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    High Output Alternator

    I am looking to get a high output alternator... What are some good brands, and what type of output/amperage should I be looking for? Also where is a good place to order them from?

    #2
    First off what are you gonna need it for? If you want a comp system then run a search or make an ambulance alternator fit using custom bracket!?! Just my 2cents!
    I run an optima yellow top, a 1 farad cap and a stock rebuilt alt. and have had no probs! And my amp is high current 2 channel, not a monoblock! So my lights dim a little but only when blasting(to loud to cruise to)!

    WaC!

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      #3
      If you are just running the stuf in your sig, you will be fine with a 1 farad capacitor. Even a .5 farad will work. But if you are going to purchase a H/O alternator no matter what, then the place to go would be:
      http://www.excessiveamperage.com/
      Email them with your car/contact info and they will get back to you. BTW, I run 2 eD NINe.1's and an eD NINe.2x on a stock alternator, stock battery, and 5 farad battery capacitor. I have very light dimming issues, and thats about 3000 watts RMS!

      Couldn't of been done without you guys

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        #4
        Thanks for the info... I am adding another amp and a 12" sub to my current system (as soon as it comes in).

        Below is what I plan on adding:

        ALPINE MRP-M350 V-POWER CLASS D MONO AMP
        ALPINE SWR-1242D TYPE R 12" SUBWOOFER

        Do I need to even worry about another alternator? I just want the best sound I can get out of what I have (and will have). I have a deep cycle battery that is comparible to an optima yellow top but no capacitator.

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          #5
          I wouldn't worry if I were you. Since you already have a deep cycle battery then you should be fine with a 1 farad battery cap. to the sub amp. The 4 channel doesn't need a battery cap unless you are already experiencing dimming without the sub set-up (which you shouldn't). I'd say you're good to go. Now, i you want a battery cap, I may have a used one for sale. Don't worry, it's a great brand; Stinger.

          Couldn't of been done without you guys

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            #6
            ok her is my .5cent worth....it wouldn't hurt getting a high output alternator...160 or even 200 would work. if u plan of getting any other speakers, subs, amps, whatnot then it would be wise to plan ahead and not waste your time and money on what u have now. plan ahead is the best thing u can do....H/O alternator is relatively cheap. 100-300 depending on brand. o and my stock alternator blew after 1 year of my 1600W rms system with 2 1 farad capacitors and an optima yellow top. well i had it pumping all the time especially at car shows lol.....all up to you....if u plan on more power than H/O is a must!
            My members ride thread

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              #7
              One more thing... What kind of box do you guys recommend? Sealed or Ported?

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                #8
                Originally posted by accrdpower
                ok her is my .5cent worth....it wouldn't hurt getting a high output alternator...160 or even 200 would work. if u plan of getting any other speakers, subs, amps, whatnot then it would be wise to plan ahead and not waste your time and money on what u have now. plan ahead is the best thing u can do....H/O alternator is relatively cheap. 100-300 depending on brand. o and my stock alternator blew after 1 year of my 1600W rms system with 2 1 farad capacitors and an optima yellow top. well i had it pumping all the time especially at car shows lol.....all up to you....if u plan on more power than H/O is a must!
                this guy slings around more than anyone else i have ever seen...the most you can run off of a stock alt for ANY length of time is about 600RMS, after you go above that, your power rails sag...and there aint no way you can compete at car shows with your engine idling...aint happening...

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by mondojackal
                  this guy slings around more than anyone else i have ever seen...the most you can run off of a stock alt for ANY length of time is about 600RMS, after you go above that, your power rails sag...and there aint no way you can compete at car shows with your engine idling...aint happening...
                  lmao ur a riot..... i didn't compete (audio wise) at car shows i just had it pumping with the car on...when the judges were on their way to judge my car i had to turn it off....they don't judge a running car.....do u go to shows????? i don't have my system on when the car is just parked there....i have it running and i rev it up now and then....i also had an extra battery i used. but that is beside the point. i know u can't run that much power off a stock alt at idle. even at peak it only makes like 80amps..... all i said in the previous post was to go with a higher output alt. who r u to tell me what i did or didn't do with my car lol now common
                  My members ride thread

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by methodical
                    One more thing... What kind of box do you guys recommend? Sealed or Ported?
                    What kind of music do you listen to? A sealed box will hit cleaner and faster, but a ported box is better for carrying out the deep, prolonged lows in rap music. I personally listen to a lot of rock so I get sealed boxes.

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                      #11
                      I personally love sealed, best sound Q and goes good with all music you listen to a little easier to build! But if you want it louder at any particular frequency you go ported, size of port and length become factors of tuning frequency, and this means a bigger box! The best ported box is a "snail shell" those boxes are the teets! Make 12" woofer look like a pair of 15" with less power needed! A lot harder to build than a regular ported box! So last is isobaric and bandpass, isobaric is two amplified woofers in 1 box with 2 different chambers, where the one woofer has a sealed box, that in turn is the "atmosphere" for the other woofer that has its own ported box! They call it the push pull design! Many design difficulties! But has the best sound Q of all, makes it hit tight and quick due to two woofers doing ones job! As for bandpass it (usually) has a sealed chamber which may be common for both woofers or not, and a ported chamber again may or may not be common to both woofers! Very boomy! Can be very hard to build/design and must be built to the speaker being loaded! Peace!

                      WaC!

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by methodical
                        One more thing... What kind of box do you guys recommend? Sealed or Ported?
                        depends not only on what you listen to, but also your subwoofers, some subs arent meant to be used in ported boxes...and sealed boxes give you higher power handling. if you go ported, you cant run as much power to your subs without risking damage...

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