Buffers?

[cjv998]

Alright, does anybody use buffers (esp. the random orbital ones) to help wax their cars? I noticed they're pretty cheap, and I bet they would save me a load of time and frustration. Any comments on whether or not I should invest in one? My only concern is messing up the paint by using it improperly, as I've never used one before.

[djcaz_aom]

Type G and now me as well, use the Orbital Buffer from Porter Cable. Check out Type Gs DIY on using it.

[Tnwagn]

Pick you up a PC 7424 or 7336 (pretty much the same, just different counter weights). It is best purchase you can get for your car's finish.

It's best used to polish and compound with. Some people use it for waxing and it greatly increases the ease and decreases the time to wax. However, some still like to wax by hand. It's all a matter of preference.

[Blk EX Coupe]

Go with the porter cable. I've been meaning to buy one for like 3 years now, but I always borrow my friend's PC instead, so I've put off buying one.

[cjv998]

So the only difference between Porter's 7424 and 7336 is the counterweight's weight? I noticed the 7336 (SP) is listed as a "sander with polishing pad" while the 7424 is listed as a true "polisher". Also, any suggestions on where to get one? And what about just getting a Craftsman orbital buffer for $20 (only single-speed)? Is it worth the extra money to get the Porter?

[Tnwagn]

So the only difference between Porter's 7424 and 7336 is the counterweight's weight? I noticed the 7336 (SP) is listed as a "sander with polishing pad" while the 7424 is listed as a true "polisher".

Difference is the counter-weight and the included pad (don't worry, you won't be using it anyway) Don't worry about the list description of either item, they're really the same thing.

Also, any suggestions on where to get one?

There are a few good online distributors that offer combinations of polishers and pads. Autiopia, Autogeek, and many other store offer such packages. You can always just search around for the cheapest price online. Good luck finding one in any store now-a-days.

And what about just getting a Craftsman orbital buffer for $20 (only single-speed)? Is it worth the extra money to get the Porter?

Yes, the $20 one is about as usefull as a brillo pad, but it's much harder to work with. Don't waste $20 on something like that. Save up and do it right.

[Blk EX Coupe]

That 20 dollar one is good for applying wax, but that is about it. It isn't as easy to use on a car as the porter cable. I use to have one until it fell in the trash can.

[TypeG]

i agree that the $20 orbitals aren't good for much else other than wax application. they just don't have the ummph it takes for defect removal and polishing. also, the poter cable has a greater throw, which is what you want.

you shouldn't worry to much about messing up your paint with an orbital buffer, they are very user friendly.

the type of buffer that you can get in trouble with real quick is a high speed buffer, also called a rotory buffer.

the only drawback to a PC is the price, but it is well worth it. you'll see what you were missing without it.

once you learn about different polishing compounds and different pads (cutting, polishing, finishing, ect.) and what they do, then you will be able to make your car look better than you ever thought.

here's a link on using a PC:
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-pc7424.html

and a place to get it:
http://www.porter-cable.com/index.asp?e=547&p=2805

and a good place to buy pads for it:
http://www.lakecountrymfg.com/foampads_var.html

most people go with the 7424, but as previously stated, there isn't alot of difference. later.

[Blk EX Coupe]

The PC is a good starting tool. My first time using a rotary damaged the paint badly. Sadly my accord is the test victim to any new product my friends and I purchase. I should have taken a picture after the rotary to show the damage it created. The second picture is about 6 hours later of correcting rotary damage. My point was buy a porter cable...

Before:

After:

[cjv998]

First off, thanks to everyone for the help so far. I'm glad you have all advised me to steer clear of the $20 Craftsman orbital polisher (I was skeptical upon seeing a buffer for $20 anyway, and in pictures, it even looked cheaply made).

I'm still a tad confused about the pad situation though. The buffer comes with a pad, and I will want more (better) pads. With the "direct attachment" pads, I don't need another backing plate for the polisher, correct? (These will attach just like the pad that came with the polisher?) I guess I'd want to use these to polish and wax, probably to pre-clean too. My current routine goes as follows:

wash (once a month lately, although I'd like to do it more often)
claybar (about every other time I wax, I've heard too often can eat away at paint, since the clay is abrasive)
wax (3-5 times a year, I use Meguiar's Cleaner Wax)

The cleaner wax claims to be a jack-of-all-trades cleaner+polish+sealant/wax, so I bet it isn't as good as using dedicated products for each of those jobs. Nonetheless, this is why I haven't bothered polishing and pre-cleaning...then I saw what a difference it made. One final question: does everyone use the polisher to apply and remove the products, or just one or the other?

(Sorry about the long post, I just want to make sure I know what I'm getting into)

[Blk EX Coupe]

The pad the buffer comes with will be useless, and a new backing plate is required with your new pads. Basically when you order the pads get the kit with a variety and new backing plate.

[GSteg]

nonsense..I find the pad they give you is great for chunkin' in at people.


On the real side, the sucky pad they give you works great if you have a microfiber bonnet to put over it. You can use it to remove wax and it really works great. Do not try to put the MF bonnet directly over the backing plate. You're going to have a hard time with it. So the OEM pad is really good for something!

[GSteg]

Only a rotary could accomplish this . Of course the rotary wont come out perfect the first time, which is why it's used for heavy duty situations. Short of paint burn, the PC will correct halograms made by the rotary. Some pros still use the PC after the rotary for the finishing touches

[Blk EX Coupe]

nonsense..I find the pad they give you is great for chunkin' in at people.


On the real side, the sucky pad they give you works great if you have a microfiber bonnet to put over it. You can use it to remove wax and it really works great. Do not try to put the MF bonnet directly over the backing plate. You're going to have a hard time with it. So the OEM pad is really good for something!

They have kits that come with MF bonnets and the foam pad.

[cjv998]

Speaking of kits, does this seem reasonably priced?

http://www.properautocare.com/74uldemawico.html

$190 for the following items:

7424 DA polisher
6" flexible velcro backing plate
the following pads (6.5", CCS foam, all Lake Country I believe):

2 polishing (white)

1 glazing (black)

1 finishing (red)

3 microfiber cloths (not bonnets)
1 bottle lubricating foam
3 cleaning packets

Basically, when you break down the price, it's like getting a pad and the microfiber cloths for free, versus buying everything separately (where the 7424 is $130, which seems decent based on the other places I saw). I think I just figured out where my tax return is going! It looks like the only stuff I could use in addition to the kit above is a microfiber bonnet or two if I want to remove the product with the buffer (which I may not bother with for now, I can always get them later), some polish/paint cleaner, and some better wax that isn't cleaner wax. Should I bother with a glaze as well, since I have a pad for it?

I'm confused about glazes. From reading this article, it seems like it's the glaze that makes cars look super glossy (like TypeG's, among many others) more than the wax or polish, with the polish smoothing down the surface like a claybar, and the wax sealing the paint (like a sealant?). Is this correct? ...So many different products to learn about!