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    6 1/2 vs 6x9

    Sorry if this has been answered before, i have 91 lx so it should be 6 1/2 all around. my rear speaker is blown and I need to replace it, I heard that the 6x9 speaker pod in EX model can fit on the lx with no moding. my question is for a normal price set around $120 which will let me here more bass the 6 1/2 or 6x9?

    all my amp and sub was stolen so I will not be able to afford new stereo setup just need some music while on the road. Also I have a cheap jensen in-dash player as replacement(no money left) rated at 18wx4 rms with new 2006 rating which is more then jvc, kennwood, pioneer. and max at 65watt(old SAE standard) what wattage range should I buy for rear if it 6 1/2 or 6x9? I would like decent sound without having to crank the volume up to 70% because the speaker wattage is too high for the indash head unit.

    please don't flame on brand it what I can afford at the moment. budget is $150 max.
    90 Accord Coupe LX, Stock JDM H22A Engine 10.6:1 - Stock Automatic LSD MPA1 Trans, JDM P13 Auto ECU + JDM P19 TCU. Tune with Greddy E-Manage Ultimate
    < 317WHP/227WTQ@11psi> B/W S256 turbo, Daily Driving on 93 pump gas - since 2006. Driving Turbocharged CB7 Accord since 2002.

    #2
    if you want bass, get a sub, if you want good sound go for the 6.5" if you really catn afford a sub, get 6x9's for bass, although the sound wuality will suffer.

    given your setup, not flaming, you need to get some cheaper brand speakers that will sound good with the power that you can give them...

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      #3
      infinity all the way...and i still dont buy what your saying about the 6x9 messing up your sound nathan

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        #4
        so 6x9 will have better bass then 6 1/2 ? if so I would need to buy a Ex speaker 6x9 pod, since my LX does not have it. can you really tell the sound diff between the 2 size speaker? and since it an it the head unit with using built on amp(claimed 65w x4 or 18w x4 rms(SAE 2006) should I replace the front door speaker or rear speaker to get better/cleaner sound. all the speaker still OEM stock.
        90 Accord Coupe LX, Stock JDM H22A Engine 10.6:1 - Stock Automatic LSD MPA1 Trans, JDM P13 Auto ECU + JDM P19 TCU. Tune with Greddy E-Manage Ultimate
        < 317WHP/227WTQ@11psi> B/W S256 turbo, Daily Driving on 93 pump gas - since 2006. Driving Turbocharged CB7 Accord since 2002.

        Comment


          #5
          Given a budget of $150 total and you are starting out with OEM speakers all around, the nicest sound will be from disconnecting the rears (even the one that still works) and replace your door speakers.

          However, you seem more concerned with "bass" quantity than overall sound quality, so my answer there is to instead get some 6X9s with appropriate EX adapters.

          Ignore whatever specs may be advertised for any given speaker. Specs do not tell you how good they will sound.

          The best way to know what sounds better than something else is go and listen to some!
          >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by blazen_accord
            so 6x9 will have better bass then 6 1/2 ? if so I would need to buy a Ex speaker 6x9 pod, since my LX does not have it. can you really tell the sound diff between the 2 size speaker? and since it an it the head unit with using built on amp(claimed 65w x4 or 18w x4 rms(SAE 2006) should I replace the front door speaker or rear speaker to get better/cleaner sound. all the speaker still OEM stock.
            6.5", being round, makes pure sine waves, and reproduces them cleanly...while the 6x9 doesn't reproduce them exactly as well as a 6.5" woofer will...also, a 6.5" woofer will not distort as easily as a 6x9 either..given that neither will be amplified, and that you are going for bass, i would stick with some 6x9's...although, if you save your money from buying the pods...then you might be able to afford a small amp to power some more inexpensive speakers..
            when buying speakers, you must buy RMS wattage to RMS wattage to ge the best match...if you go by peak wattage, different manufacturers use different amounts...some go with 2x the RMS wattage for peak power, while some go up to crazy amounts of power that will most definitely not make the speakers sound the best...my point is that if your head unit is only putting out 18-22w RMS (basic RMS wattage range of most head units) and you arent amping it with external amplifier power, then that speaker will sound the best if its wattage matches that of what the head unit powers it with...

            overall, the best sound quality will come not from the most expensive speaker that you can fit in there, but the one best suited to the job..
            Ex-a $200 set of eclipse component speakers will not sound as good as a pair of pioneer 6.5" coaxial drivers...no flaming, let me explain, and read this before you reply....because if the head unit that you have puts out less power than will adequately drive the more expensive speaker, then it wont produce clean sound, or it wont be very loud...either of which is an undesirable situation...you would rather spend less and match what you have..

            given your budget however...i would buy a nicer set of coaxial (have the tweeter inside the woofer cone) 6.5" speakers and either fade the head unit to the front and give more power (volume) to the front speakers, and just leave the rears stock oem...that will be the best sound quality...although if you just have to have bass, then just get 6x9s, although the difference in bass between the 6.5" speaker and the 6x9 woofer wont be that much of a difference...sorry im rather long winded, just tryin to answer all questions before they can be asked..and its better to make an informed decision...

            Comment


              #7
              heres alittle tip to, the 6x9's that you purchase will probably be touching the bar that goes across the top of your trunk. you'll have to cut about an inch of the bar off of each side if you want the 6x9's to sit properly.

              my 3 cents: really i would say just buy some really nice 6 1/2's and you will be satisfied. eventually just put a 10'' or 12'' in the trunk and your car will sound awesome. i put some "total 6x9's" (for those of you who don't know total, they are supposedly a side project of some dude at JL) they sound really good and cost around 140 bucks. I had some quantum 6 and halfs and i think they sounded better.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by CBsevenDX
                heres alittle tip to, the 6x9's that you purchase will probably be touching the bar that goes across the top of your trunk. you'll have to cut about an inch of the bar off of each side if you want the 6x9's to sit properly.

                my 3 cents: really i would say just buy some really nice 6 1/2's and you will be satisfied. eventually just put a 10'' or 12'' in the trunk and your car will sound awesome. i put some "total 6x9's" (for those of you who don't know total, they are supposedly a side project of some dude at JL) they sound really good and cost around 140 bucks. I had some quantum 6 and halfs and i think they sounded better.
                yes if you really want to get into it 6x9's (given the same basic T-S parameters as a 6.5" woofer) will have a higher SPL, while the 6.5" woofer will have a higher SQ...

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by mondojackal
                  yes if you really want to get into it 6x9's (given the same basic T-S parameters as a 6.5" woofer) will have a higher SPL, while the 6.5" woofer will have a higher SQ...

                  thank you for putting it in technical words, my man

                  Comment


                    #10
                    so to fit a 6x9 even with the ex pod I have to cut the metal bar by 1 inch? hmm that seem like a lot of work compare to the drop in 6 1/2. I will eventually get a sub and amp for heavy bass. just for price comparasion how much does the Ex 6x9 pod sell for on this forum? my sister 1996 camry lx has 6x9 in the rear and it almost hit like 8" sub, well maybe not but it sound nice for OEM stock head unit and speaker.

                    2nd note maybe my jenson head unit it not that good got it for $140, I have seen jvc, kenwood, pioneer, sony around $150 that an play mp3 and has remote. I know these price range are low end product, i picked the jensen because it SAE 2006 rating sticker has the highest RMS watt power 18w vs all other I listed at 16w-17w. maybe I should go with a solid brand name unit even if it a few rms watt lower.
                    90 Accord Coupe LX, Stock JDM H22A Engine 10.6:1 - Stock Automatic LSD MPA1 Trans, JDM P13 Auto ECU + JDM P19 TCU. Tune with Greddy E-Manage Ultimate
                    < 317WHP/227WTQ@11psi> B/W S256 turbo, Daily Driving on 93 pump gas - since 2006. Driving Turbocharged CB7 Accord since 2002.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by blazen_accord
                      so to fit a 6x9 even with the ex pod I have to cut the metal bar by 1 inch? hmm that seem like a lot of work compare to the drop in 6 1/2. I will eventually get a sub and amp for heavy bass. just for price comparasion how much does the Ex 6x9 pod sell for on this forum? my sister 1996 camry lx has 6x9 in the rear and it almost hit like 8" sub, well maybe not but it sound nice for OEM stock head unit and speaker.

                      2nd note maybe my jenson head unit it not that good got it for $140, I have seen jvc, kenwood, pioneer, sony around $150 that an play mp3 and has remote. I know these price range are low end product, i picked the jensen because it SAE 2006 rating sticker has the highest RMS watt power 18w vs all other I listed at 16w-17w. maybe I should go with a solid brand name unit even if it a few rms watt lower.
                      name has nothing to do with head unit power, it doesn't matter...whereas you might hav eot worry about a few smaller companies ing a little bit on their ratings, jensen should be good...ultimately, you should amp: your sub and front speakers. even if you decide to keep rear speakers, then you wont want to amp them, as it will cost more money, instead you can just power them off of the head unit that you bought, that should be enough for rear fill that is noticable, but doesn't overpower the original intent of having a front stage in your ride...

                      the 6x9 pods arent worth the money and effort that it will require to put them in your car..just my $.02

                      Comment


                        #12
                        i agree, its not really that much work if you have a dremel to cut the metal rod. but if you just want a system that is gonna bump, just spend 150 bucks on some nice 6 1/2's than get a sub. 6x9's arent that big of an upgrade.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          personally, if i had the same thing to do with my car...i would get some 6.5" comps in the front doors, and if you want rear fill, get some inexpensive (not cheap, cheap is quality, inexpensive is price) 6.5" coaxial speakers, and then get a 10 or 2 8s or whatever...
                          if you want a 10....i'd go with an RE RE Series 10" sub....just my $.02

                          those 10" subs are killer for their size, and are only $66 a piece..and they need 175wRMS nominal, but can do well with less than that...say 150wRMS a piece
                          that would put you with an amp that you might can afford after you save up some more, and you would be oh, so happy with it...
                          Last edited by mondojackal; 10-28-2005, 03:41 PM.

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