Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Thinking about Clay Bar and general waxing questions

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 3
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous 1 2 3 template Next
    #1

    Thinking about Clay Bar and general waxing questions

    I'm a newb to clay bar - I've waxed several times and lately have been noticing the application bonnet is getting kind of dirty during the wax application. Doe this sound like a reason for using a clay bar?

    How does it actually work, what is the procedure etc?

    Also, I have a crappy $20 Random Orbital Buffer from Menards that I used a couple of times last summer and got a pretty good shine out of it, but the bonnet's look pretty shitty to me. What kind of pads/bonnets should I be looking for, and where should I buy them?

    Keep in mind my car isn't a show car, but I like to keep it looking good...so no Porter Cable ROB suggestions...
    Tags: None
    #2
    Does the paint feel rough when you run your hand over it? If so clay bar it. The results will amaze you.

    Comment

      #3
      if you need to ask if you should then you answered yourself..yes. do it you will not regret it.

      its like nothing in the world. definition of relaxation.

      Comment

        #4
        I'd pretty much already decided to do it. My questions were really along the lines of application/use procedure, and then what bonnets and wax to use afterwards?

        Comment

          #5
          a claybar application system should come with instructions!

          i've used mother's claybar system with good results. the package comes with a clay bar and mother's detailing liquid (the exact name of the product escapes me right now). in any event, the key is to keep the surface wet/moist while using the claybar.

          i cut the claybar into pieces- 1 for the hood and front bumper, 1 for the roof, 1 for the front quarter panel and door x 2, 1 for the rear quarter panel and half the trunk x 2- a total of 6 pieces. rub each piece into a ball, and go to town. while using the same piece, i occassionally rub it back into a ball, to keep the impurities on the inside and have fresh clay to use against the surface as much as possible.

          i don't use an orbital buffer, so i'm not sure what type of pads you should get.

          a site you may want to check out for tricks and tips: http://www.bettercarcare.com/

          another site i find has very good detailing tips is www.dtmpower.net- the detailing forum: http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=57


          absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.

          Comment

            #6
            sweet, thanks for the info and the links. I'll read through those tomorrow. I've been on roadfly but the folks that are posting on that site are spending $1000's on waxes/polishes/cleaners a year. I just want my car to look good - hell it's parked on the street right now.

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by doylna
              sweet, thanks for the info and the links. I'll read through those tomorrow. I've been on roadfly but the folks that are posting on that site are spending $1000's on waxes/polishes/cleaners a year. I just want my car to look good - hell it's parked on the street right now.
              spend enough to keep the car clean and properly detailed now avoids having to get a new paint job down the road.

              if you ever decide to sell your car, having it properly detailed can make a huge difference in the amount of money you may get for your car.

              it can make a big difference in the way your car looks in online pictures, and thus in the way your car is presented, and in the way in which it is perceived.

              it can keep you happy, knowing your car is looking as immaculate as possible.

              while you may not be willing to shell out the big bucks for the high end items, what you read should give you a sense of the application process and principles involved in the proper cleaning of a car. sometimes you only have time for a quick wash... other times you may have a day or two in order to take the time to thoroughly detail the car.


              absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.

              Comment

                #8
                Appreciate the help, though the paint on the car right now is in good shape, I'll never have it repainted. The car was bought new in MO, spent 10 years in IL and now has about a year on it in the NE. My rear wheel rust spots are appalling, but when the rest of the car is shining and gleaming, you almost can't see the rust (or it's easier to ignore). I'll likely never sell the car, though in 2 years, I'd love to trade it at the BMW dealership on the M6 I'll be buying.

                :sidebar: (and true story) when my folks bought their latest car (a GS400) they took their 16 year old Camry to the dealer, who gave them $1000 for it.

                In any case, I'm trying to learn how to do this correctly now. I've waxed and detailed my car, and my folks' cars more times than I can count, but never used clay, or a swirl remover, but have used Q-tips to clean vents and leather seat creases. I'm not averse to spending the time to do it right, I'm just trying to learn how to do it right.

                Comment

                  #9
                  The dealer probably gave them 1k as a courtesy. Just be careful there were no "extra" charges tacked on

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by NutBucket
                    The dealer probably gave them 1k as a courtesy. Just be careful there were no "extra" charges tacked on
                    Well the $1K was certainly a courtesy, it probably cost them an additional $150 in towing charges to have that piece of crap removed from their lot as quickly as possible.

                    And I'm sure there weren't an additional charges. My father, when buying a other car, got the lowest price from a salesman (after CR research) and then while sitting in the salesman's office, picked up the salesman's phone, and called another dealer and asked them to beat the salesman's price. I guess that's the game you can play when you're bringing a bank check to pay for a car.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      since you got a buffer i say do this, buy some mequiars swirl remover 2.0 and compound the whole car with a terry cloth bonnet...then feel the paint for smoothness...if not then claybar.

                      basically this step will get most of the top crap and expose the bottom layer enough so that its easier to clay, plus it comes out alot nicer. most of the time i dont need to claybar...

                      try to use terry bonnet pads though, i dont like the other pads, they never work out for me. also if you are using a buffer id go with a multi step process instead of a 1 step process to get more shine and more contaminants out of the paint.
                      What makes me laugh about forums, is that no matter how much you try to help someone, they dont take the advice. Go ahead and do it the hard way.

                      You got to respect what you drive, and appreciate what you have, making the best of what you got. and if that means putting CAI, HID's, a phat stereo system, and a idiot in the drivers seat...then so be it!

                      Retro!

                      Hater

                      I love nooBs...They make me look good

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by accordztech
                        since you got a buffer i say do this, buy some mequiars swirl remover 2.0 and compound the whole car with a terry cloth bonnet...then feel the paint for smoothness...if not then claybar.
                        What do you mean compound the whole car? I presume they sell Meguirs Swirt Remover 2.0 at most auto parts stores? Where do you buy your bonnets?

                        basically this step will get most of the top crap and expose the bottom layer enough so that its easier to clay, plus it comes out alot nicer. most of the time i dont need to claybar...
                        I've never used claybar at all and am trying practice. BTW, claybar is sold at autoparts stores too, correct? How much $?

                        try to use terry bonnet pads though, i dont like the other pads, they never work out for me. also if you are using a buffer id go with a multi step process instead of a 1 step process to get more shine and more contaminants out of the paint.
                        What are the steps you'd take then?

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Hello out there. Glad to see a 4th gen Accord Forum out here. Not sure why I didn't find it sooner. I guess this is my unofficial 1st post.

                          Anyway, the steps I'd take (and have taken, and will take again) are:
                          1. Wash & throughly dry
                          2. Inspect car--if you feel a gritty surface (especially on the rocker panels, roof, trunk)
                          it's time to clay the car.
                          3. Swirl marks? Deeper scratches? Time for polish---only on the affected areas. Polishing reduces the depth of the paint. Claying does not. If you have an oribital you can use it, otherwise by hand. By careful and make sure the bonnets you are using are not cross-contaiminated and are clean. Otherwise they themselves can cause further swirl marks.

                          4. Wax, oribital or by hand (I don't have an oribital either). At this point you shouldn't be seeing dirt on the bonnets anymore. Without ever claying you lock in some of the dirt when waxing.

                          If the paint is oxidized, then its time for machine polishing (compounding). Do that first, then inspect and go from there.

                          Also you can check out:
                          http://www.bettercarcare.com/articles.php?articleId=14

                          Or take it to the next level and download the .pdf:
                          http://www.griotsgarage.com/support.jsp
                          '92 Accord LX Sedan--Bordeaux Red Pearl --OEM--279k Daily Driver
                          EX Lip & Alpine OEM single CD Player. No more useless pocket!

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Nice writeup and links. Those are both very helpful sites. I downloaded the PDF - thank god for free printing.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              An easy way to clay your car is to do it while your washing the car, a quality wash will work as a good lube for the clay bar and you kill two birds with one stone. If you have never used a high speed buffer before I dont recomend trying it out on your car you can easily burn through your paint if you sit it one spot to long especially on corners of the car. Go buy a porter cable DA polisher, you can get almost the same quality with out the worry of ruining your paint.

                              Comment

                              Previous 1 2 3 template Next
                              Working...
                              X