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    #1

    Running two amps

    Right now I have all my speakers hooked up to one amp. I also have a 10" sub on the same amp. My buddy is giving me an amp for free and I will be installing it soon. Right now I have some pretty thick wire for the power, but I don't know what gauge it is(maybe 4 or 0?). Anyway, would it be better to run a distribution block or should I just run another wire from the battery to the other amp? It's not a powerful amp, he told me it's 460watts max so I'm guessing it's about 150rms. I just want it for vocals and then run my more powerful amp for the sub.

    Also my current amp has an Input for RCA's as well as an output, would I be able to run some short RCA's to the new amp instead of running a new set from the front to the back? Any advice would be nice please!
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    #2
    Originally posted by cuate01221 View Post
    Right now I have all my speakers hooked up to one amp. I also have a 10" sub on the same amp. My buddy is giving me an amp for free and I will be installing it soon. Right now I have some pretty thick wire for the power, but I don't know what gauge it is(maybe 4 or 0?). Anyway, would it be better to run a distribution block or should I just run another wire from the battery to the other amp? It's not a powerful amp, he told me it's 460watts max so I'm guessing it's about 150rms. I just want it for vocals and then run my more powerful amp for the sub.

    Also my current amp has an Input for RCA's as well as an output, would I be able to run some short RCA's to the new amp instead of running a new set from the front to the back? Any advice would be nice please!
    The proper way would be to run 2ga power from the battery to a distro block and run 4ga to each amp. BTW 0ga is bigger than your fingers...
    Originally posted by Mishakol129
    Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by dj_ender View Post
      The proper way would be to run 2ga power from the battery to a distro block and run 4ga to each amp. BTW 0ga is bigger than your fingers...
      Ok so I think it is 2 gauge haha, It's really thick, but it isn't as thick as 0 gauge. Thanks for the help man.

      Comment

        #4
        2 guage for 150w rms? You got to be smoking crack.

        4 guage --> distribution block of 2 4 guages or 2 8 guages will be just fine.

        If you want to do it more scientifically:
        Add up the amps on the fuses on each of your amps.

        Then go here http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp and then determine the length (16 feet is good). Then with all this you can justify the main power wire size, as well as the power wire for the distribution block.
        What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

        You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

        Retro!

        Hater

        I love nooBs...They make me look good

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by cuate01221 View Post
          Ok so I think it is 2 gauge haha, It's really thick, but it isn't as thick as 0 gauge. Thanks for the help man.
          NP. If you can afford it, grab a fused distro block, its not required, but helps protect your investment.
          Originally posted by Mishakol129
          Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by accordztech View Post
            2 guage for 150w rms? You got to be smoking crack.

            4 guage --> distribution block of 2 4 guages or 2 8 guages will be just fine.

            If you want to do it more scientifically:
            Add up the amps on the fuses on each of your amps.

            Then go here http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp and then determine the length (16 feet is good). Then with all this you can justify the main power wire size, as well as the power wire for the distribution block.
            We are talking about 2 amps here, not 1 150w amp. And with one amp being dedicated to subs, I stand by my statement.
            Originally posted by Mishakol129
            Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by dj_ender View Post
              We are talking about 2 amps here, not 1 150w amp. And with one amp being dedicated to subs, I stand by my statement.
              I agree with Dj_ender as well. I would much rather be safe than sorry. If you dish out the extra $10 now for a quality product, you won't need to dish out another $50 later when you want to upgrade.

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by cuate01221 View Post
                I agree with Dj_ender as well. I would much rather be safe than sorry. If you dish out the extra $10 now for a quality product, you won't need to dish out another $50 later when you want to upgrade.
                He MIGHT be TECHNICALLY right as far as size and length, but in my experiences larger gauged wires help with power transfer to the audio system and help prevent the system from robbing power from the engine.
                Originally posted by Mishakol129
                Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )

                Comment

                  #9
                  There is a point to where having enough for "just incase" or having to much and wasting money.

                  There is no way in hell an amp at around 150w may need to exceed about 1000-1400 watts. No way in hell. Even 2 amps. Thats why you add the fuses on the amps.

                  Its a waste of money. And a 0 or 2 guage amp kit is not 10 dollars difference in terms of price compared to a 4 guage amp kit.
                  What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

                  You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

                  Retro!

                  Hater

                  I love nooBs...They make me look good

                  Comment

                    #10
                    I had about 300-400 just in hardware to wire this stuff together. Sound quality was incredible. The Kenwood shown was swapped out for a (at the time) top of the line Excellon 600W. Once the sub amp was mounted the only wires you saw were the two from the 4 channel to the crossovers.

                    '93 H22A 5SPD SE - MRT - DIY-Turbo Sizing

                    Comment

                      #11
                      One thing to watch out for is cheap wire kits...They say they are 0ga or 2ga but they are no where near what they say. So the old saying " you get what you pay for"! That 12volt.com website is a great web sit, I used when i was doing install on the side. About your RCA I think it would be better to run a second set for the other amp. I have seen where amps have RCA pre outs for a second amp so you dont have to run another full set. But personally I have never used them, I would think by using the RCA pre outs on the second amp you would cut down on interference from cars electronic.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        0-4g is a big diference. its like sayn 4-8g. since you already have a 0g in your car might as well use what you have. keep that and use a dist block with 4g running from that to the amps. if you have a 4g you can do two 8g from the dist block. quick question how many ch does ur current amp have

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Originally posted by s.lownslow.e View Post
                          0-4g is a big diference. its like sayn 4-8g. since you already have a 0g in your car might as well use what you have. keep that and use a dist block with 4g running from that to the amps. if you have a 4g you can do two 8g from the dist block. quick question how many ch does ur current amp have
                          I believe my wiring is 2awg. I didn't install it, bought it with the car, and I'm ignorant when it comes to wire size. My amp is a 4 channel amp.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            I'm running two amps myself, I got 4 gauge wire from the battery, through the driver side of the car, to a distribution block, and each amp is connected by 8 gauge wire.

                            One amp is a 4x40w RMS @ 4ohm Alpine
                            My other amp is a 1x300w RMS @ 4ohm, 1x500w RMS @ 2ohm Alpine (running @ 4ohm with 1 JL 12w1)

                            It takes about 2 minutes of the volume turned up all the way before my lights start to dim with the bass with the car idling at 700 rpms. Got an Interstate brand battery if that matters.
                            Last edited by cloudasc; 02-09-2012, 08:30 PM.
                            PT3/6 Development Thread | My 1991 LX Coupe | DIY: 90-93 Tcu Fix

                            Comment

                              #15
                              This is my problem with forums...

                              Theirs a lot of advice being given with out any real info from the original poster... so basically its all useless...

                              First. what make and model of amps is the op using...?

                              Telling us it has 150 watts, is like me stating i drive a 140hp car... can I win a race with it...?

                              its a pointless question with out details...

                              Second. what size wire can you fit in this amps...?

                              My alpine 4 channel can fit a max 8 gauge input, but my phoenix gold 4 channel can fit a 4 gauge ...

                              again knowing this would help in the advice given.

                              In Need of an engine, just a basic f22a...pm me if you have one willing to part with.

                              Comment

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