crossovers

[DRAGGEN]

yes i know my camera sux i have a electronic crossover as well a 4 way rather than the usual three way one. sub output, midbass output, midrange output, tweeter output.

[r0gergcm]

this thread helped me alot... i was wondering wtf they were also

[DRAGGEN]

ill edit it after work the camera made me mad so i can photoshop them and maybe add some illustration or schematic and then ill dig out my electronic one and explain some of the properties on that.

[Smokinspeeds]

this may be a really dumb question, but i have been trying to figure out what purpose crossovers serve and i was wondering if someone could enlighten me

Running your subs along with your other speakers may not be the best idea. You can but normally amps only have one crossover for all the channels. If it has two crossovers you can do it but you can only run the subs from two of the channels and two of your car speakers from the other. If you try to hook up all foor door/back panel speakers you will drop the output down to 2 ohms and not many amps can handle 2 ohms stereo. And if you do that plus your subs are running at 4 ohms... that could cause more problems. Not to mention that amps running at two ohms pull way more from your battery. As for crossovers in general yes you need them. Subs only produce the low notes and if you run full sound range you'll lose about half your wattage in sound you can't hear cause the subs can't reproduce them. It'll make them sound more distorted, and you run a higher risk of frying them due to increased heat it'll make from the electricity for the higher sound frequencies it can't produce. It's easy to get a crossover as most amps have them and they don't really add to the price. Set it on low for subs and then play with the level a bit. If you also have a bass boost you will want to turn that all the way up. With the volume on a tolerably high level set the level or gain or whatever the main output is labeled just below distortion level for the best sound. With your other speakers high or full should run fine as most aftermarket speakers will produce a full range. Tweeters will want the high crossover setting. As for the frequency level don't worry so much about the numbers themselves. Play by ear. The optimal setting will sound the best. Your subs will be lower and louder, and your tweeters will sound the crispest at their right level. If you have any more questions feel free to Im me or pm me. I've installed my whole system and several others mine and another both being accords.
Jeremiah

[alb_accord]

ok so i got a 800 watt piramide amp 4 channel.. now i have bridge it and have it set at 400 watt since i have 2 10" subbs. sometimes the bass its good. but some times its disstorted. anywas. my head unit is a pioneer deh p6600. which comes a with a 50x4 build mossfet amp.
now how can i use these cross overs for the subbs because some time the sound its so shitty. oh and yeah i got two lines from the subb preout and two lines from the midds and highs fromt the head unit.

[Smokinspeeds]

ok so i got a 800 watt piramide amp 4 channel.. now i have bridge it and have it set at 400 watt since i have 2 10" subbs. sometimes the bass its good. but some times its disstorted. anywas. my head unit is a pioneer deh p6600. which comes a with a 50x4 build mossfet amp.
now how can i use these cross overs for the subbs because some time the sound its so shitty. oh and yeah i got two lines from the subb preout and two lines from the midds and highs fromt the head unit.

WHat kind of Rca cables do you have? That's the other biggest issue. Depending on your car and how you rca's from the head unit were run you may get road noise. Killed nearly half my wattage a lot of the time. You can get shielded RCAs which will run you up to $100 or so for a good pair(I know they are out there cheaper if you look though) so you don't have to worry about road noise. Or you can do what I did and run wires off of your rear deck speakers into the high level input on your amp(should be one, most amps have them) and since you are only running them like 2 or 3 feet instead of 20' you shouldn't get any interferance eating up your wattage. Another thought, your box may be the problem. Boxes are tuned and often they'll sound way better on one song and on another sound like they can't spit out enough to shake a leaf. If you hear clipping in songs with certain ranges then that may be it. Plus your level may be to high. Some songs are not so loud and if your level is high may sound perfect, but when you turn on something that should be banging it's so hi your subs just clip and sound like old stock 8watt door speakers being pushed by 50w from a new deck. Best way to tell the difference between box and road noise would be to turn on your system and mute it. Drive around a bit. If you hear noise from the sub or look at them and they are vibrating mostly in-audibly they you have road noise. You can compensate somewhat for this by turning your lowpass filter up, but your subs won't produce as low of notes. Play with your stuff a bit and you'll find out where it's coming from. If it's the box you might want to consider replacing that. Sealed boxes are best from keeping you from over-boosting the sound from your subs. Ported are good if they are made right. If you make it yourself without doing homework there is the possibility you will boost it so much you'll actually put holes in the speaker. Mine boosts my subs quite a bit and sounds good in most ranges but since my amp is far below the rating of the subs it won't hurt it. I built my own ported box. Actually it's a slotten port with my own custom design to give it a larger range and it works REALLY well. If you get another box do a little homework on it. Read some reviews and you'll quickly learn a lot and soon find something you'll like.
JEremiah
2 12" legacy blue diamond 500w RMS 1000w MAx each
1 2Channel blue diamond (supposedly) 1000w amp actually putting out 75w ea channel
My own custom box
add it all up and people don't believe their just legacy's....... specially when you can hear me in your house from about a half a mile away. Literally. And all for about $230? I can't complain. (Well I can cause I can't use my rearview mirror anymore :P )

[bshshondaman06]

i have crossover that has to be powered and has to have a remote hooked up to it.. it also has a bass boost. my amp has a built in crossover but no bass boost. so i got this crossover and hooked it up... its a 12db bass boost pos but it made ti sound better and hit alittle harder. it will work till i get my new amp and sub

amp- rockford fosgate p6002(300 by 2) i think it has a 18db bass boost but im not to sure. i am running jbl gti120 subs they are alright but i know that there are better. i built my own box. i only have one sub now but the new amp and sub is coming in soon. its a ported box and i reverse mount the sub. it hits hard for what it is. i have never had it cheked for decibles....i guess i could when i get my other sub and amp in. if you want cheap bass boost get a crossover. if you want good sound get a better amp and a signal processor. its a mini computer that decides where to send the signals they make for a real good crisp bass. well any range of sound will be completly changed