I have a 92 accord lx 4door sedan with the 2.2 fuel injected engine... what are the valve lash specs and procedure for setting them. Also.. is this done with a warm or cold engine. thanks!
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I did this not long ago on my F22a4. Same specs.
intake .010"
exhaust .012"
Do this valve lash adjustment with engine cold (100 deg F or less)Remove spark plug boots, you can remove the spark plugs to make it easier to turn the crank by hand. Remove valve cover, be careful with gasket if you're going to reuse it (or get new). Remove distributor cap to get a visual on the rotor. Jack up front of car (2 jackstands needed) enough to get tires off ground. Remove front-driver wheel. You will notice a hole in the plastic fenderliner that has access to the crank pulley bolt (19mm). Use a 1/2" wratchet and 6" extension or so. Turn the crank in counter-clockwise direction (natural engine motion), until you see the backside of the cam pulley with the ARROW mark pointing up in 12-oclock position...then look to see if your rotor is at # 1 spark plug terminal and check the flywheel hole (pull flywheel peek-hole plug) and see if the WHITE line is in-line with the block pointer in there). If it all don't match up, keep turning the crank until you have the ARROW on back of cam hear at 12-oclock again, then check again. This is TDC on compression stroke of # 1 piston.
Then, go check valve lash on both the intake and exhaust valves on just the # 1 cylinder. Set them accordingly, 2 intake and 2 exhaust valves. Then, turn the crank 180 degrees in counterclockwise direcdtion and the cam pulley will have the ARROW on the backside of it pointing toward the exhaust manifold. This is TDC at # 3 cylinder. Now check/adjust the # 2 cylinder intake & exhaust valves.
Turn crank 180 deg again. Cam pulley ARROW pointing down at 6-oclock now. This is # 4 TDC. Check & adjust.
Turn crank 180 deg again. Cam pulley ARROW pointing toward intake manifold now. This is # 2 TDC. Check & adjust.
You will need a feeler-gauge, flathead screw driver and 10mm combo wrench (or 12mm...crap I forget on that). You'll figure that out. I'm leaning on 10mm.
To adjust the valve lash...put the flathead scewdriver onto the set screw, then hold the nut that's around the set screw with the 10mm combo wrench. Then, loosen the nut, while holding screw in place. Loosen the screw until you can slip the feeler gauge (set to either .010" or .012") and when you can slide it back and forth with a slight drag...then HOLD the screw in that exact spot, while you tighten the nut with combo wrench. Re-check your valve lash because as you tighten the nut, you may have set it a lil tighter..if you let the screw move. It's a job where you wish you had 3 hands, but you can manage. I was glad this was a 4 cylinder is all i kept saying to myself. When you set the nut, make sure you tighten it good...real snug, but not like red-faced about to take a crap in ur pants scenario.
Torque the valve cover nuts back or just go by feel...it's 7 lb-ft or 84 in-lbs I believe. Reconnect everything. Make sure you remove all tools (including the wratchet on the crank bolt & put wheel back on and set to ground) and reconnect everything back, etc before you start ur engine. Don't get ahead of urself. Double check if you have to.
*EDITED to 1-3-4-2 firing order, I had a brain fart*Last edited by HondaFan81; 12-12-2004, 11:43 AM. -
Great writeup^^^.
Does anyone have the specs for a F22B or H23A1 engine, or would it be the same?
JayHittin Switches - Draggin XhaustAlways Under ConstructionComment
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You are right about turning the crank 180 deg. each time, but the valve adjusting sequence is the same as the firing order 1-3-4-2.Originally posted by HondaFan81
I did this not long ago on my F22a4. Same specs.
Then, turn the crank 180 degrees in counterclockwise direcdtion and the cam pulley will have the ARROW on the backside of it pointing toward the exhaust manifold. This is TDC at # 2 cylinder. Now check/adjust the # 2 cylinder intake & exhaust valves.
Turn crank 180 deg again. Cam pulley ARROW pointing down at 6-oclock now. This is # 3 TDC. Check & adjust.
Turn crank 180 deg again. Cam pulley ARROW pointing toward intake manifold now. This is # 4 TDC. Check & adjust.
With the arrow at the 12-o'clock postiton, adjust valves in #1 cyl.
When the arrow is facing the front of the engine, #3 cylinder is at TDC. When the arrow is at 6-o'clock, then #4 cyl is at TDC, and likewise, arrow facing the rear, adjust #2.Comment
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do you guys know how much it usually cost to get ur valves adjusted? and would i need different specs cause soon i will be installin a delta 260 cam in my f22a92 DA9 // 93 D21 4x4 // 92 CB7Comment
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It cost me like $80. The specs will be different.
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lmao...that's what I meant...sorry for the incorrect info, but the overall process is correct.Originally posted by cmrvi1
You are right about turning the crank 180 deg. each time, but the valve adjusting sequence is the same as the firing order 1-3-4-2.
With the arrow at the 12-o'clock postiton, adjust valves in #1 cyl.
When the arrow is facing the front of the engine, #3 cylinder is at TDC. When the arrow is at 6-o'clock, then #4 cyl is at TDC, and likewise, arrow facing the rear, adjust #2.
1-3-4-2 is the correct order, my bad...good eye...that's what I did when I did it, so no...I didn't do it wrong, just wrote it wrong bleh.Comment
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I believe the Delta valve lash specs are tighter than stock, however I forget what they are exactly. I recall for the 272 regrind, both intake & exhaust were below .010" I think.Originally posted by LX Rida
do you guys know how much it usually cost to get ur valves adjusted? and would i need different specs cause soon i will be installin a delta 260 cam in my f22a
Anyways, give Delta Camshaft a call and ask them. Talk to Scott.
www.deltacam.com for the contact infoComment
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bump for f22b specs.......Originally posted by akkordlayinkitI hate thieves!Comment
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I think im just gonna get honda to do this in the spring, cause i have no way of jacking her up on the front.
"You've done more threatening prescription drugs..."
"the character of a man can be judged by how he takes his criticism"
"Quoting yourself is like, masturbation" -StarchlandComment
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For the F22b, since it's supposedly the same/similar head as the H23a1, if we could find a DIY or online manual link for a valve lash adjustment, we'd be set.
I found one for a H22a, so it's something. I'll post back if I find an actual H23a1.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=618786
DIY: Valve adjustment tool, more necessary for DOHC heads, cuts valve lash adjustment time down.
http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=557944
H22 valve lash specs (I know, but it should be same/similar):
.006-.007" on the intake
.007-.008" on the exhaustLast edited by HondaFan81; 01-16-2005, 05:18 AM.Comment
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this is a quote of a post submitted by zigenballz on accordtuner.com
ZigenBallZ
Bump for something I left out earlier...
H23a1 valve lash/clearance
Prelude, 2.3i
Valve clearance - inlet: 0.07-0.11 c mm (cold)
Valve clearance - exhaust: 0.15-0.19 c mm (cold)
Should work for F22B DOHC as well as F20A DOHC...
thank you sir!!!!!!!!!I hate thieves!Comment
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valve lash adjustment finished on my f22b!
used a 12mm deep socket hammered into the closed end of a 5/8 wrench and a regular flat head screwdriver.
set intake between 0.003 and 0.004
set exhaust between 0.006 and 0.007
which equals the numbers i posted above. word of advice take your time, check, check, and recheck because every time you touch it, your clearance will change. my valves are now much quieter
good luck!
I hate thieves!Comment
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Thanks for the specs yo, I'm going to copy & paste dis shiiiOriginally posted by iamanonymous
Also, props to Zigen for the original post, I trust him, so I'll take it as the truth.
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