehow...maybe??? If you find out everything is ok with the motor and nothing is off then you should start adding more timing to the peak torque area and get it to where it no longer gains power or the power gain is so minimal you'd rather leave it where it is. After peak torque you should be fighting the torque drop and keep the torque line as straight as you can until power is no longer available or u think the timing is just too crazy. What i learned on the uberdata forums is that the peak torque should be the most retarded point in the ignition map. The timing should be advancing from the peak torque on. At the peak torque u have maximum cylinder pressure and efficiency right? And at that point of maximum cylinder pressure octane requirements are at a max too right? At that point in time if you aren't detonating then your octane requirements are certainly within limits so retarding the ignition after that point is just going to raise egt's and create less power when u could be operating at close to maximum efficiency both pressure and temperature wise and building plenty of power. Just look at the whp level off after your peak torque...theres at least 10-15whp just by keeping the torque curve straight right there. And also notice when your torque curve starts to drop so does your whp. I'll be trying this next dyno session. I'll need to take a close look at the map to your last dyno. The peak power being at 5100rpm ish seems to just be the exhaust. The 4800rpm drop just seems to be a timing drop at first glance the iab's wouldn't have that drastic of an effect. And why start the dyno at such a high rpm?

[Accord R33]

I'll speak my mind a bit about this. First off great job, congrats, and i'm glad u've worked up the nerve to open her up lately. Its amazing that u got more peak torque than me on your final tune vs. my baserun and i'm quite jealous and pissed off about it Those pulls were at 8psi right?

Now to the tuning. I figured it'd be best to just discuss it in front of everyone so they can learn a bit too starting with the a/f ratio. How was the wideband setup? Was it a sniffer? And do you still have the stock cat still in cause that could affect the readings vs. actual a/f's? For the most part tho it seems u did very well cleaning up the a/f and making it flat and close to 12.0:1. So assuming there are no more major changes that will be happening with the fuel we'll concentrate on the ignition timing.

Looking at you first dyno which was on my original basemap, your torque line doesn't really follow my ignition line. And your peak torque should have been in the 4000's not the 3000's. So i think your cam timing may be off from stock settings...somehow...maybe??? If you find out everything is ok with the motor and nothing is off then you should start adding more timing to the peak torque area and get it to where it no longer gains power or the power gain is so minimal you'd rather leave it where it is. After peak torque you should be fighting the torque drop and keep the torque line as straight as you can until power is no longer available or u think the timing is just too crazy. What i learned on the uberdata forums is that the peak torque should be the most retarded point in the ignition map. The timing should be advancing from the peak torque on. At the peak torque u have maximum cylinder pressure and efficiency right? At that point in time if you aren't detonating then your octane requirements are certainly within limits so retarding the ignition after that point is just going to raise egt's and create less power when u could be operating at close to maximum efficiency both pressure and temperature wise and building plenty of power. Just look at the whp level off after your peak torque...theres at least 10-15whp just by keeping the torque curve straight right there. And also notice when your ignition curve starts to drop so does your whp. I'll be trying this next dyno session. I'll need to take a close look at the map to your last dyno. The peak power being at 5100rpm ish seems to just be the exhaust. The 4800rpm drop just seems to be a timing drop at first glance the iab's wouldn't have that drastic of an effect. And why start the dyno at such a high rpm?

wow never knew that. thanks. It could honestly just be the timming at my distributer, i dont have cams or cam gears or anything..so i dont think it would be that. but i have NEVER checked the timming on this car, so ill definitly take a look at it. what SHOULD it be set to just so i know?

the wideband used was a tailpipe deal, thats why i kept it below 12s, just to be safe. its definitly not anywhere near a perfect tune, but its a big step closer. after i get new exhaust im gonna be hitting the dyno again i think. so ill have more time to play around with everything.

ps. i just got a PM from some kid on HMT who claims to have blown his motor on your map...he says it was detonating at low RPM boost, which i can kind of see happening because the map (on my car) is VERY lean up to like 3700...im guess that when your giant turbo decides to start spooling, becuase then it gets off the scale rich lol. im definitly going to be getting a bigger turbo soon

[zeroice]

correct me if i am wrong but it should be at 7.8psi..

I'll speak my mind a bit about this. First off great job, congrats, and i'm glad u've worked up the nerve to open her up lately. Its amazing that u got more peak torque than me on your final tune vs. my baserun and i'm quite jealous and pissed off about it Those pulls were at 8psi right?

Now to the tuning. I figured it'd be best to just discuss it in front of everyone so they can learn a bit too starting with the a/f ratio. How was the wideband setup? Was it a sniffer? And do you still have the stock cat still in cause that could affect the readings vs. actual a/f's? For the most part tho it seems u did very well cleaning up the a/f and making it flat and close to 12.0:1. So assuming there are no more major changes that will be happening with the fuel we'll concentrate on the ignition timing.

Looking at your first dyno which was on my original basemap, your torque line doesn't really follow my ignition line. And your peak torque should have been in the 4000's not the 3000's. So i think your cam timing may be off from stock settings...somehow...maybe??? If you find out everything is ok with the motor and nothing is off then you should start adding more timing to the peak torque area and get it to where it no longer gains power or the power gain is so minimal you'd rather leave it where it is. After peak torque you should be fighting the torque drop and keep the torque line as straight as you can until power is no longer available or u think the timing is just too crazy. What i learned on the uberdata forums is that the peak torque should be the most retarded point in the ignition map. The timing should be advancing from the peak torque on. At the peak torque u have maximum cylinder pressure and efficiency right? And at that point of maximum cylinder pressure octane requirements are at a max too right? At that point in time if you aren't detonating then your octane requirements are certainly within limits so retarding the ignition after that point is just going to raise egt's and create less power when u could be operating at close to maximum efficiency both pressure and temperature wise and building plenty of power. Just look at the whp level off after your peak torque...theres at least 10-15whp just by keeping the torque curve straight right there. And also notice when your torque curve starts to drop so does your whp. I'll be trying this next dyno session. I'll need to take a close look at the map to your last dyno. The peak power being at 5100rpm ish seems to just be the exhaust. The 4800rpm drop just seems to be a timing drop at first glance the iab's wouldn't have that drastic of an effect. And why start the dyno at such a high rpm?

[Accord R33]

correct me if i am wrong but it should be at 7.8psi..

all the pulls i made were holding at a steady 8spi....i guess it could be 7.8, but the boost guage is only so accurate. whatever the DSM acutator is set at

[MRX]

Eric, u and I both know that anywhere my map is posted then so is a disclaimer and a list of my mods. If that person didn't compensate for his setup then its not my fault in the least bit. Actually the only person who said something to me about detonation (2500-3000rpm range) was RENR and he fixed his by just takin out some timing and adding some more fuel. Hell i had like 140% boost efficiency on the map lol. Anyways if he wants to talk then have him contact me even though its not in the least bit my fault (not saying your placing blame just saying). Anyways, yea i found the stuff about the ignition and torque very interesting also and the more u think about it the more it makes sense. Seeing as most ppl get scared and retard the ignition thus heating the cylinders and roasting piston ring lands and rings all while thinking its safe...seriously the more i keep thinking about it the more i'm like..."why didn't i think of that b4 lol? Dammit i'm dumb!"

[Maple50175]

Accord R33 I wanna boost my car.. Can you help me do it?

[Accord R33]

Eric, u and I both know that anywhere my map is posted then so is a disclaimer and a list of my mods. If that person didn't compensate for his setup then its not my fault in the least bit. Actually the only person who said something to me about detonation (2500-3000rpm range) was RENR and he fixed his by just takin out some timing and adding some more fuel. Hell i had like 140% boost efficiency on the map lol. Anyways if he wants to talk then have him contact me even though its not in the least bit my fault (not saying your placing blame just saying). Anyways, yea i found the stuff about the ignition and torque very interesting also and the more u think about it the more it makes sense. Seeing as most ppl get scared and retard the ignition thus heating the cylinders and roasting piston ring lands and rings all while thinking its safe...seriously the more i keep thinking about it the more i'm like..."why didn't i think of that b4 lol? Dammit i'm dumb!"

absoluty, i agree 100%. it was that RENR guy that said he cracked a rod. he definitly wansnt blaming it on you in anyway though, he seemed cool about it. i was just letting you know. im gonna try and check my timing today or tommorow to see where it is at. just let me know where abouts its should be. thanks.