Try changing the gasket and check if the throtle seals good in close position.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
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still surging!!!!!
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PLEASE make sure you re-adjust your idle screw by following the recommended FSM procedure (which I go into below)
I fixed my surge by doing this, and mine only did it when it was cold outside and once I went below 25mph...it would start bouncing right when I got below 25mph like clockwork...any way the bouncing (surging) came back...but guess what...that damn screw backed itself out again!!! It was further out then when I adjusted it last time...not even maybe a month ago.
I first was surging...rev to 2k then to 1500 then back and forth...re-adjusted idle to 700...now it's doing it again...pulled the plug on the iacv and it idled (throbbed I should say) at 1100-1200...so I adjusted it again tonight.
NOTE...last time I adjusted it..I don't think the engine was warmed up...so here's what you do
Wait till you've driven it enough for it to be bouncing good.
Then unplug the iacv...open the hood...look at the intake plenum...it's bolted to it...and has a big black cylinder on it's right...which housed the "motor"...unplug it...MIL ILLUMINATES...no worry.
tighten the idle screw until it about to die...THEN back it off to 5-600rpms...kill the car...plug it back in...start it up...good to go.
Now whether you need to reset the ecu after plugging the iacv back in I don't know.
I just re-did this tonight after seeing it was backed out again...if it does it again I'll pookey that damn screw...if it doesn't...I'll assume I didn't do it right the first time and blame user error not the screw...we shall see.
as far as your egr is concerned...the way it works...when you're cruising the ecu operates that vacuum line...which pulls up on the diaphram...which pulls up a pin in the diaphragm...which open a port...which lets in exhaust into your intake (TURBO...ish...not)...now the only way I see a problem here is if the diaphram is cracked or has a hole (which would allow air to go into your intake)
to test that, wait till the car is doing is surging first...then pull the vacuum line off (be careful old lines break easily) and plug the hole with your finger. If it stops the replace egr.
NEXT...what the egr will do (that other thing is almost unheard of) is that the acuator that operates (tells the vacuum line to allow suction to the diaphram) will screw up and the diaphram will open that port at all times...this will kill the car though...not speratic idle.
Also if the egr valve isn't opening that port...as in it's stuck...then you may get a code...and to test if the egr works you can, while the car is OFF...suck on the vacuum line and watch the diaphram go up and down...or pull a vaccum directly to that line and the car should die if idleing.
I doubt it's your egr...unless you've got a leak on the gasket...even then.
check that idle first...next culprit would be the fast idle control..valve...thingy...that's another story we'll get to if the idle adjust doesn't work.Last edited by bcjammerx; 11-20-2007, 02:47 AM.____
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