Unless the IACV can be disabled through a chipped ecu, you can leave it plugged in a relocate it to keep the ecu happy. I would run the FITV, that's an important 1, IACV isn't that necessary if you have a good base idle.
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The majority of the threads created can appropriately be placed in one of the Performance Tech sub-forums or Technical; and the posting of them here is detrimental to the activity of said forums. If you have any questions about where you need to place your thread PM me or one of the other mods.
For the most part you all have caught on without this post, but there have been a few habitual offenders that forced me to say this.
Everyone will get a couple of warnings from here on out, after that I just start deleting threads.
Again if you have any questions, PM me or one of the other mods.
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Air boost valve block-off
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Originally posted by Granite CB7 View PostUnless the IACV can be disabled through a chipped ecu, you can leave it plugged in a relocate it to keep the ecu happy. I would run the FITV, that's an important 1, IACV isn't that necessary if you have a good base idle.
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Originally posted by Stephen Fry'It's now very common to hear people say, "I'm rather offended by that", as if that gives them certain rights. It's no more than a whine. It has no meaning, it has no purpose, it has no reason to be respected as a phrase. "I'm offended by that." Well, so fucking what?' —Stephen Fry
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Originally posted by HondaFan81 View PostBlocking off the air-starting valve will not make a significant difference in start ups, I know first-hand. It is beneficial to block it off somehow, as it will be the cause for a vacuum leak if you get any aggressive enough aftermarket camshaft. This will result in an inconsistent idle/surging. Less headaches in future, when setting idle with an aftermarket camshaft.My Member's Ride Thread
Bisimoto header before & after dyno
1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.
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Originally posted by KeeleDesign View Post
this is what a oem one looks like that comes on the type s motor.
but you know that, and i am sorry it didn't have any #'s on it for order.My Member's Ride Thread
Bisimoto header before & after dyno
1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.
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Why not scrap the valve and put the plugs in the plenum?
The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
PM me and get it done right!
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so i am basically reading that you don't need and of the extra valves all over the intake manifold. let me know if i am wrong.
The EGR is not necessary, The IACV is meant to up the idle if you do things that put more load on the motor(rolling windows, turning the wheel when stopped, etc.)
the FITV is for??? what would happen if it was removed? sorry if i am repeating a questions already answered.
and all you need to do is buy/make block off plates for all of these and your fine?
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Originally posted by Flatline View Postso i am basically reading that you don't need and of the extra valves all over the intake manifold. let me know if i am wrong.
The EGR is not necessary, The IACV is meant to up the idle if you do things that put more load on the motor(rolling windows, turning the wheel when stopped, etc.)
the FITV is for??? what would happen if it was removed? sorry if i am repeating a questions already answered.
and all you need to do is buy/make block off plates for all of these and your fine?
Air Boost and FIV no problem, just remove them and reinstall them with a solid gasket cut from a roll of gasket material. That's the easiest way, but plates are the way to go. After you block the FIV (under the throttle body), pull the coolant lines from it and install 1 line that bypasses the throttle body..keeps heat out of the intake air.
EGR doesn't know when it's blocked as long as you leave vacuum and wiring hooked to the valve. Tuned P28s and P72s make EGR and knock sensor removal easy. The EGR system can throw hot, dirty exhaust into the intake, and even cause a misfire if clogged badly enough. You also don't need the evap system's gas-fume injection into the throttle body. Aftermarket throttle bodies don't usually use them.
You also do not need the box and solenoid that are mounted over the transmission, with the hose running to the intake tube.
The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
PM me and get it done right!
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Originally posted by lucid View PostWhy not scrap the valve and put the plugs in the plenum?
Next time I remove the plenum though I'll probably carry it to a welder and have the holes welded shut and ground/sanded smooth. The best option IMO.My Member's Ride Thread
Bisimoto header before & after dyno
1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.
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Originally posted by Flatline View Postso i am basically reading that you don't need and of the extra valves all over the intake manifold. let me know if i am wrong.
The EGR is not necessary, The IACV is meant to up the idle if you do things that put more load on the motor(rolling windows, turning the wheel when stopped, etc.)
the FITV is for??? what would happen if it was removed? sorry if i am repeating a questions already answered.
and all you need to do is buy/make block off plates for all of these and your fine?My Member's Ride Thread
Bisimoto header before & after dyno
1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.
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Originally posted by Flatline View Postexactly what i was thinking.
Lucid. You sir are the man right now. thanks you very much
Forgot to mention if the FI(T)V will make your idle surge when it goes bad.
I have no FIV, and a P28 mapped for my H22 that does a great job handling my idle. It will get down below freezing around here...it was close last night. My ride still starts and idles up around 1200rpm until it warms or I tap the gas. The valve just lets more air in to idle higher, so in the event of a low rpm idle/starting problem, I would just touch the throttle a bit. In my case, the IACValve does what it needs to to keep the RPM around 800.
The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
PM me and get it done right!
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Originally posted by 19dabeast85 View PostWell until I find a block-off plate or make one, this should do! I had an extra boost valve laying around and found some 3/8" x 24 plugs hidden in my tool box and......
Threaded in very snugly with blue RTV on the threads to seal and lock them! It's raining and nasty today but I'll get it installed soon.
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Umm...it says he used 3/8" x 24 right?
The H22 Sleeper Sedan, updated 8/14
After 4 months down...It's back! and tucked.
Need a Swap or some work done in the DC/MD/VA/WV area?
PM me and get it done right!
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