Lights still dimming when bass hits

[accordme93]

Well at my lunch break I took my ride down to the guy that rebuilt the alternator. He threw the voltmeter on there and sure enough it was charging about 14.4 or so at idle. I then told him that my battery was 6+ years old. He laughed and said change that thing now!

Now I thought batterys lasted 6 years or so. He said 3, 4 at the most. The battery that is in there is a plain jane Interstate.

Hmm, guess it's time to get a new one!

Now I need recommendations.

P.S. I plan to upgrade to a 500w monoblock amp. So take that into consideration.

[hpaccord91]

Well at my lunch break I took my ride down to the guy that rebuilt the alternator. He threw the voltmeter on there and sure enough it was charging about 14.4 or so at idle. I then told him that my battery was 6+ years old. He laughed and said change that thing now!

Now I thought batterys lasted 6 years or so. He said 3, 4 at the most. The battery that is in there is a plain jane Interstate.

Hmm, guess it's time to get a new one!

Now I need recommendations.

P.S. I plan to upgrade to a 500w monoblock amp. So take that into consideration.

like said up above get a gold series die hard battery but thats just my opinion
no to expensive has nice warrenty and is over all a great battery and great price and doesnt put a hole in the pocket like the yellow top or red top battery go for quality

[sonikaccord]

If you can find a cheap yellow top, go for it.

[4GAccordH22]

I would recommend the Optima battery. Either a red top or a yellow top. Check out Optima's website and look at the specs for the 2 differest batteries and choose the one that best suits your needs.

I went with the red top since I don't have the subs and amps and didn't need the yellow top.

[mondojackal]

Yeh, caps= teh lose. Upgrade your wiring and grounds like the man said. Upgrade your alternator if you're really crankin it.

It's weird for me...sometimes the lights dim and sometimes they don't.

all depends on what rpm the motor is at at "idle" and what else is being run off of the belts, and the electrical system..

[mondojackal]

its still better than pulling the power straight from the battery where everything else is getting "fed" off of. I was just curious why you guys were not advising this guy to get a cap cause i have one and everyone i know that has a system and everyone i know who installs systems stand behind getting a cap. just my opinion though

nevertheless who gets a cap..its still not the best option out there...it will still cause problems like gloryaccordy said...you still are pulling power out, and not adding any more..

[mondojackal]

I would recommend the Optima battery. Either a red top or a yellow top. Check out Optima's website and look at the specs for the 2 differest batteries and choose the one that best suits your needs.

I went with the red top since I don't have the subs and amps and didn't need the yellow top.

werd...optimas are optimal...

[accordme93]

just asked my buddy's uncle who is a Toyota tech and he said to get an Interstate. I've had good luck with them.

Still I would love an Optima.

And check this out...

So I just got home from working out and I turned down my deck. While the car was idling with the headlights on I turned several things on. Like the heater and then the rear defroster. The rear defroster still sucks the juice bigtime! Now is it normal for it to make such a drain? I mean when i flip it on the all the interior lights dim.

I figured with a healthy alternator I wouldn't have the rear defroster dim problem. But it's still there.

Well I'll see how things go when I slap a new battery in.

[eriemoto.]

a grouding kit may help. if you ground the right things in the engine bay, it will even out the flow of the battery better

[accrdpower]

ok here it is...first upgrade the alt....if u plan on going big with the system (at least 210amp (280 is preferable). if moderate power then get like 180w amp alternator. then get an optima yellow top. AND get a 1 farad capacitor for every 1000w of rms power. they help keep some strain off the electrical system.

the serious audio guys have the caps, a powerful alternator and most of the time several batteries.

[gloryaccordy]

The rear defroster uses a lot of power. When I had my old setup it would make my shizzle make noise...

[92HondaPower]

With a battery as old as yours, you really need to stop looking at the alternator and look at the battery. I change mine every two years, just to be safe, and when I even see a slight dim of lights or anything like that I change it out anyway, especially if I had the car sit long and the battery dies, I never charge. Maybe I'm too picky, but batteries are generally cheap anyway. Better safe than sorry!

[shoxr10]

I agree and somewhat disagree with some of the replies. From what i know, as long as you have a system in your car, you should always:
1. upgrade your grounds
2. change your battery (deep cycle) you don't really have to do this but it helps.....
3. upgrade you altenator to accomodate more amps
4. ADD A CAPASITOR

If one cap doesn't do it, then you know you should look into installing a second battery. These are rules taught at mobile dynamics (school for car audio installation). It doesn't sound like you have anything major so I suggest buying a cap after you change your battery. Or, how about buying the stinger battery with the cap built in........................

As far as the comment about using a cap on old cars, UNIQUE AUTOSPORTS customized a 64 (that's an impala for those who don't know.....lol) and they added a cap. They never do a car without adding a cap because they know this rule. Ask around and you'll see what I'm talking about.

[xfactortype1]

this thread might help

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43500

reguard tom d

[shoxr10]

xfactortype1: those diagrams are the same one that I used when I went to mobile dynamics. That's the point i was trying to make about the cap and electrical system........good work dude