Well i was leakin oil like a mother a few days ago, so me and a buddy repalced the pan gasket, went to synthetic oil, damn nice, accels smoother now, got way more power, and great gas milage. So here is the problem, Im still leakin a bit. I got under the car, tightened the bolts for the pan a bit more, cleaned it off with brake clean, and started it, in idle, there was NO leaks from the pan that was visible. I went out a few mins ago, and i got a leak again? (wtf?) Is it possible that the crank seal or timing belt cover seal went at the same time as the pan gasket? I did put a thin layer or RTV on the ribbed side of the gasket for the pan, and it is sealing properly, but its dripping onto the pan, from the crank (driver side) to the middle lower part of the pan... Any suggestions?
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90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO! -
i can only think of two places that these engines tend to leak from, the main seal where you have to remove the tranny to replace and the infamous crank shaft seal.
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it could be any of the front seals leaking.. the front crank seal or balancer shaft seal. either way.. probably needs replaced too !!
Originally posted by DevergoteComment
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Was it difficult to replace the oil pan gasket? Coz I need to replace mine, too. I had my timing belt done a month ago and it took off most of the leaks. But I still have one or two drops of oil once the car is parked. The mechanic said oil pan gasket and transmission is where the rest of the leaking is coming from.Comment
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Well, i cleaned it up, and its still doing it, im thiinking the crank seal, or hte ballancer seal... they sound accurate because if it was the pan gasket, it would be leaking far more then that. How hard is it to get the crank pylley off to replace that seal, as well as the ballancer? I hear the ballancers themselves are bitches to get off, you minus well replace the pump if your going through all that already right? Is there an actuall writeup on how to do the water pump? I was hoping to do it this weekend, but i couldnt exactly do it.
thanks muchly
And no, the pan gasket was easy as hell, just get a decent one from local retailer (fel-pro or something), make sure you put **some** rtv on the ribbed edges when you go to slap it back on, you need to remove the downpipe as well, if you do that, make sure you can get those nuts back on, mine snapped, im buying headers next weekend.90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!Comment
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You should first verify if its the rear main, front main, or balancer shaft.
...adjust accordinglyComment
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The rear main (split the tranny to get to seal) is fine, that one does not leak at all, its the one near the driver side of the oil pan (outer crank seal) or the ballancer shaft. I know that for sure, there is NO leaking at all from the tranny lines, or where the tranny meets the engine. Im buying the seal tomorrow, any recomendations on how to get the crank pulley off to replace this seal, i had some hard times getting it off on my previous car.90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!Comment
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the best way and easiest is to buy the tool to take the crank pulley off.. this is if you don't have access to air tools.. !!! not hard to replace these seals.. get a service manual from your local parts store and just follow the instructions. just be patient and take your time and make sure everything is lined up right and good and tight.
Originally posted by DevergoteComment
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Haha, i have most of the air tools in the world that a mechanic would have. Every tool is at my disposal. What im curious about is if my impact is going to take off the bolt olding the crank pulley on, or if i need bigger lines, and higher compression gun, and if thats the case, the engine just might turn over constantly. Im gonna get a haynes today, i really hope they cover this topic.90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!Comment
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So i got my crank seal today, 7 bucks lol... wow, its small. I didnt think it was going to be THAT small. its like 2 inches in diameter with the metal spring type thing on it. So here is the question, Whats the common procedudre to take that bitch out? I hear the crank pulley is on there tight, so im going to haul on that tonight, get the seal in there, and have it all back togethter in a few hours. Anyone got some tips? First time i did this on a honda.90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!Comment
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If you are gonna replace the crank seal, I would go ahead and replace the balance shaft seal and the cam seal.
I had a similar leak recently and thought it was balance shaft seal but ended up being the cam seals. They're all cheap and if you gonna take crank pulley and timing belt off. you might as well replace them all.
Post count is not = to experience rating
F22B DOHCComment
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is the harm ballancer hard to take off if your already pushing that much aside, i heard you need to take out the AC unit, P/S alternator... etc... is that true?90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!Comment
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So im leakin like a bitch again, from what i hear i toasted the oil pan gasket, so i need to warranty it, and get a new one... /sigh90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!Comment
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