Installed DEI 530T?

[Bad_dude]

Question on the gray H2/5: - output during activation.

It says Connect this wire to optional relay (P/N 610T) to bypass sensors which may trigger the security system during operation. This wire continues to output - ground for 5 seconds after the window motors have stopped.

I think wire deactivates any sensors like shock, motion, ect... in case when the system is armed and you want to roll the windows up or down to avoid full trigger.

Question here is which wire do I connect this to? I know it's an optional relay, but how is the relay wired? Where does the relay connect to?

Thanks.

[accordztech]

It says Connect this wire to optional relay (P/N 610T) to bypass sensors which may trigger the security system during operation. This wire continues to output - ground for 5 seconds after the window motors have stopped.

I think wire deactivates any sensors like shock, motion, ect... in case when the system is armed and you want to roll the windows up or down to avoid full trigger.

Question here is which wire do I connect this to? I know it's an optional relay, but how is the relay wired? Where does the relay connect to?

Thanks.

Are you talking about the orange wire? Just hook it up to the brain, but put a diode with the band facing towards the window module, that will eliminate any issues with any other devices on that line. If there is no devices then your ok.

[Bad_dude]

Are you talking about the orange wire? Just hook it up to the brain, but put a diode with the band facing towards the window module, that will eliminate any issues with any other devices on that line. If there is no devices then your ok.

No, I was talking about the gray H2/5: - output during activation on the 530T itself.
But while you mention it, the orange wire you are referring to is the ground when arm wire right? Should I diode the voice module this way too with the stripe facing the accessory? So basically any thing I add to the orange ground when arm, I should put a diode with the stripe facing the unit I am adding?

Thanks.

[Bad_dude]

Are you talking about the orange wire? Just hook it up to the brain, but put a diode with the band facing towards the window module, that will eliminate any issues with any other devices on that line. If there is no devices then your ok.

I was just thinking about what you wrote, are you sure the diode with band facing the windows module or the band facing the alarm brain like in this diagram?
I just want to make sure which way the diode connect is correct. As the info is negative going from brain to module the direction should be band toward device, so band facing brain right?

Thanks.

[accordztech]

I was just thinking about what you wrote, are you sure the diode with band facing the windows module or the band facing the alarm brain like in this diagram?
I just want to make sure which way the diode connect is correct. As the info is negative going from brain to module the direction should be band toward device, so band facing brain right?

Thanks.

If you look, in that diagram the band is facing the modules.

No, I was talking about the gray H2/5: - output during activation on the 530T itself.
But while you mention it, the orange wire you are referring to is the ground when arm wire right? Should I diode the voice module this way too with the stripe facing the accessory? So basically any thing I add to the orange ground when arm, I should put a diode with the stripe facing the unit I am adding?

Thanks.

Gee, I forgot about that wire. That wire is used to turn off or do something to another sensor. You can just ignore it. But In my years of installing I always ran 2 extra wires through the door jam (18 guage)regardless of vheicle. Just incase a speaker wire gets damaged, or I want to run something else into the door.

[Bad_dude]

If you look, in that diagram the band is facing the modules.

Wait sorry, wrong diagram. This one. Now the diode band facing the brain. The previous diagram is just for the multiple sensors with the band facing the sensors.

Gee, I forgot about that wire. That wire is used to turn off or do something to another sensor. You can just ignore it. But In my years of installing I always ran 2 extra wires through the door jam (18 guage)regardless of vheicle. Just incase a speaker wire gets damaged, or I want to run something else into the door.

OK. Any tips on how to run wires through the door without drilling? How you get multiples wires through the door boot?

One more question, trunk release actuator, is this how I wire the relay?
87---Output to trunk actuator (+)
87a--- not use
85---Ground
30---12V Constant fuse, how many amps is sufficient?
86---Alarm aux (-)
Is there a way to test the actuator with the relay connected before installing on the alarm?
Do I wire the actuator to pull or push on our CBs? I saw some pictures but too close up so I can't judge the distance between the actuator and the rod. So I guess actuator rod parallel to OEM trunk rod? How far does it pull before the trunk release?

Thanks, it's almost done with prep. I just need to get the wiring prep done. I am going to leave the voice and window modules until next month when I get a little money. At least I got this nice alarm for only $55.

[accordztech]

yeah, for the module, the band goes towards the brain....that last pic is correct. It should also say in the manual for the module.

As for running the lines, patience lol. Small coat hanger with the wire tapped to it can do it. I posted it in a previous post.

for the relay for the trunk pop.
-run 1 wire to the actuator and ground the other wire in the trunk.
-wire up a relay like this:
30-12v
85-aux from brain
86-12v (can be linked to 30a)
87-wire going to actuator.
87a-not used

Basically the brain puts out a negitive signal. That negitive signal activates this relay (through 85 and 86) and sends whatever is in the "30" spot to the 87. In this case 12v power is at the 30 and will be relayed to the 87 output.

Since you grounded the actuator in the trunk, it just needs that 12v signal to activate. You can test it, possibly by just hooking it up with the backup battery and it should have enough juice. If not just power up the brain with 12v to a car battery.

For mounting, you have to look at how the rod attaches to the mechanism in the trunk. It is optimum that the rod stay paralell to the factory to mimic the operation.

I just thought of something. if you did the backup battery, did you hook it up to the blue trunk trigger wire of the brain (or whatever color you got)? Cause if so you have to diode isolate both wires with the band facing AWAY from the brain.

[Bad_dude]

I just thought of something. if you did the backup battery, did you hook it up to the blue trunk trigger wire of the brain (or whatever color you got)? Cause if so you have to diode isolate both wires with the band facing AWAY from the brain.

My Crime Guard 750i6 battery backup is a 9V. I bought the rechargeable battery for it. It has a 2 pin connect inside of the brain with a lid over. From inside there's a red wire that goes out of the brain into the red positive 12V constant, which I tap on the brain red 12V constant before the fuse then to car battery.
So the alarm internal circuit is taking care of the trigger when the main battery is cut. No need to wire like the DEI 520T. I'll see how it goes. I think if I could wire another DEI 520T to the system for better backup protection, what do you think, is it necessary?

yeah, for the module, the band goes towards the brain....that last pic is correct. It should also say in the manual for the module.

BTW, the DEI 530T manual does not say any thing about diode isolation for the orange GWA wire. This point is confusing as every one agrees with what you said and so do I, then I come across this DEI N516U manual, on the last page, it says to wire the diodes with band toward the modules and away from the brain. So is DEI wrong, if not could you explain?
Another point in this manual is that, if you don't have a Directed Alarm, don't use the brown siren monitor and wire up the green warn away to the sensor instead right? So is the siren brown wire signal from the non Directed system is different than the Directed system? I would think it's just an electrical signal right so it should work the same?

While I am here, if you would answer this. I found this thread, it tells you the conventional way to wire up the starter kill relay correctly so you won't leave your battery flat.
However, my Crime Guard 750i6 came with the prewired relay attached to the orange GWA wire as below:
87a---starter solenoid
86----Orange GWA.
30----Ignition switch side of starter cut.
85----red wire connect from pin 30.

Diode between 85 and 86 with band toward 85.
My question here, though not conventional, would this still work safely and correctly? I have to cut the orange GWA wire from this relay to connect other wires in for the modules and maybe sensors, do I need to diode isolate it with band toward the brain before connecting the relay back on? Like this diagram?

Thanks for all of your help.

[Bad_dude]

As for running the lines, patience lol. Small coat hanger with the wire tapped to it can do it. I posted it in a previous post.

When you did it, is our door molex any thing like this Mazda one?

Thanks.

[Bad_dude]

for the relay for the trunk pop.
-run 1 wire to the actuator and ground the other wire in the trunk.
-wire up a relay like this:
30-12v
85-aux from brain
86-12v (can be linked to 30a)
87-wire going to actuator.
87a-not used

Basically the brain puts out a negitive signal. That negitive signal activates this relay (through 85 and 86) and sends whatever is in the "30" spot to the 87. In this case 12v power is at the 30 and will be relayed to the 87 output.

Since you grounded the actuator in the trunk, it just needs that 12v signal to activate. You can test it, possibly by just hooking it up with the backup battery and it should have enough juice. If not just power up the brain with 12v to a car battery.

For the relay above, should I put a diode between 85 and 86 with the band toward 86?
Thanks.

[accordztech]

For the relay above, should I put a diode between 85 and 86 with the band toward 86?
Thanks.

Your ok, thats usually for high current stuff like starter kills and fan setups.

My Crime Guard 750i6 battery backup is a 9V. I bought the rechargeable battery for it. It has a 2 pin connect inside of the brain with a lid over. From inside there's a red wire that goes out of the brain into the red positive 12V constant, which I tap on the brain red 12V constant before the fuse then to car battery.
So the alarm internal circuit is taking care of the trigger when the main battery is cut. No need to wire like the DEI 520T. I'll see how it goes. I think if I could wire another DEI 520T to the system for better backup protection, what do you think, is it necessary?

Cool, Dont worry about another backup battery. Just more junk.

When you did it, is our door molex any thing like this Mazda one?

Not really, there is no molex in there, however there is just less room. I take out the one going into the car, and the one going into the door so its accessable. Then I feed a somewhat short stiff coat hanger through it and guide it through. Takes some finesse. Then once I get it I hook the wire to one end and then fish it through. I dont put ALL the wires to the end. Basically ill attach one wire to the rod, then about an inch down that wire, I tape another...and so on.. That way your not pulling a HUGE wad of tape through the door. Sometimes a light spray of something oily will help the wire go through better.

BTW, the DEI 530T manual does not say any thing about diode isolation for the orange GWA wire. This point is confusing as every one agrees with what you said and so do I, then I come across this DEI N516U manual, on the last page, it says to wire the diodes with band toward the modules and away from the brain. So is DEI wrong, if not could you explain?

Try it without the diode, I think I gotten away with it a few times. But once sensors start trippin then its time to add a diode. Adding a diode wont hurt, unless you put it the wrong way. If you put it the wrong way the signal just wont go through. If you dont have any other accessories connected to the orange wire you are usually fine.

Another point in this manual is that, if you don't have a Directed Alarm, don't use the brown siren monitor and wire up the green warn away to the sensor instead right? So is the siren brown wire signal from the non Directed system is different than the Directed system? I would think it's just an electrical signal right so it should work the same?

Im not sure what you mean with the brown wire. Are you talking about from a DEI brain, or from a siren? A siren should be tapped to the siren output on the brain, not to a warn away sensor.

While I am here, if you would answer this. I found this thread, it tells you the conventional way to wire up the starter kill relay correctly so you won't leave your battery flat.
However, my Crime Guard 750i6 came with the prewired relay attached to the orange GWA wire as below:
87a---starter solenoid
86----Orange GWA.
30----Ignition switch side of starter cut.
85----red wire connect from pin 30.

Diode between 85 and 86 with band toward 85.
My question here, though not conventional, would this still work safely and correctly? I have to cut the orange GWA wire from this relay to connect other wires in for the modules and maybe sensors, do I need to diode isolate it with band toward the brain before connecting the relay back on? Like this diagram?

not knowing the alarm itself, im not sure how they may react. The reason for a diode is for power not to back feed from another source to the unit. Basically a "one way bridge". Usually if I have a single wire that I want to diode isolate 2 signals, I always have a diode on each one.

[Bad_dude]

Not really, there is no molex in there, however there is just less room. I take out the one going into the car, and the one going into the door so its accessable. Then I feed a somewhat short stiff coat hanger through it and guide it through. Takes some finesse. Then once I get it I hook the wire to one end and then fish it through. I dont put ALL the wires to the end. Basically ill attach one wire to the rod, then about an inch down that wire, I tape another...and so on.. That way your not pulling a HUGE wad of tape through the door. Sometimes a light spray of something oily will help the wire go through better.

So basically you run into the cabin first then into the door? You have to take the rubber boot from the door off then it looks like a gray plastic cover to the cabin side. Did you have to take the fender off? So is there a block off of some sort from the inside of the cabin? Also, one more question on this, the wire goes into cabin right above the fuse box right?

Im not sure what you mean with the brown wire. Are you talking about from a DEI brain, or from a siren? A siren should be tapped to the siren output on the brain, not to a warn away sensor.

I mean the brown wire from the voice module to monitor the siren from the alarm brain. So I don't need to wire up to the green tiny wire from the sensor right?

Hey, instead of doing the starter kill relay, could I use the relay setup below to do the fuel main relay kill? Took the idea from Honda-tech. I am going to use the prewired Crime Guard relay for the starter kill to do this main relay kill. What do you think?

87a---Chassis ground
86----Orange GWA.
30----to black ground lead of PGM-FI Main Relay.
85----Ignition 12V only.
Cut the red connecting lead between 85 and 30
And if you want to make some noise while the thief trying to start the car with the alarm arm, connect the horn lead to 87.
Diode between 85 and 86 with band toward 85.

Finally, could you go over to this thread and give me some ideas or thoughts?
Thanks.

[Bad_dude]

I was just wondering, instead of running a constant 10Ga wire into the door which could be difficult due to larger size of the wire, could I use relays to make momentary 12V to constant to work with the module? Any draw backs like battery drain?
This diagram, 2nd one.

Thanks.

[accordztech]

10 guage is thick. Id just put like a 12 guage. Your basically matching the guage thats already in the door. Honestly in mine I think I went with 14 guage (road gear kit at walmart)

If you do relays, the point of a relay is to power a source with a good solid power source by using a smaller circuit to switch it on. So you are STILL going to need some good power comming in.

[Bad_dude]

10 guage is thick. Id just put like a 12 guage. Your basically matching the guage thats already in the door. Honestly in mine I think I went with 14 guage (road gear kit at walmart)

If you do relays, the point of a relay is to power a source with a good solid power source by using a smaller circuit to switch it on. So you are STILL going to need some good power comming in.

Hey, you know those plugs right above the fuses? I got a pic of it. The plug all the way inside has a constant 12V, do you know how many amps that thing can handle? I wonder which fuse is for that plug?