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mixing clear coat with paint..

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    #16
    Originally posted by Shadow1 View Post
    ok. cool. so what grit should i use on the clear? how long should i wait for the clear to dry?
    ...

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      #17
      Originally posted by Shadow1 View Post
      ok. cool. so what grit should i use on the clear? how long should i wait for the clear to dry?
      1200 grit is fine. But after you finish wet sanding, you'll need to use rubbing compound to get the shine back. Do not use wax.

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        #18
        Originally posted by jimy View Post
        1200 grit is fine. But after you finish wet sanding, you'll need to use rubbing compound to get the shine back. Do not use wax.
        any type of that you would suggest? and how would i know im done wet sanding?

        what should i use to apply the compound?

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          #19
          What most people do and the correct way to do it is that you wet sand the paint base first to get all the orange peel and debris that have fallen on the base.

          You would then clean the car up so nothing is left on the base. Use a rubbing compound to get the paint nice and shiney. Then you would clear coat it. This is the correct way of painting a car.

          But the other way is fine also too since we don't have a painting booth to spay the base, prep and then go back and clear.

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            #20
            Originally posted by Shadow1 View Post
            any type of that you would suggest? and how would i know im done wet sanding?

            what should i use to apply the compound?
            Originally posted by Shadow1 View Post
            any type of that you would suggest? and how would i know im done wet sanding?

            what should i use to apply the compound?

            3m products works best. A high speed polisher would be best.

            You'll wet sand until you can feel it being smooth. All the little peel and debris would be gone.
            Last edited by jimy; 02-04-2010, 03:57 PM.

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              #21
              Heres a car we did. It was originally tan.


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                #22
                just spray the car with black enamel then to make it shine use thinner!! thats how we had to paint aircraft equipment when i worked at dyncorp international enamel just doesnt hold up as long
                WHITEONWHITE

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by jimy View Post
                  What most people do and the correct way to do it is that you wet sand the paint base first to get all the orange peel and debris that have fallen on the base.

                  You would then clean the car up so nothing is left on the base. Use a rubbing compound to get the paint nice and shiney. Then you would clear coat it. This is the correct way of painting a car.

                  But the other way is fine also too since we don't have a painting booth to spay the base, prep and then go back and clear.
                  Really I've never heard of one person painting a car this way. Do you do this type of work? I dont know why you would ever wax a car after applying the basecoat. Are you trying to fisheye his entire job? The only way you would ever take sandpaper to a car after applying the base is if you have any dirt nibs that have fallen onto the job that are noticable. Before you apply any type of primer or color you should use a wax and grease remover to remove any chemicals on the surface. After that you use a tack rag and run it all over the surface of the job to remove any dirt. So why would you wax basecoat? It doesnt make sense. Basecoat is naturally dull and will continue to be so until you put the clear on then you will see the shine. After your done your clear you can, (but it is not necessary) sand the clear down, any orange peel or dirt nibs with ( I use 1500) and if your not careful even with 1500 you can burn through the clear. You could reclear it repeating the wax and grease remover and tack rag process or you could just buff it. But DO NOT wax basecoat after applying it unless you want fisheyes all over your entire car.
                  -I believe in looking reality straight in the eye and denying it

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                    #24
                    if u r doin this yourself then take your time & don't rush. prep & spray some samples to c what u get. i've been sprayin for 8 yrs & let me tell u, the prep job is the most important thing. shitty prep = shitty paint. the way i spray now is prime over night, sand primer & then spray 2 coats of base allowing each coat to tak dry for 20 min. then come w/ 2 or 3 clear coats & bake it. may have to do some minor touch ups but not much

                    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3222203/5

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                      #25
                      i hear the duplicolor ready mixed stuff is good for beginners and diy peeps heres a link
                      http://www.duplicolor.com/products/paintshop.html
                      already comes mixed and thinned down just prep the car well, spray a base coat, then clear, buff/polish and ur set. im thinking about trying it out. i thinks each can is like $20 or a lil more...

                      Ride List
                      1990 Accord dx coupe - my baby (dsm turbo set up in progress) http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3202853
                      2005 Mazda 6s - daily driver http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3171724(totaled)
                      newest 2006 mazdaspeed 6 http://www.cardomain.com/ride/4073987/2006-mazda-mazda6

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                        #26
                        hero357 has the right idea
                        WHITEONWHITE

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                          #27
                          uhhhhhgggg

                          this may help......

                          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=150457

                          I think i need to make a video...
                          "Self Renewed"

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