Intake setup...

[d112crzy]

Nah, I just don't have air tools. Or top of the line bits.

[93F22A6]

Nah, I just don't have air tools. Or top of the line bits.

Well thats why, air tools make it so much easier. With a good bit you can port aluminum like cutting through butter almost.

[GhostAccord]

The intake manifold is a HUGE bitch to port. Not sure what sort of aluminum you've ported, but this one is a PITA.

You must have been using dull, clogged or single cut bits.

A double cut carbide bur goes through any aluminum you will find on a Honda engine like a hot knife through butter. They will cut even faster if you use cutting oil. Air tool or electric drill will work. I prefer the air tools myself but I started with an electric drill and a dremel. Electric will take a bit longer but it's safer for a beginner....anyone who has used a good air powered die grinder will know what I'm talking about...zip gone.

As for deleting the butterflies and making more power... I question that theory. Because from what I've seen it really just moves the power band up in the RPM range and you loose a bit of low end tq.

[d112crzy]

Untuned, yes. I haven't noticed any loss in low end power once tuned, butt dyno and actual dyno. The torque curves seem to be a lot more flat all the way across, from what I have noticed, by eliminating the iab plate. It definitely let the motor breathe up top more though.

But yeah, I'm a beginnger at porting. I'm still using a dremel/grinder with cheap bits. I use small ones that the Al starts melting into the grooves making them useless after about an hour of grinding.

[GhostAccord]

But yeah, I'm a beginnger at porting. I'm still using a dremel/grinder with cheap bits. I use small ones that the Al starts melting into the grooves making them useless after about an hour of grinding.

If you want that melted hot aluminum to go away. Spray some WD-40/cutting oil on your bit, or the part you are working on, every now and then. It will help keep the bit cool therefore stop the bur from clogging as much.

Check out carbidebur.com that is where I buy my bits. Good prices and quick shipping. I go with the double cut because I also have a few iron heads laying around my garage. The DC make working with aluminum a breeze, the down side is that you really have to watch your tool rpm and amount of pressure you apply a bit closer. (easy with an electric drill) The SC are a bit more forgiving.

[d112crzy]

I use ones that look like the first 4 shown, except mine only cost $8 locally, lol.

[GhostAccord]

$8 for carbide burs, where do I sign up? That's a nice find

What diameter shank are the ones you get? 1/4" (die grinder/drill) or 1/8 (dremel)

[d112crzy]

I can get both. The 1/4" I get for $8, and the 1/8 I get for $6. If shipping wasn't super expensive to ship to Canada, I'd get you a bunch and ship em to you if you'd like.

[bagoon316]

shipping isnt expensive to canada via usps. i shipped an ecu to canada for 11 bux, and that was with hella wrapping shit around it. from FL mind you.

[d112crzy]

No shit? It costs me more to ship an ECU from WA to FL than that, lol.

[bagoon316]

damn, yeh lokuputha bought my pt2 for the f20a, and i went to ups, even the ups lady said she would be expensive and to go to usps. 11 bux, swear to god. he is also in the eastern part of canada, so you still might have delivered further, i dunno.

since ur in town, show me where that hobby shop is. i need some stones and other things.

[d112crzy]

come over today.

[bagoon316]

im at work, have school afterwards. i dont get home till 930ish. why we talkin on here, ur on aim, im on aim lol.

[bcjammerx]

I thought the butterflies plus first one were best for n/a (low and high end ie short and long runners)

while the second w/out butterflies was best for FI

[trah]

ported euro r !!!!!