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CV Axle

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    #1

    CV Axle

    I can not get the drivers side axle back in place. I have transmissions end in and it's snug, but I can't get the side that goes into the rotor in.It's also hard as hell to lift the brake rotor back onto the lower control arm. I keep hitting the fork.
    Any tricks I should know?
    Tags: None
    #2
    with the lower control arm disconnected, spin the rotor all the way to the side like you were taking a right turn. then you should be able to bend the end of the cv shaft in that same direction, this will give you more room. should be enough to get cv shaft in part way. sometimes i slam the rotor with the palm of my hand to make it go on the shaft ( after the shaft is part of the way in). you should at least be able to get to the threads for the axle nut. then you can use the axle nut to pull it on the rest of the way. once you got the axle in you should be able to get the assembly onto the lower control arm.


    hope that helped

    Comment

      #3
      I have to disconnect the lower control arm? I didn't read that in any of the DIY'S

      Comment

        #4
        CV Axle

        I have both sides inserted now. When I lift up the axle shaft is still hitting the suspension fork and I can't get enough clearance to attach the hub assembly to the lower control arm. Any ideas??

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by 91 LX
          I have both sides inserted now. When I lift up the axle shaft is still hitting the suspension fork and I can't get enough clearance to attach the hub assembly to the lower control arm. Any ideas??
          future ref:

          when you do axles...

          these are what you need to unbolt:

          A) lower control arm from knuckle ( Ball joint in knuckle )
          B) shock fork from lower control arm ( to provide room to remove axle )
          C) axle bolt
          D) tie rods ( ball joint in knuckle )

          ** the only thing holding on the knuckle at this point is the upper control arm ( ball joint )

          these are what you will need:

          big screw driver or crowbar to pry the axle out

          NOTE: make sure you drain the transaxle...because if you dont drain the oil out of the transaxle...the oil will pour out...

          easy way to fill it back up...

          get a small enough funnel or tube..and fill the trans from the ( breather ) : On top of the trans )

          ( manual trans )

          auto:
          fill from the dipstick hole!


          OH YEAH..and ALWAYS..when you're putting the balljoints ( tierod end and lower control arm ) back into the knuckle...ALWAYS use NEW cotterpins! ( ALWAYS )

          *** steel cotterpins ***

          I will also include...DO NOT take OFF the tierod...if you do..you will completely mess up your toe alignment.
          Last edited by SN2BH22CB7; 12-02-2007, 04:18 PM.
          92 LX. A6 with GUDE bullfrog Cam. M2S4 transmission..Gutted H23 intake mani. The rest you will just have to find out!


          MR Thread:
          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=174586
          My tribute page: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=70489

          Comment

            #6
            yea def don't touch the tierod ends. i just unbolt the uppercontrol arm, the strut bolt at the very bottom and thats it. but with both the wheels off the ground so you can turn them by hand slip one end of the axel into the hole where the strut is and push it in as far ar u can. turn the spindel as far as you can until it goes in. sometimes you have to sream and cuss and use a big hammer but if you do use one PUT THE OLD AXEL NUT ON A LIL WAYS AND HIT THE NUT NOT THE AXEL THREADS.


            the rebuild!
            http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...50#post2073450

            Comment

              #7
              Thanks Chillin! I didn't have the other tire lifited off the ground and therefore could not get the full range of motion. As soon as I got the other tire lifted it fell right in place. DUH!
              Last edited by 91 LX; 12-04-2007, 12:06 AM.

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by SN2BH22CB7
                future ref:

                when you do axles...

                these are what you need to unbolt:

                A) lower control arm from knuckle ( Ball joint in knuckle )
                B) shock fork from lower control arm ( to provide room to remove axle )
                C) axle bolt
                D) tie rods ( ball joint in knuckle )

                ** the only thing holding on the knuckle at this point is the upper control arm ( ball joint )

                these are what you will need:

                big screw driver or crowbar to pry the axle out

                NOTE: make sure you drain the transaxle...because if you dont drain the oil out of the transaxle...the oil will pour out...

                easy way to fill it back up...

                get a small enough funnel or tube..and fill the trans from the ( breather ) : On top of the trans )

                ( manual trans )

                auto:
                fill from the dipstick hole!


                OH YEAH..and ALWAYS..when you're putting the balljoints ( tierod end and lower control arm ) back into the knuckle...ALWAYS use NEW cotterpins! ( ALWAYS )

                *** steel cotterpins ***

                I will also include...DO NOT take OFF the tierod...if you do..you will completely mess up your toe alignment.
                you actualkly can squeeze the axle in the hole of the shock fork with it attached to the LCA.

                it depends on the axle housing diameter and how big of a bitch it also wants to be. it is a hit or miss with me.
                I <3 G60.

                0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                Comment

                  #9
                  not to steal your thunder wed3k, but i wouldnt recommend squeezing the axle through the fork without removing the lower fork bolt...
                  that might work for some, but i can see some guy without mechanical experience doing a number on the boots/joints before he even gets to drive on them by trying to ram an exle through there.
                  take the fork bolt out... pretty easy, and if you break it its like $5 from the dealer. cheaper than a $150+ axle
                  RIP



                  Bought from : LosiRacer2, h22anow

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