Dash Clock Problem

[EsperHamid]

The F22B1's intake has complete access to the EGR ports, there's basically a plate you can remove and clean the passage ways.

is it compatible with the F22A head ?! I looked it up on the internet and it seems that it has the solution for the EGR problem but it also requires a different airduct from the F22A stock IM

If you don't install that nut, you will have a coolant leak AND a vacuum leak. The large hole directly to the left of that none hole is a coolant passage. Replace that nut.

OMG for leak =><= OMG for-reinstalling that nut, I'll try my best

what about the PCV valve and oil in the IM, is it the right procedure ?!

[dj_ender]

I'm not totally sure of your question about the PCV, there will be oil on it, it vents crankcase pressure and sometimes oil comes out with that pressure.

The PCV is not the cause of there being oil in the throttle body, that would be the vent hose that vents from the passenger side of the valve cover to the intake tube.

No, the F22B1 intake will not fit on a F22Ax.

[wildBill83]

You could add a catch can to the PCV line and vent line? But yes, drain oil to correct levels and a valve cover cleaning couldn't hurt, but won't fix it. Just use a catch can and empty it periodically.

I could be wrong but code 12 is usually related the the EGR valve itself.

[EsperHamid]

You could add a catch can to the PCV line and vent line? But yes, drain oil to correct levels and a valve cover cleaning couldn't hurt, but won't fix it. Just use a catch can and empty it periodically.

catch can for the oil on PCV and vent line ?! weird.
What I understand from DJ_Ender post, is that I need to clean the oil from in the valve cover just below the PCV valve, in normal cases, oil shouldn't be there if oil is filled to the correct level right ?!

well I know valve cover should be oily but I am talking about the area ( hole ) on the valve cover where the PCV fits.

I could be wrong but code 12 is usually related the the EGR valve itself.

actually on later models it could but I've researched on the internet and here and it seems that accord 90-91-92-93 code 12 is due to clogged ports and not the valve itself.

I cleaned it ( egr valve ) thoroughly with carb cleaner and I am able to work the orange diaphragm back and forth by hand no problem, unless you mean the problem is in the vacuum control box ( the black box ) on the firewall.

code 12 just pops like after 5 minutes of driving @ 2500 rpm I guess, when CEL lights on the dashboard, the car hesitates in aggressive driving ( inside the city )

[wildBill83]

Yes, oil should not be there. A catch can is a safety backup, or insurance if you will.

I would not try anything with the vacuum system unless you have gauges to evaluate the system before hand. Have you also cleaned before the EGR? The ports before the EGR valve could also be blocked, even though that is more rare and generally a sign of poor engine maintenance.

Also DJ_Ender is pointing out that the crank vent is before the flow to throttle body, oil from PCV will be in your plenum. Air flow would prevent oil from going from plenum to throttle body.

[EsperHamid]

I would not try anything with the vacuum system unless you have gauges to evaluate the system before hand. Have you also cleaned before the EGR? The ports before the EGR valve could also be blocked, even though that is more rare and generally a sign of poor engine maintenance.

well from my work on this car, I can say that the previous owner haven't done any proper maintenance for 22 years.

so yes the ports are definitely clogged, but the EGR valve itself, I cleaned it 4 month ago. I think its the ports, cause not until I hit 2500 RPM that the CEL pops on.
if the valve had any problems the ECU would throw a code once I turn the key to the on position but it doesn't.

Also DJ_Ender is pointing out that the crank vent is before the flow to throttle body, oil from PCV will be in your plenum. Air flow would prevent oil from going from plenum to throttle body.

lost in translation. I meant by the throttle body, both the throttle and the plenum ... I cleaned them today, not cleaned for 22 years and yeah I found oil and gunk inside the plenum.

[EsperHamid]

just remembered something, when i re-installed the IM, I re-installed the Throttle cables. how much should I adjust it ?! should the TB be fully open when the gas pedal is all the way down ?!
suddenly, I remembered what I did to my old engine and I don't wanna make that mistake again.

[wildBill83]

if the valve had any problems the ECU would throw a code once I turn the key to the on position but it doesn't.

Not in every case, it may require the car to come out of warm-up mode and then detect the problem when it notices the EGR is not doing what it is designed to do.

The throttle cable should not be tight, it should have some slack. There is a thread on here about how to adjust it, I'm just too lazy to search it out.

[EsperHamid]

Not in every case, it may require the car to come out of warm-up mode and then detect the problem when it notices the EGR is not doing what it is designed to do.

The throttle cable should not be tight, it should have some slack. There is a thread on here about how to adjust it, I'm just too lazy to search it out.

I have eric the car guy video but how should I know the right position, I burned my previous engine when I opened the F22a4 rpm to 6000 .. I don't wanna do that.

How much should the RPM be when adjusting the throttle cable ?! should I warm up the car to normal operating temp. then adjust the cable ?!

is it related to ignition timing ?! or the base idle screw ?!

[wildBill83]

... sigh... You're going to make me search anyway for you?

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...throttle+cable
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...djust+throttle

[EsperHamid]

... sigh... You're going to make me search anyway for you?

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...throttle+cable
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...djust+throttle

put everything back together, getting hesitation, burn smell from engine bay.

what happens if I connect one of the sensor connectors wires pins switched. I have one of these sensor plastic connectors broken. I am talking about the ECT sensor. ( 2 wires )

just trying to eliminate all possibilities cause coolant is sipping from some coolant lines.

[EsperHamid]

put everything back together, getting hesitation, burn smell from engine bay.

what happens if I connect one of the sensor connectors wires pins switched. I have one of these sensor plastic connectors broken. I am talking about the ECT sensor. ( 2 wires )

just trying to eliminate all possibilities cause coolant is sipping from some coolant lines.

- nvm, I re-bled the system as it should, now it is OK. I drove the car, code 12 EGR still hits when on the highway.

- car runs great, I get no hesitation, however I do notice something, between the fuel rail and the plenum (around this area), I hear a hissing sound like the wind and I smell gas.
I just want to make sure of something, the fuel hose has 2 washers, they should be installed on top of each others and the 17mm nut comes on top of them right ?!
However I don't notice some liquid fuel around it so where could these gas be from? could it be the the mating surface between the head and the IM ?! I put a new gasket and made sure the nuts are tightened as much as possible. I will try to spray water like eric the car guy and see if there's vacuum leak.

- as for the dashboard clock it is clear that it is some wiring issue and not the clock itself. That's a pain in the ass !!
for this issue, either the negative battery is a little loose or I need to tighten the alternator belt ?! all other connections in the engine bay are good.
other areas I am thinking of checking, the parking light switch under the brake pedal and the wiring on the tail lights, also the wiring on both the driver and passenger door. one thing I am noticing, is that whenever I connect the negative cable I get a little spark

I know I am confusing you guys with my problems, but some ideas would really help. Sometimes when a person gets under stress, the miss a lot of things.

[EsperHamid]

just put an extra piece of metal to the negative wire harness to tighten it up for testing purposes but still having the clock problem, this time when I drive for like 15 min the clock gets back to normal.
So this rules out the battery, I think the alternator belt needs more tightening. Gonna do it today and see what happens.

[wildBill83]

- nvm, I re-bled the system as it should, now it is OK. I drove the car, code 12 EGR still hits when on the highway.

- car runs great, I get no hesitation, however I do notice something, between the fuel rail and the plenum (around this area), I hear a hissing sound like the wind and I smell gas.
I just want to make sure of something, the fuel hose has 2 washers, they should be installed on top of each others and the 17mm nut comes on top of them right ?!
However I don't notice some liquid fuel around it so where could these gas be from? could it be the the mating surface between the head and the IM ?! I put a new gasket and made sure the nuts are tightened as much as possible. I will try to spray water like eric the car guy and see if there's vacuum leak.

- as for the dashboard clock it is clear that it is some wiring issue and not the clock itself. That's a pain in the ass !!
for this issue, either the negative battery is a little loose or I need to tighten the alternator belt ?! all other connections in the engine bay are good.
other areas I am thinking of checking, the parking light switch under the brake pedal and the wiring on the tail lights, also the wiring on both the driver and passenger door. one thing I am noticing, is that whenever I connect the negative cable I get a little spark

I know I am confusing you guys with my problems, but some ideas would really help. Sometimes when a person gets under stress, the miss a lot of things.

Sounds like the EGR valve itself may be bad or you have a vacuum leak or incorrect vacuum hose attached. The IM has torque specks and a tightening sequence, did you follow them? Carb cleaner might be a better test than water for finding vacuum leaks.

On the fuel hose, it should be (top down) 17mm nut -> crush washer -> fuel line -> crush washer -> fuel rail (or filter depending on what side you removed).

What voltages are you seeing when the car is running? If your voltage never goes below 13v I doubt the problem is the alt or the belt. I would run new wiring for ground and memory wires personally. I'm betting you have a weak connection in a harness.

[EsperHamid]

Sounds like the EGR valve itself may be bad or you have a vacuum leak or incorrect vacuum hose attached. The IM has torque specks and a tightening sequence, did you follow them? Carb cleaner might be a better test than water for finding vacuum leaks.

On the fuel hose, it should be (top down) 17mm nut -> crush washer -> fuel line -> crush washer -> fuel rail (or filter depending on what side you removed).

What voltages are you seeing when the car is running? If your voltage never goes below 13v I doubt the problem is the alt or the belt. I would run new wiring for ground and memory wires personally. I'm betting you have a weak connection in a harness.

Update:
there are many things going with the car, I want to rule out the easy stuff then get to more complicated ... true the title of my thread but from working on this car, I found out all components are connected like a chain.

1) as I suspected, the alternator belt was not tight enough, tightened it, took out the car 3 times to test and yeah it seems no more extra digit and the clock retains time.

to be 100% sure that the problem is solved, I will wait till tomorrow morning, I will check the battery voltage and turn the key to the ON position and see if it still retains the timing.

2) for the EGR valve vacuum hose number 16 right ?! I am opening the black box tomorrow and will post a pic of it here. I drive the car when it surpasses 2500 rpm on the highway ( meaning car constantly rolling not held in traffic ) the CEL Lights up code 12 !! ==> as a result driving becomes rough between RPM 1000 - 3000 after 3000 @ 70 Km/h CEL still ON but car runs smooth. in traffic its HELL !!! EXHAUST PUFFS !!

Does that mean EGR valve problem or EGR ports ( Accord 1990 )????

3) Fuel Hose, thanks very much, it seems the mechanic that swapped the engine put them on top of each others so I repeated his mistake, gonna fix it tomorrow, but 1 washer is smaller than the other, which one should be on top of the fuel line ?!

4) I didn't follow a torque spec, but I tightened them from in to out and when I want to remove it I start from out and work myself to the center nuts. I made sue it is tight, I don't think it is leaking. However a carb cleaner test couldn't hurt.