or could I get a diagnogistic at advanced auto parts or autozone???
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
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h22 cb7 HELP!!!
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Originally posted by xheartlesskingxhey I just read that and I dont really understand, the long blink is = to code 10 and short blink is code 1?? what about all the other codes? I just count how many times it blinks and thats the code??? hlp..thnx
p.s. anyone like da vid?
1342 I believe is the correct order for the plug wires.
As for getting the car tuned, I assume you mean the ECU? Yeah... that's a whole new ballgame... and not what you're dealing with here.
Check the distributor. Use a timing light to check the timing. Make sure the plugs are right. Make sure the plugs are good. Make sure all plugs are getting spark. Do a compression test on all 4 cylinders. Pull those codes and see what's going wrong. The ECU will go into limp mode for certain codes.
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Originally posted by deevergoteExactly. You count the blinks. long long long short short short short pause, repeat. That's code 34. A pause indicates a break between codes (there can be more than one)
1342 I believe is the correct order for the plug wires.
As for getting the car tuned, I assume you mean the ECU? Yeah... that's a whole new ballgame... and not what you're dealing with here.
Check the distributor. Use a timing light to check the timing. Make sure the plugs are right. Make sure the plugs are good. Make sure all plugs are getting spark. Do a compression test on all 4 cylinders. Pull those codes and see what's going wrong. The ECU will go into limp mode for certain codes.
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You shouldn't have to rip out your carpet. The connector is right under the dashboard, easy to get to. Little blue plug, with black tape on it if it's never been used.
If you go to Advanced, they'll just dig that plug out anyway. After your recent experience, I'd suggest you don't let anyone else touch your car! Learn things yourself and do it the right way... At least you'll know it's done right, or if you screwed up, you know what you did, and who is to blame!
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Originally posted by deevergoteYou shouldn't have to rip out your carpet. The connector is right under the dashboard, easy to get to. Little blue plug, with black tape on it if it's never been used.
If you go to Advanced, they'll just dig that plug out anyway. After your recent experience, I'd suggest you don't let anyone else touch your car! Learn things yourself and do it the right way... At least you'll know it's done right, or if you screwed up, you know what you did, and who is to blame!
im running open header. if I bought the stock exhaust manifold would that fix my problem??
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Open header as in a header with no exhaust piping? Or open as in your exhaust ports are bare, and dumping exhaust into your engine bay?
The header is where the oxygen sensor is. The oxygen sensor is required for the ECU to determine how much fuel to add. Without it, it simply dumps enough fuel to keep things safe (limp mode). Probably running WAY rich, and definitely running like crap. If you don't have an exhaust manifold or header, you don't have an oxygen sensor. If you don't have an oxygen sensor, things are going to run like crap.
In addition, all the gasses being dumped are going into the car... that can kill you.
Finally, if you don't have any manifold on there at all, there is no exhaust velocity to help pull spent gasses from the cylinders. A proper header and exhaust system have scavenging effects, where the spent gasses are sucked out. With open ports, or even an open header, you aren't getting this effect. 20% of the gasses in the chamber are probably already burned.
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Originally posted by deevergoteOpen header as in a header with no exhaust piping? Or open as in your exhaust ports are bare, and dumping exhaust into your engine bay?
The header is where the oxygen sensor is. The oxygen sensor is required for the ECU to determine how much fuel to add. Without it, it simply dumps enough fuel to keep things safe (limp mode). Probably running WAY rich, and definitely running like crap. If you don't have an exhaust manifold or header, you don't have an oxygen sensor. If you don't have an oxygen sensor, things are going to run like crap.
In addition, all the gasses being dumped are going into the car... that can kill you.
Finally, if you don't have any manifold on there at all, there is no exhaust velocity to help pull spent gasses from the cylinders. A proper header and exhaust system have scavenging effects, where the spent gasses are sucked out. With open ports, or even an open header, you aren't getting this effect. 20% of the gasses in the chamber are probably already burned.
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Do it yourself man! Seriously, it bolts on. Anyone you ask to put it on for you will overcharge, knowing that you know nothing about your car.
Also, if the junkyard doesn't have it right away, you might be better off getting a cheap header from ebay. If you can find a decent price on a Megan Racing header, those are pretty decent. If you're going to spend $100 or more, might as well get something better than a USDM manifold (the JDM piece is a bit better...)
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you dont have everythig hooked up properly and your wondering why the car isnt running right? ahahahaha
having a shop that doesnt know what thier doing put a motor in for you is stupid. not knowing what has to be done to make sure they do it right is stupid. do things yourself like deev said. it might take longer you might brake something but in the end youll know what your doing and that makes all the diference. or you can just keep paying good money to idiots that dont know what thir doing. your choice
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Originally posted by Dani Filthyou dont have everythig hooked up properly and your wondering why the car isnt running right? ahahahaha
having a shop that doesnt know what thier doing put a motor in for you is stupid. not knowing what has to be done to make sure they do it right is stupid. do things yourself like deev said. it might take longer you might brake something but in the end youll know what your doing and that makes all the diference. or you can just keep paying good money to idiots that dont know what thir doing. your choice
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Yeah, check that check engine light and see what codes it gives you.
Also, when you check the CEL for codes, remember that after it gets done spewing out a code, (i.e. long-long-short-short-short for 23) continue checking for codes. If you have more than one check engine light code, it'll flash out the next code several seconds after the first code. Keep doing that until you get back to the first check engine light code, just to make sure you've checked them all.
So for example, it might flash...
long-long-short-short-short <3 second pause> long-long-long-short-short-short <3 second pause> long-long-short-short-short
In that case it would be 23, 33, and then 23 again. Once you see that its repeating the first code, you know you've checked all the codes the ecu stored.
I just made up those codes by the way, so don't expect to being seeing those precise flashes.
Also, get that header and downpipe! I'm thinking you might want to get on that shop's asses and bug them to get your car fully functional. Dunno tho, its up to you.
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Originally posted by xheartlesskingxWell you are acting like I knew the shop was gonna fuck up before I brought it there. I would've done the swap myself IF I DIDNT HAVE A LIFE. I have other important shit to do. The people who did the swap SAID they could do the swap. In my area there isnt much tuner business going on for me to go shopping around. So since you dont kno the whole story u shouldnt really make those assumptions.
you dont need to not have a life to do a swap especially the h22 swap. how long did the shop have it? how long has it been down since? how much longer will the car be down. you cant drive it with open exhaust ports. if you did it yourself it would take maybe 2 weeks if you knew nothing at all. people on here like cpmike can do a swap in under 8 hours and have it run right.
a car is not a mystery. mechanics are not gods. most of them are morons from my experience. most of the members here probably know more about the cb7 than any mechanic out there. stop acting so helpless and grab a wrench. people here will gladly help but its damn annoying to tell you what you need and then tell you what it will cost. not many people on here know what it will cost because they just do it themselves. if you arent willing to do it yourself then you should be prepared to spend a lot of money because thats what its going to cost. buy a book and spend a little time. you seem like a smart kid. there are people on here that cant seem to figure out how to work a keyboard and they can do an engine swap. your already ahead of the game
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