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Body roll

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    #16
    Originally posted by deevergote
    You spin the inside tire because you have an open differential. Nothing to do with body roll.
    Um, it has nothing to do with the body roll per se, but it has a lot to do with the front / rear distribution of lateral weight transfer (the 'roll couple'). If you fit a stiffer rear ARB (or softer front) then you increase the % of total sum lateral weight transfer that occurs at the rear axle line and decrease it at the front axle line (the converse is true if you fit a stiffer front ARB etc).

    Note that this doesn't mean that more or less total weight transfer is occuring because of a roll stiffness increase / decrease at either end of the chassis (though the totality of lateral weight transfer will change if the 'G' force increases or decreases, which is likely), just that the front / rear distribution of weight transfer has changed.

    This means that since less lateral weight transfer is occuring at the front end, the inside front contact patch is more heavily loaded than it would be with a softer rear ARB (or stiffer front ARB, or stiffer rear springs , rear dampers etc, though dampers affect transient weight transfer and not 'steady state' weight transfer), and the IF will be more resistant to wheelspin as a result. This results in more front traction whether or not you have an open diff or a LSD, but the affect is stronger with an open differential since a LSD 'artifically' decreases IF wheelspin (with less front weight transfer a LSD would allow even more traction than it could otherwise provide if more front weight transfer occured).

    This is more or less the same dyanmic (front / rear weight transfer distribution) that causes a stiffer rear ARB (etc) to decrease understeer. Note that body roll is not a cause of weight transfer, but rather is a symptom of it.

    The less body roll you have the faster weight transfer will occur (and the chassis will tend to be more responsive, and the less undersirable roll generated camber changes you'll get), but assuming the lateral acceleration remains a constant roll has no affect on how much weight ultimately does transfer (other than from a tiny change in CG location, the reality of which is merely academic due the CG location change being minute).

    When you have more roll stiffness at one end of the chassis than another (by any means, i.e. stiffer ARB, stiffer springs, stiffer damper rates, localised chassis stiffening members such as tower braces etc) then weight transfer at the stiffer end will occur more rapidly than at the softer end, but higher roll stiffness at one end of the chassis will limit body roll in total, not just at the stiffer end of the chassis.

    Originally posted by deevergote
    Quality struts are very important. Good adjustable ones, like Koni Yellows (Sports) are well worth the price.
    X 2
    Last edited by johnl; 02-11-2008, 12:00 AM.
    Regards from Oz,
    John.

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      #17
      Originally posted by C91BLX7
      Struts play the biggest roll in body roll, springs too.
      Struts? Don't you mean anti roll bars?

      Tower braces have a positive affect on roll, but not nearly as much as a decent increase in ARB stiffness. I don't mean to imply that tower braces are unimportant, they have good affects that are more important than their contribution to noticable body roll reduction.
      Regards from Oz,
      John.

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        #18
        i know you dont wanna just throw springs on stock shocks.. they may last for like 2 years or they may last a week.. your stock shocks are for the stock springs... if your gonna put the springs on you need to her shocks too.. and i read somewhere that putting rear struts and sway bars will help more than putting front ones.. like the front stock ones are good and the back is what most of it is... im not a 100 percent sure ill ask my buddy bout it he knows about it but its something like that where the back is where you wanna start first with sway bars and stuff
        Accord SE


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          #19
          the EASIEST way to eliminate bodyroll is to eliminate the amount of wheel travel at each corner.

          so when you are dumped 3-4" you are not going to get much body roll and why? lower center of gravity and there isnt much more space to travel on the strut.

          BUT with body roll, it is easier to predict when the tires are about to break loose. a vehicle without bodyroll, will just slide on you.

          tein basics = 650 bucks.
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            #20
            3-4"

            If he's concerned with bodyroll, im assuming its at a high speed. I wouldnt take any car dropped 3-4" in any high speed turns

            x2 on what everybody else pretty much said. Lowering your car helps the center of gravity. Rear bars, Upper and Lower, and a good FU strut bar will help.

            Progress, SuspensionTechniques and NeuSpeed all make awesome bars. You get what you pay for.

            A good, starting set-up would be a set of the -Koni Sport Yellows- Deev mentioned, and a good FU strut bar(no ebay).

            I cant remember off the top of my head, but theres a Honda or Acura with an excellent Rear Lower Bar. Isnt it the EX Accords or Legends...


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              #21
              body roll is involved at all speeds.

              dumped cars have less bodyroll even tein basics with soft spring rates.
              I <3 G60.

              0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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                #22
                Originally posted by greencb7inkc
                3-4"

                If he's concerned with bodyroll, im assuming its at a high speed. I wouldnt take any car dropped 3-4" in any high speed turns

                x2 on what everybody else pretty much said. Lowering your car helps the center of gravity. Rear bars, Upper and Lower, and a good FU strut bar will help.

                Progress, SuspensionTechniques and NeuSpeed all make awesome bars. You get what you pay for.

                A good, starting set-up would be a set of the -Koni Sport Yellows- Deev mentioned, and a good FU strut bar(no ebay).

                I cant remember off the top of my head, but theres a Honda or Acura with an excellent Rear Lower Bar. Isnt it the EX Accords or Legends...
                The Megan Racing upper strut tower bars are excellent for the money.

                The Vigor has a rear sway bar that we can use. I believe it's 2mm larger.



                How you drive also plays a part in things. If you whip the car around with no idea what you're doing, it'll roll no matter what. You're never going to be flat while making a 90 degree turn at 35mph.






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                  #23
                  Originally posted by deevergote
                  The Vigor has a rear sway bar that we can use. I believe it's 2mm larger.
                  x2...the vigor's is 16mm.

                  1992 Honda Accord Coupe LX

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by The G-Man
                    Not to be an ass, but if you typed in a somewhat coherent sentence with some sort of punctuation I would be more inclined to tell you that a company called Progress makes a good rear sway bar for the CB7 that pretty much eliminates all body roll.

                    yea it cool. sorry about that though i am not the best typer in no but will try to do better. thanks


                    The Race Car

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                      #25
                      That rear sway bar should help out a bit, plus a nice drop will make a huge difference.

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                        #26
                        i'd say get a nice set of eibach springs with kyb or tokico struts/shocks. get a front and rear sway bars and tie bars. that should be good enough

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                          #27
                          front and rear sway bars...

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                            #28
                            The EASIEST way to reduce body roll is to install stiffer anti sway bars.

                            You also might want to check your struts. If body roll is excessive for how you're driving the car, they may be blown. (Excessive as in compared to a good set of struts, not as in "I have a lot of body roll when I take an onramp at 75mph.")
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                              #29
                              get a VIGOR sway bar, if you have an EX accord, they bolt right up w/ not much modification, all you would have to do is enlarge the center rubber brackets from 14mm to 16mm and you'll be set. Its a really nice upgrade, I felt a noticeable difference going from my 14mm EX bar to the Vigor one...less body roll and the steering response was more crisp and precise kinda.

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