Welcome to Mrx’s wild tuning adventures!!!
Well folks I finally got the turbo setup put on a couple of days ago. But because I’m using a chipped ecu with a free software program called Uberdata (and Crome at times) I’ve decided to basically make this a journal so you can see what the tuning process involves. I’ll be posting up tips, procedures, and helpful info on how to custom tune a turbo car or any car for that matter. Before I begin I’d like to start off by thanking wikkedv16, zigenballz, homemadeturbo, Stephen, and all the free software programmers for making this possible (and anyone else who would like their names input
).
Ok, to start off my car doesn’t like me and fights me on everything I do to it so as I make progress something always goes wrong. I’m getting used to it and so will you lol. So don’t let my bad luck get you discouraged on chipped ecu’s. Testing and tuning will be done with a p05 ecu. This ecu is from any 92-95 civic vx. The ecu works fine on any obd1 car but the ecu does not have an 02 sensor heater and will give a CEL code 41 (02 heater sensor) if a transistor is not soldered into Q31 (that fact will come into play a little later). Its not harmful to not have the transistor seeing as you can just disable the 02 heater on uberdata and crome anyways. If I had the chance to go back I would definitely have bought a p06 ecu from the 92-95 civic dx and lx’s so I wouldn’t have to worry about the 02 heater thing. Since I am turbo’d now I’m using the dsm 450cc injectors and for tuning I have a Zeitronix wideband 02 sensor and data logging software.
The major problem with custom tuning the cb7 is the f-series and h-series engines have oddball ecu’s and its very very difficult to get a basemap for the engines. So when I finally finish this map atleast the f-series owners will have a more public and solid starting point. So yea I’m the guinea pig. Nevertheless our goal is to create a fully custom map to run as close to stock as possible, has a beautiful a/f ratio at idle, partial throttle, and WOT. And doesn’t waste too much gas. This’ll take a while. I’ll be creating three maps. One will be a bone stock map, another will a basemap for the turbo accords, and the last will be the map I personally use on my car. Estimated time frame for completion?…don’t rush me!
My first map (will post later) is a mix between about 4 separate maps I’ve come across. It’s a Frankenstein map composed of bits and pieces from one that zigen made, one wikked16 made, a h22 map I found on the uberdata website, and a stock LS integra map.
Before I started putting on the turbo setup I started testing maps on the p05 ecu to try to get a feel for what was going on. My first map was the stock p06 map. It took a little longer than stock to start the car under this map, once it started it idled a little rough at about 300 rpm, and took forever to reach even 2000 rpm at WOT…literally like 10 full seconds from idle. By this time wikkedv16 had created a couple of maps to test out while I was still n/a. I tested just about every map that uberdata came with and all of his. But the same problem persisted: car wouldn’t start, bad idle or the car couldn’t hold an idle for more than a couple of seconds, and really slow revs. By the end of the day the combustion chambers were just flooded with fuel from all of the attempted starting. So I plugged the stock ecu back in and after a couple cranks she started up and cleared out the cylinders for me so I could try again the next day. I’d begun to understand uber and how to use it so I started modifying maps on my own and sure enough I got one of them to work. It’s idle was ok (a bit rich and a bit high), but the revs were a lot faster (still not stock). I modified the stock p06 map actually because it was one of the only maps that could hold an idle even tho it was low.
First I opened up the bin highlighted the entire “fuel lo” map and added about 5% of fuel. Then, highlighted the first 4 or 5 columns and rows and added another 5% or so (adjust accordingly). In the fuel lo matrix it seems like 3 rows down and the 1st and 2nd columns across is how you control the idle which will now be referred to as the “idle plot”. Adjusting the idle plot seemed to have the most effect on idle quality. So adjust that about 1 point at a time. If the car immediately dies after it starts or idles too low then it needs more fuel in the boxes that surround the idle plot. Adding fuel on the first 3 columns and first row helps keep the car from dying. Most of the maps I’ve seen start off with the first values being a bit higher than the idle plot and points further into the map. An attempt to save the motor from dying I believe. After I did that everything seemed to be progressing smoothly. It was still really slow on the open road because the ignition timing was off but it was a start, right? I can’t remember which map it is now by the way lol. But the important thing is I learned how and where to modify these maps. Definitely label your maps in the most non-confusing manner possible. Make notes about each program you write and what you changed between say version 1, version 2, and so on. Have an extra set of spark plugs ready and even a battery charger if you expect to be doing a lot of cranking.
3 nights ago I got the 450cc injectors in and started the car with the stock ecu. It started up fine but idled like a mustang with a lobey camshaft. That’s ok just needed to make sure the car started. So 2 nights ago I put in the chipped ecu to control the 450cc’s. The car started fine and my project was finally somewhat of a success. Really rich across all of the power band but still started and idled somewhat ok. The car was still on jackstands so I put in the wideband 02, hooked up the wires, and my laptop. All of a sudden the car dies immediately after I start the engine and continues to until I give up. Ok, fine…just for kicks lets toss in the stock ecu . Car starts beautifully…wtf? Its not excessively rich during idle. The stock 02 sensor wasn’t even attached anymore just the wideband. And since I have a laptop I was able to see the a/f ratios on cold idle all the way to warm idle.
They started in the mid 14’s and gradually dropped down to the low 11’s. 11’s is pretty rich but I wasn’t able to smell any unburned gas. But since the car the the whole point of the project is to get the chipped ecu controlling the car…I pulled the stock ecu back out. And put the stock 02 sensor back in. The combination of the chipped p05 and the wideband didn’t mix well but the p05 and the stock 02 work fine. This may be because the lack of the 02 heater in the p05 ecu circuitry as previously mentioned in the beginning. I’ll have to get another 02 bung welded in the exhaust piping so I can have the stock and wideband sensors in at the same time. Tossed in a map and it held and idle and revved fine. The map was already rich for boost just in case I actually got to see a psi or 2. So…test run!!! Upon backing the car up it was giving me a little bit of grief as in it was really rich even at partial throttle. Rich to the point that it would stumble up the rpms and even fall at points. I was only going to the end of the street but decided to go all the way out the neighborhood to the Wal-mart a mile away. I couldn’t even rev the engine past about 3K rpm while in gear. No matter the amount of throttle I gave it the car was just too rich.
Once I got out of the neighborhood and about a ¼ mile from walmart I went WOT from about 20 mph…and went absolutely nowhere fast lol…I did hear the bov pop off tho lol. I think that’s when I blew off a charge pipe tho. The rest of the ride there was with my hazards on cause the amount of fuel being dumped into the engine was amazing. The car was barely driveable and I couldn’t get past about 30 mph or so. Pulled into the parking lot and the car shut off. After a couple of attempts it started. But there was still too much fuel being dumped. Its like it was drowning the engine and the only way to keep it alive was to heel toe and never let the throttle plate completely close. Found a parking spot and the car died right when I let off the throttle. I still had the laptop with me and the chip burner so I figured I’d just burn a much leaner map…little did I know I had about 10 minutes left of battery life on the laptop. And I forgot the charger! Lol…so I burned a chip quickly and the laptop shut off a couple of seconds after the chip finished.
Got out the car to check things out while my g/f went into wal-mart. I’d blown off one of the charge pipes but everything else was fine...easy fix since I never put the front bumper back on anyways. The new chip was a little better but the idle wouldn’t hold itself up anymore. So I’d just have to heel toe the entire way home to keep from stalling. Before we got into the neighborhood we noticed that accelerating from about 2000-2300 rpm was fine and felt good…for a couple of seconds anything above that drowned the engine so I tried to coast at 2100 rpm or so. We made it into the neighborhood and I got bold lol…decided to go WOT again at about 25 mph in 2nd gear…I stomp the gas pedal and the engine drowns and stumbles up the rpm and then…BAMMMMM!!! This HUUUUUUUGE backfire lights up the night sky lmao!!! I saw it while I was looking forward it was so bright. My g/f thought it came out the front of the engine right by the front passenger side tire but it was just the reflection of the explosion in the side mirror and rear view mirror. Took it easy on the way home and let off the throttle b4 I got to my house…car died of course b4 I turned off the engine. Put in a different chip and it was able to atleast start better than the last chip.
Well folks I finally got the turbo setup put on a couple of days ago. But because I’m using a chipped ecu with a free software program called Uberdata (and Crome at times) I’ve decided to basically make this a journal so you can see what the tuning process involves. I’ll be posting up tips, procedures, and helpful info on how to custom tune a turbo car or any car for that matter. Before I begin I’d like to start off by thanking wikkedv16, zigenballz, homemadeturbo, Stephen, and all the free software programmers for making this possible (and anyone else who would like their names input
).Ok, to start off my car doesn’t like me and fights me on everything I do to it so as I make progress something always goes wrong. I’m getting used to it and so will you lol. So don’t let my bad luck get you discouraged on chipped ecu’s. Testing and tuning will be done with a p05 ecu. This ecu is from any 92-95 civic vx. The ecu works fine on any obd1 car but the ecu does not have an 02 sensor heater and will give a CEL code 41 (02 heater sensor) if a transistor is not soldered into Q31 (that fact will come into play a little later). Its not harmful to not have the transistor seeing as you can just disable the 02 heater on uberdata and crome anyways. If I had the chance to go back I would definitely have bought a p06 ecu from the 92-95 civic dx and lx’s so I wouldn’t have to worry about the 02 heater thing. Since I am turbo’d now I’m using the dsm 450cc injectors and for tuning I have a Zeitronix wideband 02 sensor and data logging software.
The major problem with custom tuning the cb7 is the f-series and h-series engines have oddball ecu’s and its very very difficult to get a basemap for the engines. So when I finally finish this map atleast the f-series owners will have a more public and solid starting point. So yea I’m the guinea pig. Nevertheless our goal is to create a fully custom map to run as close to stock as possible, has a beautiful a/f ratio at idle, partial throttle, and WOT. And doesn’t waste too much gas. This’ll take a while. I’ll be creating three maps. One will be a bone stock map, another will a basemap for the turbo accords, and the last will be the map I personally use on my car. Estimated time frame for completion?…don’t rush me!
My first map (will post later) is a mix between about 4 separate maps I’ve come across. It’s a Frankenstein map composed of bits and pieces from one that zigen made, one wikked16 made, a h22 map I found on the uberdata website, and a stock LS integra map.
Before I started putting on the turbo setup I started testing maps on the p05 ecu to try to get a feel for what was going on. My first map was the stock p06 map. It took a little longer than stock to start the car under this map, once it started it idled a little rough at about 300 rpm, and took forever to reach even 2000 rpm at WOT…literally like 10 full seconds from idle. By this time wikkedv16 had created a couple of maps to test out while I was still n/a. I tested just about every map that uberdata came with and all of his. But the same problem persisted: car wouldn’t start, bad idle or the car couldn’t hold an idle for more than a couple of seconds, and really slow revs. By the end of the day the combustion chambers were just flooded with fuel from all of the attempted starting. So I plugged the stock ecu back in and after a couple cranks she started up and cleared out the cylinders for me so I could try again the next day. I’d begun to understand uber and how to use it so I started modifying maps on my own and sure enough I got one of them to work. It’s idle was ok (a bit rich and a bit high), but the revs were a lot faster (still not stock). I modified the stock p06 map actually because it was one of the only maps that could hold an idle even tho it was low.
First I opened up the bin highlighted the entire “fuel lo” map and added about 5% of fuel. Then, highlighted the first 4 or 5 columns and rows and added another 5% or so (adjust accordingly). In the fuel lo matrix it seems like 3 rows down and the 1st and 2nd columns across is how you control the idle which will now be referred to as the “idle plot”. Adjusting the idle plot seemed to have the most effect on idle quality. So adjust that about 1 point at a time. If the car immediately dies after it starts or idles too low then it needs more fuel in the boxes that surround the idle plot. Adding fuel on the first 3 columns and first row helps keep the car from dying. Most of the maps I’ve seen start off with the first values being a bit higher than the idle plot and points further into the map. An attempt to save the motor from dying I believe. After I did that everything seemed to be progressing smoothly. It was still really slow on the open road because the ignition timing was off but it was a start, right? I can’t remember which map it is now by the way lol. But the important thing is I learned how and where to modify these maps. Definitely label your maps in the most non-confusing manner possible. Make notes about each program you write and what you changed between say version 1, version 2, and so on. Have an extra set of spark plugs ready and even a battery charger if you expect to be doing a lot of cranking.
3 nights ago I got the 450cc injectors in and started the car with the stock ecu. It started up fine but idled like a mustang with a lobey camshaft. That’s ok just needed to make sure the car started. So 2 nights ago I put in the chipped ecu to control the 450cc’s. The car started fine and my project was finally somewhat of a success. Really rich across all of the power band but still started and idled somewhat ok. The car was still on jackstands so I put in the wideband 02, hooked up the wires, and my laptop. All of a sudden the car dies immediately after I start the engine and continues to until I give up. Ok, fine…just for kicks lets toss in the stock ecu . Car starts beautifully…wtf? Its not excessively rich during idle. The stock 02 sensor wasn’t even attached anymore just the wideband. And since I have a laptop I was able to see the a/f ratios on cold idle all the way to warm idle.
They started in the mid 14’s and gradually dropped down to the low 11’s. 11’s is pretty rich but I wasn’t able to smell any unburned gas. But since the car the the whole point of the project is to get the chipped ecu controlling the car…I pulled the stock ecu back out. And put the stock 02 sensor back in. The combination of the chipped p05 and the wideband didn’t mix well but the p05 and the stock 02 work fine. This may be because the lack of the 02 heater in the p05 ecu circuitry as previously mentioned in the beginning. I’ll have to get another 02 bung welded in the exhaust piping so I can have the stock and wideband sensors in at the same time. Tossed in a map and it held and idle and revved fine. The map was already rich for boost just in case I actually got to see a psi or 2. So…test run!!! Upon backing the car up it was giving me a little bit of grief as in it was really rich even at partial throttle. Rich to the point that it would stumble up the rpms and even fall at points. I was only going to the end of the street but decided to go all the way out the neighborhood to the Wal-mart a mile away. I couldn’t even rev the engine past about 3K rpm while in gear. No matter the amount of throttle I gave it the car was just too rich.
Once I got out of the neighborhood and about a ¼ mile from walmart I went WOT from about 20 mph…and went absolutely nowhere fast lol…I did hear the bov pop off tho lol. I think that’s when I blew off a charge pipe tho. The rest of the ride there was with my hazards on cause the amount of fuel being dumped into the engine was amazing. The car was barely driveable and I couldn’t get past about 30 mph or so. Pulled into the parking lot and the car shut off. After a couple of attempts it started. But there was still too much fuel being dumped. Its like it was drowning the engine and the only way to keep it alive was to heel toe and never let the throttle plate completely close. Found a parking spot and the car died right when I let off the throttle. I still had the laptop with me and the chip burner so I figured I’d just burn a much leaner map…little did I know I had about 10 minutes left of battery life on the laptop. And I forgot the charger! Lol…so I burned a chip quickly and the laptop shut off a couple of seconds after the chip finished.
Got out the car to check things out while my g/f went into wal-mart. I’d blown off one of the charge pipes but everything else was fine...easy fix since I never put the front bumper back on anyways. The new chip was a little better but the idle wouldn’t hold itself up anymore. So I’d just have to heel toe the entire way home to keep from stalling. Before we got into the neighborhood we noticed that accelerating from about 2000-2300 rpm was fine and felt good…for a couple of seconds anything above that drowned the engine so I tried to coast at 2100 rpm or so. We made it into the neighborhood and I got bold lol…decided to go WOT again at about 25 mph in 2nd gear…I stomp the gas pedal and the engine drowns and stumbles up the rpm and then…BAMMMMM!!! This HUUUUUUUGE backfire lights up the night sky lmao!!! I saw it while I was looking forward it was so bright. My g/f thought it came out the front of the engine right by the front passenger side tire but it was just the reflection of the explosion in the side mirror and rear view mirror. Took it easy on the way home and let off the throttle b4 I got to my house…car died of course b4 I turned off the engine. Put in a different chip and it was able to atleast start better than the last chip.
. Yes I’ll post pix of the maps I’m using and keep modifying.
. 
There's still a lot of Q's... 
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