Unorthodox Ultra SSC Crank Pulley $66

[cloudasc]

I was just browsing http://www.unorthodoxracing.com, and noticed that they are having a year end blow out sale. I just purchased the Ultra SSC Crank Pulley for my car P/N 220610212 for $66

Can I get +1 rep for pointing this out?

I just thought I would share the knowledge with everyone... hurry and buy one before the sale stops or they discontinue them.

Too bad they don't have the alternator or p/s pulleys listed for our cars anymore. Cheapest price i've found for the Alternator Pulley P/N 010630202 @ $78.40 via http://www.customcarscentral.com/. Cheapest price i've found for the Power Steering P/N 010640202 @ $97 via http://www.directtuning.com/

Anyone know where I can locate the Alternator and Power Steering Pulleys for cheaper then listed above?

[bcjammerx]

don't you need one of these for the cb7 racing traction bars?

[zigg_1311]

I thought lightened crank pulleys are not really all that great. They are not balanced like the OEM crank pulleys.

[nine_deuce]

Unorthodox Racing power steering pulley, 45 dollars, shipped.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unort...Q5fAccessories

[cloudasc]

Unorthodox Racing power steering pulley, 45 dollars, shipped.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unort...Q5fAccessories

Sweet thank you, just bought the power steering pulley for $45 w00t~! 7 more left. Now all i need is the alternator pulley, can someone find that for like $40. Then I could say I got my unorthodox set NEW for half price.

[Shag Wagon]

I hear they will make your motor go boooom!

[cloudasc]

And the truth is...

I wouldn't trust any other manufacturer in regards to these parts next to oem. These are also the Stock Diameter Pulley sets, they reduce parasitic drag caused by heavier pulleys. Lightwieght flywheels, rims, etc primary use and benefit is the removing parasitic drag.

The main benefit of these is not the reduction of overall vehicle wieght, that is just a minor bonus compared to the real application and benefit.

I hear they will make your motor go boooom!

I thought lightened crank pulleys are not really all that great. They are not balanced like the OEM crank pulleys.

In response to your misinformation I have conveniently posted the faq from Unorthodox's Website in regards to your "Urban Myths" relating to their Pulleys.
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(From Unorthodox Racings Faq located @ : http://www.unorthodoxracing.com/faq.aspx#term01 )
Is my crank pulley a harmonic/torsional/vibration damper or a harmonic balancer?
People are getting their crank pulleys confused with the harmonic dampers found on some domestic V6 & V8 engines. "Harmonic Balancer" is a term used loosely in the automotive industry. Technically, this type of device does not exist. The "balancer" part comes from engines that are externally balanced and have a counterweight cast into the damper. None of the applications we offer use a counterweight as part of the pulley, as these engines are all internally balanced.

The pulleys on most of the new import and smaller domestic engines have an elastomer (rubber ring) incorporated into the pulley making them look similar to a harmonic damper. The elastomer in the OEM pulley serves as an isolator, which is there to suppress noise from the engine accessories; the A/C compressor, P/S pump, and alternator. This is what the manufacturers call NVH (Noise Vibration & Harshness) when referring to noticeable noise and vibration in the passenger compartment. It is important to realize in these applications, the elastomer is inadequate in size and durability to act as an effective torsional damper. If you look at the pulleys on some imports there is no rubber to be found at all. We have samples of these, mostly from Acura/Honda B & D Series engines, Nissan Altima, 1.8L Eclipse, 2.3L Fords, Chrysler 2.2L's, and 1.8L VW's just to mention a few. Most owners who have installed our pulleys notice the engine actually feels smoother. This is result of replacing the heavy crank pulley with our crank pulley. NVH is variable and unique to every car. NVH will increase with the installation of an aftermarket intake and/or exhaust, for example. Think of OEM intake systems in newer cars, they use baffles and resonators in the intake to quiet all the intake noise. Aftermarket intakes eliminate these resonators and create dramatic increases in engine noise from the throttle opening and closing. So to most tuners, certain types of NVH can make the driving experience more enjoyable.

The purpose of a traditional harmonic damper is to protect against crank failure from torsional movement and frequencies of high amplitude. This is not necessary in most modern engines because of the many advances in engine design and materials. Factors such as shorter stroke length, smaller displacement, piston dwell time, piston pin off-set, power output, etc., do determine when and how these harmonics and torsional movements occur. More importantly the actual tune of the engine, espcially with modified vheciles, is the biggest factor in potential engine damage. Poor tuning leads to detonation which is an engine killer that no damper can stop.

Again, there is a lot of internet hearsay about solid crank pulleys. When engine problems occur, too often people are quick to blame the pulley first, rather than taking the time to look logically into why there was a problem. We hope that after reading this you will understand our crank pulleys better. Top

Will Unorthodox Racing lightened pulleys cause an oil pump failure?
Urban myths have been floating around about Honda oil pumps failing by using an Unorthodox Racing crank pulley/s. The real fact is that these OEM pumps have been failing with AND WITHOUT the use of our pulleys and before our crank pulley/s were available on the market. Also note that these failures are few and far in between.

The Acura/Honda oil pumps are excellent units, but there are a number of reasons for the failures that do occur.

Most of the oil pump failures have been in Acura/Honda B series 1.6/1.8L applications, Chrsyler SRT4, Mazda 1.6/1.8L applications have seen a few failures, as well as the new Ford Focus ZETEC in race vehicles. Again, note that on all these applications the oil pump failures have occurred on engines not even using our pulley, they were using the stock crank pulley.

These pump failures can be linked to the following causes. These causes may act individually or in combination to cause the actual failures:

# The gears used in many pumps including those in the Honda B series engines and Mazda Miata engines are of a low-cost powdered metal composition. The factory uses this metal because of its acceptable cost-to-strength ratio. The problem is, these parts are not always deburred properly from the factory and when pushed to their limits can and do fail. # Many times additional stress is added to the oil pump by using oil thicker than what is specified by the manufacturer. The oil pump and bearing clearances were not designed from the factory to push oil of higher viscosities. This extra stress on the gears, combined with the above mentioned poor deburring process, can attribute to oil pump failure or engine failure. # Another contributing factor to oil pump failures is the weak cast backing plate of the B16/B18 oil pumps. Simple inspection shows that when compared to an H22 oil pump, a screw is not present in a critical location of the plate in the B series pumps. Compound this with the use of a higher viscosity motor oil and poorly deburred pump components and you have the ingredients for an oil pump failure. # This issue, specific to the Mazda 1.6/1.8L engines, involves the flex of the crankshaft and the lower half of the engine due to the additional stress of a forced induction system (such as a turbo or supercharger). The additional stress produced by forced induction causes flexing of both the block and the crankshaft between the front main bearing and the oil pump. This can also contribute to oil pump failure. Early Miatas were notorious for having crankshaft problems and later models suffered from problems as power is increased significantly.

Lastly, any failure inside a motor, related to aging components or a poor engine rebuild, can cause the oil pump to fail. ANY particles passing through an oil pump design such as that used in the Honda B series engines will cause damage or failure.

Remember that oil pump failures happen regularly on engines using a factory crank pulley. To help combat these failures, a few steps should be taken to help prolong the life of your oil pump and engine:

# Unless building a race motor with race clearances in mind, you should always use an oil viscosity matching, or as close to the factory recommendations as possible. # If using a factory oil pump, always have your oil pump components deburred properly. It is recommended you have a competent engine rebuilder handle this. # For those who run dedicated / extreme race vehicles we recommend using an external wet or dry sump oiling system. These systems are designed for the heavy abuse a race engine receives on the track. Remember, the stock oiling systems were designed for factory horsepower levels and can only handle a certain amount of power increase over that level.

Lastly and most obvious, have a competent, trusted machine or performance shop rebuild your precious motor. It only takes one simple mistake to turn a costly engine rebuild into a doorstop.

If you have any other questions about this subject please don't hesitate to give us a call or drop us an e-mail. We take great pride in the craftsmanship of our products and are constantly striving to provide the highest quality products available to you, our customers. Top

Will these pulleys cause premature engine bearing wear?
This is a fear many prospective owners have and is a valid concern since we are dealing directly with the rotating assembly. Fortunately it is another urban myth with no basis in fact. The fact is our pulleys have the opposite effect on engine bearings. The combination of tight tolerances, precise quality control, perfect balance, and dramatic weight loss versus the stock pulleys reduces stress loads on your engine, extending the service life of your engine. Engine bearing problems are purely associated to poor engine maintenance, use of heavier than factory recommended oils, improper engine building practices (which includes poor balancing), excessively revving of engines when they are cold, and owners expecting their factory oil pumps to handle engine power outputs beyond 3, 4, even 5+ times the stock power levels. Top
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[Shag Wagon]

That has changed my opinion a little bit. Im sure somebody here will argue...but there is nothing wrong with that.

[jhoff]

i had a megan racing underdrive pulley on my da and when i slowed down the cars lights got dim

[cloudasc]

i had a megan racing underdrive pulley on my da and when i slowed down the cars lights got dim

With the stock camshaft, the idle is low, and underdriving makes your alternator spin slower, thus not providing as much power as it would with stock diameter pulleys. If you had a semi-aggressive cam that requires a high rpm to idle, your headlights dimming when coming to a stop most likely wouldn't be an issue anymore, and you gain the benefit of added hp from the underdriving not spinning your accessories as much. That i believe is the application for the underdriving series.

[prNonVtec4u]

i dont trust these things whatsoever. had a full set b4 and chugged it in da garbage after my 1st oil pump took a shit. not 2 mention electrical system undercharges wit these. pure waste.

my 2 cents from previous experience.

[prNonVtec4u]

btw... hp gain is TRUELY not worth it.

[cloudasc]

don't you need one of these for the cb7 racing traction bars?

You would need the "Ultra S" underdrive version of this set to use the traction bars. Which as stated above is meant for semi-built engines that require a high rpm just to idle without dieing.

Either that or find an overdrive pulley for the alternator that when used with the underdrive pulley is equivalent to stock, but then your on your own to find the right belt, and you would lose any of your gains associated with the underdriving of your alternator.

[C91BLX7]

i dont trust these things whatsoever. had a full set b4 and chugged it in da garbage after my 1st oil pump took a shit. not 2 mention electrical system undercharges wit these. pure waste.

my 2 cents from previous experience.

I agree.

[ChIoVnIdCa]

i dont trust these things whatsoever. had a full set b4 and chugged it in da garbage after my 1st oil pump took a shit. not 2 mention electrical system undercharges wit these. pure waste.

my 2 cents from previous experience.

If you read you would see that these are not under drive pulleys.. They are light weight.