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which sub to get out of the 2?

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    which sub to get out of the 2?

    Rockford Fosgate P3D412 (144$) and Alpine SWR-1242D (132$)

    they are both 12" subs and handle 500RMS, and those are the prices i can get them at. i plan on a ported box, and my amp is a Rockford Fosgate P500-2. which sub is best for me?

    the alpine type R as far as i know is great for sound quality, but what about the Rockford?

    i have infinity kappa speakers and components in the front fyi

    Be Clean

    #2
    DAMN! too bad you dont have a class D mono block!
    your amp is only 4 ohms stable on bridge....

    If you get either subs....and if you wire both channels to each coil your only pushing 125w rms....since your amp caint do 2 ohm bridge u wont get the full potential out your subs (those subs anyways)

    sooooo....wrong subs for your amps catagory!!!!!

    look for a sub that is 2ohm dvc and 250 rms peak (500w peak)....thats as much as your gonna get out your amp if your only getting one sub if you bridge them to 4hms....


    OR Get a class D mono block....you will love it better for your subs....I garuntee it!!!!

    heres help if needed for wiring...
    http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161
    I use it all time
    Last edited by MyDianaZ06; 05-27-2009, 03:58 AM.

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      #3
      Originally posted by MyDianaZ06 View Post
      DAMN! too bad you dont have a class D mono block!
      your amp is only 4 ohms stable on bridge....

      If you get either subs....and if you wire both channels to each coil your only pushing 125w rms....since your amp caint do 2 ohm bridge u wont get the full potential out your subs (those subs anyways)

      sooooo....wrong subs for your amps catagory!!!!!

      look for a sub that is 2ohm dvc and 250 rms peak (500w peak)....thats as much as your gonna get out your amp if your only getting one sub if you bridge them to 4hms....


      OR Get a class D mono block....you will love it better for your subs....I garuntee it!!!!

      heres help if needed for wiring...
      http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161
      I use it all time
      wow i'm pretty confused, and i don't get why i can't bridge at 2 ohms when the amp sheet gives specs at 2ohms...
      i have the amp sheet with me. it's an older P500-2 i got from a friend.

      ****
      performance verification certificate
      model p5002
      birth 6/15/04
      rated power 250W RMS X 2 @ 2 Ohms

      power output measured in accordance with cea2006 specs
      227 RMS Watts per channel @ 4 ohms <1% THD+N
      682 Total RMS Watts @ 2 Ohms <1% THD+N all channels combined

      ****

      okay, so i just downloaded an old manual for the amp. bridged my amp can only do 4ohm minumum.

      now from the jl site your referred:

      1 DVC driver with Voice Coils in Series
      Connecting the two voice coils of the driver in series (+ to -) will result in the following impedances:
      Dual-6 Ohm Subwoofer: 12 Ohms
      Dual-4 Ohm Subwoofer: 8 Ohms
      Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 4 Ohms
      Dual-1.5 Ohm Subwoofer: 3 Ohms


      so i need a dual 2ohm subwoofer to get my min. 4ohm right? bridged shouldn't i be getting 454rms? (227x2)
      Last edited by nostringz; 05-27-2009, 05:51 AM.

      Be Clean

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        #4
        The alpine wires up to 4 ohms. It is dual 2 ohms I believe.

        Edit: Nvm that one is dual 4 ohms. You could wire your sub up to one voice coil per channel but I don't know if that amp has a mono setting.
        Last edited by sonikaccord; 05-27-2009, 01:38 PM.

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          #5
          looks like i have to purchase a 2ohm subwoofer, and wire it for 4ohms bridged. (my amp is 2 channels)

          i'm going with alpine because it can handle rms as low as 50RMS up to 500RMS, and the Rockford's rms range is unknown.

          Be Clean

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by nostringz View Post
            looks like i have to purchase a 2ohm subwoofer, and wire it for 4ohms bridged. (my amp is 2 channels)
            Originally posted by MyDianaZ06 View Post
            look for a sub that is 2ohm dvc and 250 rms peak (500w peak)....thats as much as your gonna get out your amp if your only getting one sub if you bridge them to 4hms....
            THATS what I said....

            OOOORRRRR

            get a class D mono block that has more power.....
            mono class d's are WAY better for subs!!!
            Last edited by MyDianaZ06; 05-27-2009, 03:06 PM.

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              #7

              cool right on, thanks for the lesson. this amp was sort of a hand down from a friend that moved on from the tuner scene, so it's what i got. 454rms should be enough to have some BOOOM in my car.

              Be Clean

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by nostringz View Post

                cool right on, thanks for the lesson. this amp was sort of a hand down from a friend that moved on from the tuner scene, so it's what i got. 454rms should be enough to have some BOOOM in my car.

                BRO it will be plenty!!!! I bet you caint wait lol let us know if you have
                any "???" we here for you
                I got four 12's in the trunk of my cb wired to 1ohm to a 5500w amp lol

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by MyDianaZ06 View Post

                  BRO it will be plenty!!!! I bet you caint wait lol let us know if you have
                  any "???" we here for you
                  I got four 12's in the trunk of my cb wired to 1ohm to a 5500w amp lol
                  Really??
                  I want to see this system.

                  YouTube Clicky!!

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by sonikaccord View Post
                    Really??
                    I want to see this system.
                    I need a MR...im too lazy....its nothing special though....

                    I'll take pics as soon as I find my parents camera...my cell phone doesnt work that well....lol thax for the interest btw

                    I had a avic (pioneer flip out) but I sold it... right now I have a shity pioneer HU...does the job()...I want waiting to complete my swap before I get my pioneer double din that I want

                    Last edited by MyDianaZ06; 05-28-2009, 12:38 AM.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by MyDianaZ06 View Post


                      I need a MR...im too lazy....its nothing special though....

                      I'll take pics as soon as I find my parents camera...my cell phone doesnt work that well....lol thax for the interest btw

                      I had a avic (pioneer flip out) but I sold it... right now I have a shity pioneer HU...does the job()...I want waiting to complete my swap before I get my pioneer double din that I want

                      lol but this guy seems to know his ishh cuz i was completely clueless about my amp and what sub to match it with until now. buhhht a pic would be sweet. i'm wondering how to mount it in the trunk now.

                      can i just use an L bracket directly onto the metal of the trunk or do i need a 2x4 or something to make a foundation? theft-deterrant of course!
                      Last edited by nostringz; 05-28-2009, 01:06 AM.

                      Be Clean

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by nostringz View Post
                        lol but this guy seems to know his ishh cuz i was completely clueless about my amp and what sub to match it with until now. buhhht a pic would be sweet. i'm wondering how to mount it in the trunk now.

                        can i just use an L bracket directly onto the metal of the trunk or do i need a 2x4 or something to make a foundation? theft-deterrant of course!
                        idk if your talking about sonikaccord or me....either way sonikaccord knows his shit FO SHO!!!!!

                        I just been around the block many times when it comes to systems...so I know enough....its not rocket science tbh...

                        as for mounting....if your talking about the amp....and trying to mount to where if somebody tried to steal it'll hard for them to try...then yes, you can get some metal screws and drill them through the amps little wholes (for mounting) into the trunk...it'll take some time to figure a good spot if possible...

                        if your talking about the subs.....you can use velcrow so it wont slide everwhere...or what I did was get three pieces of wood and cut the so it'll hold the box in place (the back of the box toward the back seet, two on the side and one toward the trunk lead.....

                        DONT WORRY ABOUT MOUNTING THE SUBS TO THE TRUNK SO THE THIEF WONT STEEL IT....if your just doing a sealed or ported box and do mount it to where its hard for them to steal....the thiefs will just bust your subs up!!!! They do that bs all the time...kind of like when their trying to steal a radio and caint get it out they get a screw driver and stick in the cd slot and fuck it up to shit...
                        I HATE THIEFS....

                        Just get a two way alarm...thats the only hope u got witha system.
                        dont bump in ur hood lol or where your going to be parked for a long time...you should be fine with your alarm.

                        I just mounted my amp on the side of my box!

                        I only got a radio jacked before but it was my fault...I left my stupid doors unlocked one night and the next I went to my car and my door was open and that radio was GONE! lol I hated my self for forgetting to lock my damn doors lol
                        Last edited by MyDianaZ06; 05-28-2009, 04:18 AM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by MyDianaZ06 View Post
                          ...
                          I just mounted my amp on the side of my box!
                          That's not really the best idea. Generally speaking, there is a good bit of flexing and vibrating going on with those boxes. The wood isn't usually that sturdy, and it flexes a good bit when the sub is cranked up. All that fexing and vibrating shakes the crap out of the amp, which in turn starts screwing up the soldered connections inside the amp. Eventually, the resistance in those now broken soldered connections gets too high, then there is a poof, and a cloud of smoke, and then it's not so loud any more, but it stinks a whole lot, and you need a new amp. It's really best to avoid mounting your amplifier on you sub box. The small end of the box is the best place if you HAVE TO mount it to the box, but it's much better to mount the amp somewhere in the car, not on the box.

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                            #14
                            And it gives thieves and "all in one" package.

                            YouTube Clicky!!

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by TomQuick View Post
                              it's much better to mount the amp somewhere in the car, not on the box.
                              True to that. I've seen circuit boards crack in brand new amps due to them being mounted on the box.
                              Originally posted by chessboxer
                              We know these are good cars, but for some reason, all the world wants are freaking civics and tegs. Bleck.
                              Bought From: Slammed4thGen TypeG x2DeevergoteBillKisme

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