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Do I need a distribution block?

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    Do I need a distribution block?

    I did a battery relocation a while ago and now I'm wanting to go back and do it the right way becasue when I did it I was just trying to get it done. I'm getting a 150A ANL fuse for the main 0 gauge cable that comes to the engine bay but what am I supposed to put when it meets the wires for the fuse box and the starter? I'll be honest. I put connectors on all three wires, and drove a bolt through all of them and put a nut on the other side and wrapped it in half a roll of electrical tape and called it a day. I've heard a that I need a distribution block but all the ones I'm seeing look like they're for independent circuits. Any help would be appreciated. Also, why does it matter what the amperage rating of your battery is if I've got a fuse that's going to blow if I hit 150A? Thanks guys.
    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

    #2
    I'm a little confused as to what you're trying to do...but if there's a line from the battery to something directly, then yeah, go with a distribution block. They should have them at any car audio shop...or if you're really handy you can probably just find the materials and make one. Much safer than electrical tape (TRUST ME)...


    Originally posted by lordoja
    im with you on that one bro! aint nothing beat free food and drinks any day of the week, even if its at a funeral

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      #3
      http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Tsuna...oductDetail.do



      btw you should be fused 6 inchs from the battey and 6 inchs from the distro. So both sides.

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        #4
        Use a distribution block, you should be able to get one that has a 0-gauge in, and multiple 4 or 8-gauge outs on it. Just head to the local stereo shop.

        Also, even if you have a battery with 800 cranking amps, you won't pop the breaker unless all of your equipment combined draws 150 or more amps when running. Turn on the A/C, stereo, all of your lights, and other accessories to check the total amperage draw. Use a volt-meter if you have one to check.

        BTW, you should mount the breaker within a foot or two of the battery in the trunk....if that's where the battery is.
        1992 Accord LX - SOLD

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          #5
          Why cant you just cut the stock power wire and then connect the new power wire to it and run that to the back of the car into the trunk.....do you need to take the old power wire out completely? this is the only part im confused about, is how to connect the power from the trunk battery to the front of the car......i thought you can just splice the old connector off and just attach the 2 wires together....
          1991 Accord LX Coupe - Boosted F22 - 5spd LSD - Shaved Bay - Work VSXX - Recaro SRD

          Member's Ride Page | Video of my CB7, Open Downpipe peelout

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            #6
            I didn't cut them. I just had to put a different connector on because a terminal connector wouldn't mate up witht the ones I used. Your idea is correct.
            My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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              #7
              http://cgi.ebay.com/Audiopipe-0-4-Ga...QQcmdZViewItem

              http://cgi.ebay.com/Stinger-HPM-0-4-...QQcmdZViewItem

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