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    running speaker wire

    Hey everyone. So just a quick question. Im trying to run speaker wire into my front doors, but I can't figure out how to get it through the tube that the other wires run through. Im sure I could fish it through with a coat hanger, but I can't fine the opening for the hole. So if someone has ran wire through there or can help me find where to run it id appreciate it. Thanks!

    #2
    itll suck popping it back in the metal, but I unpopped the boot from the body and ran them thru..it was a while ago and details are vague but I do remember it being a PITA in the hot sun

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      #3
      Yeah I guess I could do that. I was thinking about going from the kick panel out, but from the door in might be easier. Thanks.

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        #4
        There's room in the boot that runs from the door to the body, I just poked a hole in the boot ad then ran it through the little box there and back into the door boot, safest place for it, cause it can't get pinched or wet, I found taking the fender off made it way easier, it was a pita but only gotta do it once haha

        Reverse of what I said its easiest to go door/box/body/stereo

        Click it.... You know you wanna
        Bought from:Joshy,H22WAGON93, nho93accord,90accordLXGUY,phantomCB7,Tommi

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          #5
          Originally posted by 91kid View Post
          There's room in the boot that runs from the door to the body, I just poked a hole in the boot ad then ran it through the little box there and back into the door boot, safest place for it, cause it can't get pinched or wet, I found taking the fender off made it way easier, it was a pita but only gotta do it once haha

          Reverse of what I said its easiest to go door/box/body/stereo
          Do you have pics of how this is done?
          Thanks.

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            #6
            How much power are you trying to run to the front doors? Does it even justify replacing the existing wires? My setup is pushing 40w/rms @ 4ohms to every speaker. I ran some 14? gauge wires from my 4channel amp on the rear seat-back, to the factory wires behind the deck (through my adapter harness, since I am using RCA to feed my amps).

            The factory wires from the deck to the door speakers are short enough, and since most of the feed is done through a larger gauge wire, there's minimal loss due to resistance; in the end is all the effort spent running the wire through the doors worth the hassle of a what 0.1v drop? (unless your running a serious setup that requires a large gauge)
            Last edited by cloudasc; 10-12-2012, 12:06 AM.
            PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

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              #7
              Originally posted by cloudasc View Post
              How much power are you trying to run to the front doors? Does it even justify replacing the existing wires? My setup is pushing 40w/rms @ 4ohms to every speaker. I ran some 14? gauge wires from my 4channel amp on the rear seat-back, to the factory wires behind the deck (through my adapter harness, since I am using RCA to feed my amps).

              The factory wires from the deck to the door speakers are short enough, and since most of the feed is done through a larger gauge wire, there's minimal loss due to resistance; in the end is all the effort spent running the wire through the doors worth the hassle of a what 0.1v drop? (unless your running a serious setup that requires a large gauge)
              If you are referring to me then please let me explain. I am not replacing the speaker wires. I just want to run extra wires for my alarm windows control modules. So during the next summer I can vent 2" down on hot days. And if I leave my windows down, they can roll up with the alarm arming.

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                #8
                My previous post is directed towards OP.
                PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

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                  #9
                  Im running 110 rms to each speaker. Also, I've seen factory wire burn up on far less power. A risk I will not take. I just don't see why Honda has to make it so hard to run a damn wire.

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                    #10
                    i have seen 20 year old, 22g wire burn in our accord. its weird because i would never expect it to burn like that.

                    so my question will be: since the wires from the front door go between the chasi and the fender, how are you suppose to run them in the cabin?
                    are we there yet are we there yet are we there yet

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by hondakid1996 View Post
                      Im running 110 rms to each speaker. Also, I've seen factory wire burn up on far less power. A risk I will not take. I just don't see why Honda has to make it so hard to run a damn wire.
                      Wow, you are doing something very wrong. Never in my 25 years of installing have i seen speaker wire burn up.
                      Manual Belt Conversion-Variable Intermittent Wipers-Steering Volume Controls-Rear Defroster Antenna-JDM Climate Control-MDX Steering Wheel-Lighted Mirror Switch-CL Trunk Solenoid-CL Homelink-Shaved Hood Squirters-Foglight Wiring Diagram-Door Panel Removal-Puddle Lights-Ambient Lighting-Door Speaker Install-Window Seal and Regulator Cleaning-Prelude Cluster-Mirror Tweeter Pods-Illuminated Window Switch -More Coming Soon

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                        #12
                        Doing something wrong? Its common knowlage that if you put more power through a wire than it can handle it will heat up, and eventually melt.

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                          #13
                          It had to be short some where and definitely not in the speakers. It's definitely 110W RMS going through there steady. Most auto fire are cause by short in the power wires. Speaker wires just don't have enough continuous power to cause a fire. Plus the amp will blow a fuse before the speaker wire cause a fire. Or internal transistors will burn before a fire. So if you investigate, you will find the fire is caused elsewhere and not the speaker wire. Though with that said, nothing is impossible but it's near impossible in this case.

                          But I have to say, it's a bitch to run wires in the CB without some kind of piercing or hacking or boot damage.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Bad_dude View Post
                            It had to be short some where and definitely not in the speakers. It's definitely 110W RMS going through there steady. Most auto fire are cause by short in the power wires. Speaker wires just don't have enough continuous power to cause a fire. Plus the amp will blow a fuse before the speaker wire cause a fire. Or internal transistors will burn before a fire. So if you investigate, you will find the fire is caused elsewhere and not the speaker wire. Though with that said, nothing is impossible but it's near impossible in this case.

                            But I have to say, it's a bitch to run wires in the CB without some kind of piercing or hacking or boot damage.
                            Speaker wire will melt. I melted 16 gauge on about 1000rms. The wire was a 3 foot run from the amp to the box and I actually watched it start to smoke and melt. No shorts, just too much power. As for door speaker wire, I've never personally done that. However I have seen a buddy try and push 200ish rms through factory Nissan wire which got extremely hot and bubbled the shielding on the wire. Things can only take so much. But yeah, you're right about the running wires. Its a pain in the ass for sure.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by hondakid1996 View Post
                              Speaker wire will melt. I melted 16 gauge on about 1000rms. The wire was a 3 foot run from the amp to the box and I actually watched it start to smoke and melt. No shorts, just too much power. As for door speaker wire, I've never personally done that. However I have seen a buddy try and push 200ish rms through factory Nissan wire which got extremely hot and bubbled the shielding on the wire. Things can only take so much. But yeah, you're right about the running wires. Its a pain in the ass for sure.
                              I went to the junkyard many times to try using the cars out there, but I gave up. I could do it the messy way but trying to do it cleanly through the boot is tough. Any how, you have to take the fender of to do it cleanly and easier. Also if you take the pin off the door hinge, you could swing the door out more. But try not to take the door off b/c it's hard to reinstall it and align it as before. I just need to run a few wires into the door for the alarm window module. But winter is coming, I'll try to get it done before the heat returns.

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