100watts rms @ 1 ohm for 10$

[tgdrums1990]

Hey just figured ide post this in here for ya guys. Looks like the perfect amp for someone wanting to do things CHEAP! Thing is youl need either 2 2 ohm subs or 4 4 ohm subs to get that real 100 watts.

But looks like a decent starter amp for someone or if somone in the race game wants to put something light in there to power some 6 X 9's for sub duty... Or a pair of 10's in the back deck.

Hope this dosent get me in trouble... I am NOT advertising, just trying to help other broke music lovers out...

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=269-175

If this amp was used with our stock deck output would be closer to around 60 watts rms at 1 ohm. But using a aftermarket deck just piping the raw speaker output into the unit youl get pretty darm close to that 100 watts rms.

A little more digging and i found that the main outputs in it are IRFZ44 transitors that were found in the early 90's kicker stuff. A poster also seems to confirm this.

Dnt know what the amp came out off, a poster says Chrysler 300...

[sonikaccord]

oooo IRFZs=reliable

I saw this on diyma, so it's legit. If you buy 10 of them you'll have 1000 watts

[Sarthos]

Lol, same. Actually what it would be great for is the 6x9 "sub" in the wagons lol. It'd just be nice to have some more 1 ohm drivers available. Alternatively you can put these to a dual 1 ohm driver and get 200 watts to a sub! But then you'll melt your headunit cause it uses the headunit power to power the amplifier... kinda dumb IMO to not use actual power and ground.

Edit: Doesn't work for people like us with good stereos though

[tgdrums1990]

Lol, same. Actually what it would be great for is the 6x9 "sub" in the wagons lol. It'd just be nice to have some more 1 ohm drivers available. Alternatively you can put these to a dual 1 ohm driver and get 200 watts to a sub! But then you'll melt your headunit cause it uses the headunit power to power the amplifier... kinda dumb IMO to not use actual power and ground.

Edit: Doesn't work for people like us with good stereos though

I gusse your right but if you have a good stereo you can afford a good amp. If you are spending good money on a deck you wnt skimp and get a cheap amp. This is for those whole are looking for an addition to their factory setup on a budjet. I think 50 watts @ 2ohms to a 10 will keep up with the factory radios

Also i have no clue where you r getting this will rob your radio of power? All the speaker inputs are is just a devider network of reisistors to reduce the voltage of the speaker outputs before piping it into the preamp of the amp itself. I could understand if there was a resistor across these hi level input wires to create a load for the head unit but there isnt.

What, it does use power and ground... The unit is just hi level drivin instead of line level which means it uses speaker outputs for the inputs.

The amp is self has a power and ground input, and it detects voltage on the speaker inputs to turn the amp on automatically.

Edit. I corrected this post. Originally I said 50 watts at 4 ohm. I ment 2 ohm.

[Sarthos]

I thought it did put somewhat of a load on the stereo, which would drop the impedance on your stereo and fry it. But you may very well pop the 7.5 amp stereo fuse lol.

Think it actually puts out 50 watts at 4 ohms? I'd assume 25. But if so, I could use that in vehicles other than my own..

[visualpoet]

Hmmm... four of them to power my mid/highs; one apiece would look tight in the trunk. But, that's just more weight. I'm still trying to decide what I want to do to get rid of the two 12's and all their MDF I'm toting around without losing decibels. I can't decide if I want to go with a single 15 or try my hand at fiberglass and a custom enclosure. I'm happy with my SPL and my SQL, but I'd like to unload some weight.

Trevor, we need to get together and discuss my trunk sometime.

[tgdrums1990]

[QUOTE=Sarthos;2705256]I thought it did put somewhat of a load on the stereo, which would drop the impedance on your stereo and fry it. But you may very well pop the 7.5 amp stereo fuse lol.



But you dn't have to drive it off the radio fuse man you do have to supply it with it's own power source. But a 10 gauge amp kit will fix that... Or even a 12 gauge if you wanted to skimp.

All you need to run to it is a power wire and 3 sets of speaker wires. 2 for source and 1 for output.

The amp is so small you can fit it anywhere nearly to make the install easier.

[tgdrums1990]

Hmmm... four of them to power my mid/highs; one apiece would look tight in the trunk. But, that's just more weight. I'm still trying to decide what I want to do to get rid of the two 12's and all their MDF I'm toting around without losing decibels. I can't decide if I want to go with a single 15 or try my hand at fiberglass and a custom enclosure. I'm happy with my SPL and my SQL, but I'd like to unload some weight.

Trevor, we need to get together and discuss my trunk sometime.

FYI these have a 150hz low pass crossover built in. It may be able to be defeated but i would have to have an amp in my hands to know for sure and to see how it is designed.

But still if you know a punk who wants a system, hey man... Want a 20$ amp? 100 watts Assuming you picked 2 up and they couldnt be modded...

[visualpoet]

FYI these have a 150hz low pass crossover built in. It may be able to be defeated but i would have to have an amp in my hands to know for sure and to see how it is designed.

But still if you know a punk who wants a system, hey man... Want a 20$ amp? 100 watts Assuming you picked 2 up and they couldnt be modded...

Ah, I skimmed over that in the description. But it could be worth it to pick up a few and resell them to guys that want a little more bass without taking up a lot of space. They could power a tube with the right DVC sub in it very nicely.

[cvc7chris]

so these wont work for mids and highs

[sonikaccord]

so these wont work for mids and highs

Nope...They have a built in low pass filter.

[Sarthos]

Actually, if you could get 40 RMS watts out of this thing (I have no idea how it works, no gain settings or anything). But if you had two little 8s with dual 1 ohm voice coils, and 1 amp per coil, you could get 400 watts.

[tgdrums1990]

Actually, if you could get 40 RMS watts out of this thing (I have no idea how it works, no gain settings or anything). But if you had two little 8s with dual 1 ohm voice coils, and 1 amp per coil, you could get 400 watts.

Ur right man I had a dumb thought. 25watts rms was correct. Terrible math. Bah. Meds.... Ahaha

I think I ment 2 ohms to be honest but it prolly was bad math. Good cetch.

[Sarthos]

Well on many amps you don't see a linear change in power vs impedance. For example, an amp that puts out 180 watts at 2 ohms may put out 110 at 4 ohms...

And it may also put out 360x2 @ 4 ohms bridged, which could happen to be the massively underrated power it produces at 12 volts

[tgdrums1990]

Well on many amps you don't see a linear change in power vs impedance. For example, an amp that puts out 180 watts at 2 ohms may put out 110 at 4 ohms...

And it may also put out 360x2 @ 4 ohms bridged, which could happen to be the massively underrated power it produces at 12 volts

Ur right. Some amps do and some dont. Typically i just devide in half, get me a number close to what i want... Besisdes give or take a few watts at 20+ watts i would imagine will only make a small diffrance in head room, Will probably clean it up the sq tad but no diffrance in volume really.