My Brakes are Scareing me.

[MyCord]

I have a 92 LX coupe, stock suspension/brakes.

Here is a thread I made about possible breaking modifications:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ghlight=brakes

After being on the highway all weekend and having a few close calls and getting pretty scared I've decided I need to do something about these brakes.

My front rotors and at least one caliper where replaced under two years ago.

My breaking sucks, I have to push the pedal in very far to get a noticeable response. My brother told me to get new front pads which I will do, whats a good brand for nissin calipers?

My rear drums are rusted on the outside, pretty bad, does that affect anything or is it just surface rust? My e-brake doesn't hold, I know I can tighten it, but will tightening it hurt my drums? How do I inspect the drums?

There is a slight vibration in the wheel on the highway and a little vibration when braking hard.

Someone mentioned getting a bigger master cylinder and stainless steel break lines, how hard is this to do? How much would it cost?

So overall:
-MINIMAL break response until pushing the pedal fairly hard.
-Rusted rear drums (surface), is this bad?
-Slight vibration in steering wheel on highway and when breaking.
-What's a good break pad brand for nissin calipers?
-Are SS break lines and a master cylinder my next step?
-Should I do anything with the brake fluid?
-How do I inspect the drums?
-Will tightening my e-brake hurt my drums?

The only thing that saved me from causing 2 very searious accidents on the highway was downshifting, and I had a good 50+ft of room. Yea my brakes suck. My brother parallel parked my car for me when I got to Boston and the first thing he said was that my breaks were too soft.

So what are your ideas? Just driving around town and to school is fine for now, but there is no way I'm hitting up any highways until this is fixed. I thought for SURE I was going to crash. Not too fun.

Thanks!

[Dom]

replace the master cylinder and bleed the brakes.

[MyCord]

replace the master cylinder and bleed the brakes.

Ok, I'll defiantly do that then. Thanks.

[deevergote]

Sounds like you need to bleed the system better. A pedal that doesn't respond is usually due to air in your brake lines. Have you replaced your Brake Master Cylinder yet? If not, do that. I've been riding with a bad one for a while now, and it's not smart.

If you have to push the pedal down that far, it's not the pads, rotors, or calipers.


As for pads, Axxis makes some decent ones for Nissin calipers... I know, because I accidentally bought some 93twodoorLX was trying to sell them for me. I think he finally did, though. Go to www.buybrakes.com for good stuff at good prices.


As for the drums, the outside rust shouldn't mean anything. However, you should probably replace the shoes. If the brakes are original, they're probably worthless now (again, I've NEVER done mine...)

[deevergote]

Dammit Dom... you said exactly what I said in one sentence.

[Ralphie]

I have a 92 LX coupe, stock suspension/brakes.

Here is a thread I made about possible breaking modifications:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ghlight=brakes

After being on the highway all weekend and having a few close calls and getting pretty scared I've decided I need to do something about these brakes.

My front rotors and at least one caliper where replaced under two years ago.

My breaking sucks, I have to push the pedal in very far to get a noticeable response. My brother told me to get new front pads which I will do, whats a good brand for nissin calipers?

My rear drums are rusted on the outside, pretty bad, does that affect anything or is it just surface rust? My e-brake doesn't hold, I know I can tighten it, but will tightening it hurt my drums? How do I inspect the drums?

There is a slight vibration in the wheel on the highway and a little vibration when braking hard.

Someone mentioned getting a bigger master cylinder and stainless steel break lines, how hard is this to do? How much would it cost?

So overall:
-MINIMAL break response until pushing the pedal fairly hard.
-Rusted rear drums (surface), is this bad?
-Slight vibration in steering wheel on highway and when breaking.
-What's a good break pad brand for nissin calipers?
-Are SS break lines and a master cylinder my next step?
-Should I do anything with the brake fluid?
-How do I inspect the drums?
-Will tightening my e-brake hurt my drums?

The only thing that saved me from causing 2 very searious accidents on the highway was downshifting, and I had a good 50+ft of room. Yea my brakes suck. My brother parallel parked my car for me when I got to Boston and the first thing he said was that my breaks were too soft.

So what are your ideas? Just driving around town and to school is fine for now, but there is no way I'm hitting up any highways until this is fixed. I thought for SURE I was going to crash. Not too fun.

Thanks!

That car needs to come off the road fucking ASAP.

I dont care what you think and i dont want to hear it.

From this post i can tell your a danger to other drivers. Downshifting should never replace adequate breaks and ill stand by this no matter who chimes in.

First off when is the last time you flushed your system? You said you replaced pads and rotors under 2 years ago? Maybe its time to get new pads and turn/replace your rotors/drums.

Yes rust might just be surface but opening up the drums and inspecting might show you other problems so i would do that.

What do you mean what type of Nissin calipers? That is the only type unless you have Akebono. Figure out what type you have and replace. Same goes for pads, stay OEM trust me youll have no problems.

A new master cylinder and SS brake lines will improve brake performance unless there is another serious underlying problem.

You might need to just bleed your system for air. It could be as simple as that.

I would start inspecting the brake system, fix your ebrake, and drain and flush the system...look for leaks etc.

Good luck.

[3tcRob]

it was said to turn you rotors that is what is cause in the vibrations on brakeing one of your rotors has to much run out

[Fake Thug]

I have a 92 LX coupe, stock suspension/brakes.

Here is a thread I made about possible breaking modifications:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ghlight=brakes

After being on the highway all weekend and having a few close calls and getting pretty scared I've decided I need to do something about these brakes.

My front rotors and at least one caliper where replaced under two years ago.

My breaking sucks, I have to push the pedal in very far to get a noticeable response. My brother told me to get new front pads which I will do, whats a good brand for nissin calipers?

My rear drums are rusted on the outside, pretty bad, does that affect anything or is it just surface rust? My e-brake doesn't hold, I know I can tighten it, but will tightening it hurt my drums? How do I inspect the drums?

There is a slight vibration in the wheel on the highway and a little vibration when braking hard.

Someone mentioned getting a bigger master cylinder and stainless steel break lines, how hard is this to do? How much would it cost?

So overall:
-MINIMAL break response until pushing the pedal fairly hard.
-Rusted rear drums (surface), is this bad?
-Slight vibration in steering wheel on highway and when breaking.
-What's a good break pad brand for nissin calipers?
-Are SS break lines and a master cylinder my next step?
-Should I do anything with the brake fluid?
-How do I inspect the drums?
-Will tightening my e-brake hurt my drums?

The only thing that saved me from causing 2 very searious accidents on the highway was downshifting, and I had a good 50+ft of room. Yea my brakes suck. My brother parallel parked my car for me when I got to Boston and the first thing he said was that my breaks were too soft.

So what are your ideas? Just driving around town and to school is fine for now, but there is no way I'm hitting up any highways until this is fixed. I thought for SURE I was going to crash. Not too fun.

Thanks!

1 rotors are warping
2 Drums/shoes are shot(why your e brake is kaput, but cable could be fubared too)
3 pads are gone
4 possible internal leak in brake system