kick panel dimensions

[jpaul_martinez]

i was wondering those of you that have installed kick panels, what is the maximum depth for the speakers? and the maximum diameter that will fit the panel? not only the cutout diameter but also the total diameter of the speaker.

im planning on placing some midbass and tweets.

thanks.

[evil_demon_01]

I know its not the kicks, but I did the doors

I did 3 types, each with there own advantage/disadvantage.

Stage 1


Advantage-Stock looking
Disadvantage-Cant have a very deep magnet, Poor imaging.

Stage 2


Advantage-Space for 2 speakers, Plenty of depth, some imaging
Disadvantage-1 speaker gets covered by seat when door is shut, Very heavy

Stage 3
Sorry dont have any pics of this yet, but Is basically a single speaker pod, angled up and back for imaging
Advantage- Good imaging, Can hold a deep speaker (3-4 inches)

[jpaul_martinez]

looks good, tweet in sail panel. im making an mdf bracket for the midbass for the doors. im worried that the panel may not seat properly. installing kicks tomorrow. i just re-did everything. no more rear speakers, just the front 3 way front stage setup with the bass from the trunk passing through the rear 6x9 holes. going to dynamat more of the trunk after. removed the rear licence plate frame since it rattles too much.

ill have pics as soon as im done with it.

nice custom work, custom is the bomb!

[gloryaccordy]

I'm trying to figure out something for the fronts as well...I actually thought about doing what you did in Stage 1, but out of wood somehow...those look like 5.25"s though; I was thinking of angling a 6.5" or cutting more into the door(where the dash meets the door)...but I dunno. Now I'm just thinking of cutting out the door skin around the speaker hole, and making a "box" using that space and the cubby space, so I can get that depth but also use a 6.5" speaker for better bass...

Eh but then again I have 2 12"s and some decent 6x9's and a 4-ch w/x-overs...plus I should be getting a new car within the next few months...eh. Honda really dropped the ball on our front speaker situation though...

[evil_demon_01]

I'm trying to figure out something for the fronts as well...I actually thought about doing what you did in Stage 1, but out of wood somehow...those look like 5.25"s though; I was thinking of angling a 6.5" or cutting more into the door(where the dash meets the door)...but I dunno. Now I'm just thinking of cutting out the door skin around the speaker hole, and making a "box" using that space and the cubby space, so I can get that depth but also use a 6.5" speaker for better bass...

Eh but then again I have 2 12"s and some decent 6x9's and a 4-ch w/x-overs...plus I should be getting a new car within the next few months...eh. Honda really dropped the ball on our front speaker situation though...

No They are 6.5's in stage 1. And that is a 12mm MDF panel carpeted so is nice and solid.
Yea I have 2 12's in the boot to but . . . the bass comes from the back if you know wat i mean, If you put midbass up front it "shifts" the sound more to the front and sounds more realistic.

[gloryaccordy]

No They are 6.5's in stage 1. And that is a 12mm MDF panel carpeted so is nice and solid.
Yea I have 2 12's in the boot to but . . . the bass comes from the back if you know wat i mean, If you put midbass up front it "shifts" the sound more to the front and sounds more realistic.

Wow those are really 6.5"s? Mine must be (I think they are) oversized then, hmmm...interesting. How did they sound, did you seal the back off (i.e. make a "box"), and did you Dynamat the door at all?

[evil_demon_01]

Yea they sound pretty good, have them high passed at 125Hz at the moment to. Nope I havnt boxed them.
Yep Stage 1 is a VERY tight fit, the grills and speaker touch on the door sill. which Is why I changed them, to the stage 3 design. which is an fibreglass pod angled up and back so I could get a bigger/deeper speaker in.

[jpaul_martinez]

heres what i did, i installed kicks and midbasses in the door, just finished it today, will have more pics up soon. i need to mod my door panels since there are vibrations from the midbass

[gloryaccordy]

jpaul,

Good work man! What do you have those x'd over at, and how did Dynamating the front door help the midbass?? I really want to get good bass down to 40-50Hz in the front but it's been a struggle...

Also, how'd you guys make those spacers? I have plastic ones that I might just rig something up for...but my only cutting tool right now is a dremel . Not exactly made for 3/4" MDF from what I know. What'd you use? Jigsaw routers?

[jpaul_martinez]

i used a freeair midbass speaker, if the doors are not sealed from all the holes, the rear sound coming from the speaker and the front will cancel out, you will have 180 deg out of phase speaker which you do not want. additionally the door will vibrate like hell.

the mdf ring was cut with a jigsaw. the mdf serves as a spacer and as dampening material for the midbass. i also sealed the spacer with caulk.

i need more dampening as the doors rattle a lot from the midbass even after dynamatting. i will use raamat this time. ensolite would be good but i dont think i have the time anymore to redo the whole door.

mid bass speakers should be crossed with a bandpass crossover if available. a bandpass that functions at 100hz low pass and 350hz high pass at a -12db slope would be best.

i do not have a bandpass, so i high passed from my pioneer processor (pics soon) and then i low passed from the amp at 100hz. slopes are at -6 or -12 depending on how loud i play the system.

a midbass i suppose to make up the space between the midrange and the subs, my subs are playing at about 70-80hz.

you are on the right path since you already have kicks. all you need it a midbass and remove your 6x9s. the 6x9s are only pulling your sound stage to the rear which you do not want if you want a good image/soundstage and are into SQ. i removed mine and i gained a 30% increase in bass and its clean, not muffled. you must have a powerful 3 way in the front to compensate for the bass coming from the rears though, although you already have the focals you should be good to go with a decent midbass up front.

if i knew about this in the beginning i wouldve gone active, i have an active passive system, but boy does it sound good. i have to do a little more modifications to the door since they rattle.

lowpassing the mids at 40-50 is not a good idea since that is what your subs should be playing, you need to bandpass them. you want the mids to blend in with the fronts, if the slope is too steep then the sound will be like theyre seperated & you dont want that.

EDIT:

my bad glory accord, i thought you were someone else since you guys have the same color accord. if you want a midbass, you will need also a midrange and tweets or else if you use them as midrange, you will defeat the purpose. basically you can get a 3way system or build one yourself like i did, you can find a nice set on ebay. they start at around 300.

jl audio
cdt
focal
dynaudio

those are a few, if i could do it again a from the beginning i would buy the cdt or the dynaudio. but the jl audio 3 way system is tempting.

midrange in the doors, midbass and tweets in the kicks. since i already bought components, i put the midbass in the doors, but i think its better that way with a 6.5 and above sized midbass (more air space for a larger woofer)