DC Sports header FAILURE!! WHY?

[Losiracer2]

yeah that's a risk you take...that heat wrap is MURDER on the header, esp. if its already ceramic coated. That wrap is designed to keep the heat in the pipes right? yet the ceramic coating helps keep the heat out? idk I have a feeling that the header got so hot that it started to melt the coating somehow.

Unless you did hit something like a curb or road debris when driving, that coulda bumped the DP upward into the header and caused that fatigue crack.

[19dabeast85]

Is it me or does it look like the wrap has deformed the header over time

I can see marks where the header wrap was tightened to the metal.

Is that normal?

Just the wrap/wrap paint burned onto the header in a pattern, it isn't dimpled as it appears.

[c mak]

I would have to say that its from the header wrap also. I have had my DC on for atleast the 6 years that I have owned the car and not had any problems. I have also never had any of the tabs bolted up to the back of the block either? Maybe I have just been lucky?

[dannyd]

I agree with Kai, but mine wasn't wrapped in any way nor covered.... i don't think there's a way to re-weld it though... that's why i upgraded to ebay headers....LOL

[19dabeast85]

yeah that's a risk you take...that heat wrap is MURDER on the header, esp. if its already ceramic coated. That wrap is designed to keep the heat in the pipes right? yet the ceramic coating helps keep the heat out? idk I have a feeling that the header got so hot that it started to melt the coating somehow.

Unless you did hit something like a curb or road debris when driving, that coulda bumped the DP upward into the header and caused that fatigue crack.

Yeah, more than likely the wrap IS what killed it. I'm glad I didn't pay full price for it and what sucks is my plans was to have this last till I could afford the Bisi header. I'll take it to an exhaust shop and see how confident they are in their welds lasting and I may try that with no wrap and see what happens.

[92smokeaccord]

thats definetly a defective header. call dc sports tell them what happened and you might get a new one.

[ATS666]

Never wrap a ceramic coated header or this will happen. Wrapping a non coated header can cause this to happen depending on EGT's because of engine tune (timming and fuel mix).

It was bound to happen

[kantkillkeenan]

time for the BISIMOTO...gogogogogogogogogo

[HondaFan81]

When I mentioned potential bending moment, I was talking in reference to excessive engine movement front-to-back, doesn't mean your header will look bent. If the unit is rigid enough, it will try to resist a bending moment, but then just crack and it will get larger. I agree that the header wrap would not help this issue, as it would keep heat in, as well as the cold (after engine is cooled down). Therefore, temperature fluctuations will be even more significant with the wrap. Quick temp fluctuations with metal and forces acting on it are never a good combo.

Even if you have 3 ESP poly mounts, have you verified that the engine does move due to no front mount? Also, when did you have the mounts install vs having the header?

[19dabeast85]

When I mentioned potential bending moment, I was talking in reference to excessive engine movement front-to-back, doesn't mean your header will look bent. If the unit is rigid enough, it will try to resist a bending moment, but then just crack and it will get larger. I agree that the header wrap would not help this issue, as it would keep heat in, as well as the cold (after engine is cooled down). Therefore, temperature fluctuations will be even more significant with the wrap. Quick temp fluctuations with metal and forces acting on it are never a good combo.

Even if you have 3 ESP poly mounts, have you verified that the engine does move due to no front mount? Also, when did you have the mounts install vs having the header?

I would think with header wrap, the header itself will heat up quicker, but cool down SLOWER, probably still not conducive to longevity.

I did the 5-spd swap with ESP mounts about 10 months after running the header. The motor mounts before that were in excellent condition though (recently replaced by me before header and in fine shape when removed), and I was running the poly torque mount insert before header installation.

I'm not sure if I've officially verified that there is no engine movement, I just know vibrations increased significantly with the mounts. I'll see if I can get some good torque action on the mounts later today with the hood up and watch for movement.

[19dabeast85]

I just tested for engine movement......parked car heading up driveway with rear wheels at the "bump" and e-brake locked tight. Popped the hood and watched the P/S pump for movement.....4,500 rpms and dumping the clutch quick makes the clutch slip and burn and the engine move maybe 1/4"......engine movement is not an issue here.

[drummersteve7]

yup DC sucks..you wanna go Bisi???? why?
hahaha good luck, since your just handing out money I will take some!

[Losiracer2]

Even if you have 3 ESP poly mounts, have you verified that the engine does move due to no front mount? Also, when did you have the mounts install vs having the header?

True that, My rear ESP mount insert literally shred itself by not having the front mount in. I went Dragging one night at Firebird and the car just didn't feel right, later that weekend I decided to inspect my mounts and my rear mount pin, or the part the bolt slides through, shifted about an inch downward right through the polyurethane, totally cut it up. I didn't want to make it public, b/c this was a freak occurrence, I havn't had any issues since I put my front mount back in. So if you launch hard, drive hard or whatever, I'd reinstall that front mount for extra strength to resist the twisting of the engine when driving/shifting.

I don't want to get way off topic but here are some pics of what could potentially happen w/o that front mount (even though he said its optional after this happening, I still wanted my front mount in)...these mounts were not even 1 month old, so i think it was just a defect but still:









John @ ESP fully backed my problem and promptly sent me new inserts w/in the week, so his customer service is Top Notch if you ever have any problems....really good guy.

[19dabeast85]

The reason why I didn't worry about the front mount with the ESP kit is I know alot of turbo'ed people are doing fine with no front dogbone when they have the ESP mounts, but I may reconsider that decision. You most likely got defective poly bushings because you have the H22a with bolt-ons, no more than 180whp, I probably have 115 whp. That's crazy how it sliced right through the poly though, you must launch hard all the time!

[19dabeast85]

I went to a reputable exhaust shop today and he wants $30 to reweld the header. This $30 + $30 for new gaskets is $60 just to fix this mess. The exhaust shop says he highly doubts it was the header wrap and heat that caused the break, fwiw.

Here's the decision I have to make:

1. I can fix it for $60 as stated above.
2. I can buy an upper a4 manifold for $45 off ebay and hopefully use the DCsports collector.....anyone know if this will work???
3. I can get en ebay special stainless header with downpipe AND new gaskets for $60.

I'm really tempted to get the a4 manifold and hope that it'll mate to the DC collector. This way I can utilize the factory heat shield and help keep bay temps down and my alternator wire loom from melting.

Suggestions?