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Question bout cams

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    #16
    lol ok.

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      #17
      Originally posted by chrischhorn
      Fixed
      h23 mani ftw.

      spoonsportsaddict

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        #18
        What about taking the hole head off of a a6 and puttin it on a a1. I think i would need an pt6 ecu to do that. Would that be better than just takin an a6 cam and puttin it in my a1 head?
        Last edited by LowNknoxville; 05-28-2008, 06:12 PM.

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          #19
          Originally posted by wed3k
          if you stick to say a delta 272, id say you are fine but are prone to coil bind and increased chance to fatiguing the valve springs.
          Not true.
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            #20
            Originally posted by wed3k
            its still somthing you should look out for. you bring the rocker arm assembly closer because they grind the back of the lobe.

            id still add the cam gear to dial in different amounts of timing.
            Cam gear is pointless on core regrind cam. Set it at TDC 0 deg, as stock, makes best power. Dyno graph in red project thread, first page. I proved this on my red Accord dyno. Also, a single piece cam gear like stock is better than a 2-piece aftermarket that could slip. So stay stock gam gear is my suggestion from first-hand experience.
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              #21
              Originally posted by LowNknoxville
              What about taking the hole head off of a a6 and puttin it on a a1. I think i would need an pt6 ecu to do that. Would that be better than just takin an a6 cam and puttin it in my a1 head?
              Why introduce a potentially bad head and if your original head gasket is fine, then you have to replace that now with a head swap. Just swap the camshaft, smarter and cheaper (assuming you have no existing head or HG issues).
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                #22
                sound good. I dint think about the head gasket . PEACE

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by HondaFan81
                  Not true.
                  explain, a lot of people assume. i like to take precautionary measures because i hate doing things twice.
                  I <3 G60.

                  0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by GenDBlade
                    lol ok.
                    Maybe this will help:

                    As a general concept, all the engine does is pump air. So, the faster you can get MORE air in and out, the more power you can make. Intake, throttle body, manifold, camshaft, headers, and exhaust all matter. For idle results you would do tons of research pair everything very carefully together. However, many people on the board have lots of experience and some with dyno results to back it up. Look around and see what has worked for other people, but don't install any one piece and expect massive gains. For best results, you have to do it all. And do it well!


                    Proud owner of the only JJDM full 2.5" catback exhaust!

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by LowNknoxville
                      sound good. I dint think about the head gasket . PEACE

                      like HondaFan said. it would be better to just get the a6 cam, IM, and a header(stock a4 or an aftermarket one.) its less trouble tring to get the timing belt off, the head gasket replaced, all that coolant and oil. by the time your done you might as well bought an F22a6. lol. just swap the IM, cam, and a decent header for a little more pep
                      Last edited by Shadow1; 05-29-2008, 10:37 PM.

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by wed3k
                        explain, a lot of people assume. i like to take precautionary measures because i hate doing things twice.
                        I have been running a Delta 272 F22ax cam regrind on my red project for 55K miles now. I have no problems associated with my valvetrain. I have found the more I rev it, the sooner I need to do valve lash adjustments is all from the stock 15K mile check/adjust interval. If I rev it up to 7K consistently, I'll do valve lash at 12K miles.

                        Now, when I had my F22 head ported, my valvetrain had 110K miles on it. I had the machine shop check the valve springs & valvetrain, replace what is necessary. Fortunately, all was good. So if possible I'd stick with a lower mileage valvetrain to get more life out of it.

                        I use .009" INT/ .011" EXH valve lash specs, same as on Bisimoto cams.
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                          #27
                          I've ran the 272 and 282 on the sohc f22 without any coil bind problems.

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                            #28
                            Realisticly coilbind shouldn't happen on a reground cam. Untill the cam is welded to add a larger lobe then ground you shouldn't get enough lift to make the coils bind.

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                              #29
                              What's the biggest you can go on a regrind without welding more onto the lobes?
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                                #30
                                cams...hmmm I'm thinking about doing this since my A6 cam has some scoring on it, the machine shop guy said. I'm getting a 3 angle valve job done as well as new valve seals and stuff. Would a 272 benefit me? and where can I get them from? and how much do they usually run? i'm already in about 600 for this blown headgasket, so I don't have TOO much more money to spend.

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