p12 vs pt6 and f22a6 cam and intake mani

[foamypirate]

well i thought that cooler temps ment more HP. wtf? lol

Higher combustion temperatures cause more heat and more rapid expansion of gases, which = more power. That is why when a car is running lean, it often produces more power.

The benefit to a "Cold Air Intake" is that cooler air is more dense, so you can actually inject more fuel without causing a rich condition, thus producing more power.

[visualpoet]

Okay, I concede that vacuum actuated IAB = fail. What about C91BLX7's suggestion to use a cheap shift light? I've never had a shift light, so I don't know if they stay on past your shift point, or do they turn off after you pass it, like in drag racing on NFSU? (don't laugh, it's my only point of reference for shift lights.)

my main thing is it shouldnt really matter. if you have a few mods to help with better acceleration the loss in tourqe from the IABs opening up should get canceled out right?

Is it possible that the increase in upper end power could compensate for the loss of low end torque? If so, I'll gladly have a higher 60 ft or 330 ft time if it means a lower 1/4 mile time.

At what point should I start thinking about getting a tuned ECU? Sure it's cool to have, but when will it really be worth the money (if it's soon, then HondaBob from Full Throttle Performance Racing is tuning ECUs for $50 (including the chip!!) in northern Ohio this week and I should go see him quickly!)

[foamypirate]

Is it possible that the increase in upper end power could compensate for the loss of low end torque? If so, I'll gladly have a higher 60 ft or 330 ft time if it means a lower 1/4 mile time.

That is the whole point of the IAB system. It is there to give more low end torque WITHOUT taking away from top end power.

You'll still have the top end with the vacuum IABs, but you'll lose your low end.

[visualpoet]

okay, I understand that, but I'm not sure if my f22a1 has the right wiring to actuate the IABs, like Shadow1 said earlier. Would the shift light trick work?

[foamypirate]

If you use the PT6 ECU, you just need to run a wire from pin A17 to the ground on the IAB solenoid plug, and find a 12v ignition power source (black/yellow wire in the engine bay, should be one near the dizzy) and run that to the power on the IAB solenoid plug.

If it helps, our IACVs use the same plug as the IAB box. I just took one off an Accord in the junkyard.

And yes, the shift light should work as long as you wire it properly.

[visualpoet]

Hmmm... Got some thinking to do. I appreciate the help. You'll probably be hearing more questions from me in the coming weeks.

[foamypirate]

Feel free to throw them my way.

[visualpoet]

Okay, I've been running the p12 for a couple of weeks, getting in some runs on the accelerometer when I can find the space, lol. Instead of getting the rumored ten ponies, I've had between 8 and 15! My high hp run so far has been 133 hp. I'm guessing that the p12 on a stock motor is ten ponies, but with the bolt ons, it increases it even more. I just finished bolting the catback together today, so I'm really looking forward to making some more runs.

On a side note; I've decided that the slight difference in power increase from the a6 pieces isn't worth it to me in relation to the wrench time and expenses for new gaskets, timing gun, inch/lb torque wrench, so I'll be selling them off in the classifieds.