I was going 2 get the F22B and go turbo, just 2 be different, and I had a good deal on the motor But the deal fell thru, so I was thinking of using turbo on my F22A1, but I was trying 2 find if anybody knew what type of power I would get with, I/H/E, and a nice turbo. My target horsepower is 250-300, and my target top speed is 170.
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F22A1 Power
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F22A1 Power
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A question on this.... Why would you want to go 170mph? Secondly the bodies on our cars aren't the best cars in the bunch as far as aerodynamics go. If you are going to use your f22a1 Then you are going to need to swap the intake manifold to either an a6, a6 with h22 plentnum, or go with an h23 intake manifold. If you want to make real good amounts of power then build your motor first then boost. To be able to make 250 or 300 horses you can go boost out of the box with a DSM setup and be in the ball park.
In all honesty your best bet would to go in the search portion type turbo or boost. Read up on a few threads before you jump into anything. If you took multiple setups from this site and put them together you can have a monster. Thats just my opinion.Last edited by JDM_CB7_TX; 02-03-2008, 11:55 AM.
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F22b's SUCK, get an H22A JDM engine. Its been discussed before, i think i seen about 7 threads in the past week about this.
And you wont hit 300 HP with a massive overhaul. Get a more stable engine, with a turbo, and upgrade everything... then maybe you can push that... with power comes a hole in your pocket, and money you will never see, and not to mention your gas milage going down.90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!
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Originally posted by js593F22b's SUCK, get an H22A JDM engine. Its been discussed before, i think i seen about 7 threads in the past week about this.
And you wont hit 300 HP with a massive overhaul. Get a more stable engine, with a turbo, and upgrade everything... then maybe you can push that... with power comes a hole in your pocket, and money you will never see, and not to mention your gas milage going down.
Whats so bad about those F22Bs?
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well after the countless posts i read about it, the flow for the head sucks, clearance sucks on them, they are not made as a boost motor... If your searching for power, an H22 motor is way easier to build, and work on, as well as cheaper parts... but hey if you wanna spend the money on a F22B, be my guest, but personally i would never do it.90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!
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woah now... don't mix up the JDM F22B DOHC with the USDM F22B1 SOHC vtec.
It's the F22B1 from the 5th gens that have bad head flow.
I think theres a few guys on here that have boosted F22A/x 's . but going that route it would be wise to rebuild/replace internals.Last edited by Leung; 02-03-2008, 01:14 PM.
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JDM F22B is NOT the F22B1. Please get your information straight before you tell people what they should and should not do. The F22B is the JDM equivalent to the H23. The head design is nearly identical. It flows very well.
You can't have I/H/E with turbo... because you replace the header with the manifold and turbo. Your current intake can act as a cold-side charge pipe, and you'll want to put a filter near the turbo inlet.
There are no places to go 170 around here... please don't do that on public roads anywhere near where I live...
250whp with GOOD turbo parts, GOOD tuning, and a healthy engine is possible on stock internals. 200whp is doable when cutting corners, but who knows how long that will last. If you build the motor, you can make VERY good power (400whp is definitely possible).
There are some people that have topped 400whp on stock internals (such as straightedge) but I wouldn't recommend it... especially not to someone that's just learning about turbo.
The F22A is probably the best choice to start out with for turbo. Many have done the F22B, so it's not THAT original. The F22A has just as much potential with turbo, and the money you save by not swapping will give you that much more money to work with in buying a GOOD turbo (spend that $800 you save from not buying a swap and spend it on a brand new ball-bearing T3/T4 turbo)
Before you do anything at all... research. Turbo is a great way to turn your engine into scrap metal if you do something wrong.
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Originally posted by deevergoteJDM F22B is NOT the F22B1. Please get your information straight before you tell people what they should and should not do. The F22B is the JDM equivalent to the H23. The head design is nearly identical. It flows very well.
You can't have I/H/E with turbo... because you replace the header with the manifold and turbo. Your current intake can act as a cold-side charge pipe, and you'll want to put a filter near the turbo inlet.
There are no places to go 170 around here... please don't do that on public roads anywhere near where I live...
250whp with GOOD turbo parts, GOOD tuning, and a healthy engine is possible on stock internals. 200whp is doable when cutting corners, but who knows how long that will last. If you build the motor, you can make VERY good power (400whp is definitely possible).
There are some people that have topped 400whp on stock internals (such as straightedge) but I wouldn't recommend it... especially not to someone that's just learning about turbo.
The F22A is probably the best choice to start out with for turbo. Many have done the F22B, so it's not THAT original. The F22A has just as much potential with turbo, and the money you save by not swapping will give you that much more money to work with in buying a GOOD turbo (spend that $800 you save from not buying a swap and spend it on a brand new ball-bearing T3/T4 turbo)
Before you do anything at all... research. Turbo is a great way to turn your engine into scrap metal if you do something wrong.90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!
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lol....I agree with deev completely. This topic has been discused in many forums and the same outcome happens. Everyone agrees that the money you will pay for a swap and boost will be greater then what you can use to build slightly and boost. However befor you do anything as Dev and I have said don't jump right in to it do some research. Find the best setup for what you are intending to do. Drag go a l;ittle bit more aggresive with your turbo and tune setup. If it is going to be used as a daily driver be conservative with your tune and turbo selection.
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Swap and boost is only good if you WANT a boosted swap
I would never boost an H22A. I love my H22, but it's going NA (and Bisimoto is proving that even the F22A is capable of making adequate power NA). For turbo, there's really no point in upgrading to an engine with 30 more horsepower... just to force-feed it another 150! For the cost of an F22B, you can get forged rods and pistons for the F22A. With forged rods and pistons, you can make more power from that F22A than you could with a stock F22B. Drop another $1000 into a good sleeve job, and you're going to make 300+ VERY easily.
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Correct me if I am wrong......The H series is great for NA use and the F series is Great for Boost. If I am not mistaken the compression is pretty good for boosting. However, money talk and if you have it then go for what you feel will suits your WANTS.
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NO Honda engine is "great" for boost... but the F series is a bit more forgiving. You CAN boost a high compression engine, but the margin of error is lower. MRX just tuned a stock-block JDM H22A boosted to 13psi... been running great for months.
The H series, due to the high compression (minimal margin for error) and FRM sleeves (limited choices for forged internals without a resleeve... though a resleeve is always smart anyway!) is best suited to NA. Honda's thing is NA anyway...
The F series is good for boost not because it responds any better, but because the compression is lower (more room for error), and most importantly... the motors are very inexpensive. Blow up a stock F22A, and $200 later you're back in the game with another one.
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lol so all of my research is in the ball park. Cool This site is helping me out so much man. Thanks for the clarification on that deev just don't want to go around and misinform anyone. The compression is what really seperates the f series motors apart from the other B and H series..
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