I need new front disc brakes and pads, I'm not looking for slots or drilled disc some basic would do fine.. any suggestions
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What are the best disc & brake pads ?
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brembo blank rotors and a set of not sure if its green or red stuff pads or some AEM pads or Raybestos if you want oem. OH but also make sure you calipers are Nissin or Akebono. if there Nissin they will say the word Nissin if there Akebono there will be I believe 3 little triangles in a little circle correct me if im wrong please.
ninja edit: and since you will have your rotors off check out your wheel bearings it might be a good time to replace them while you have everything offOriginally posted by jboycei f'd this girl last night i hadnt seen in a while...used to be cute, but when i had her naked lying on my bed i noticed she had gained alot of weight and looked like a manatee rolling around on my bed.
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seems like my rotors are warped (steering shake with hard braking)
so Im also in need of oem blanks.
i dont know but it seems like my mr2's rotors were cheaper than the accord. I mean the accord should be cheaper because there are tons of them as opposed to mr2's and more parts produced = cheaper.
I bought 4 rotors for the toyota for 20 a piece reybestos oem. but pep buys is saying 40 each for the accord!1993 Honda Accord EX-R Coupe Granada Black Pearl
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serious talk... duhhhhhhh
some of you guys are talking about really high dollar stuff, brembo and willwood... your already in the $500 plus range just for 2 front basic rotors (im not sure what blanks run, but im sure their not to far behind) and i agree, these are a damn fine product, but i belive my friend up top there is asking about a more cost effective way to gain an advantage... if this is the case, (and im not taking anything away from anyone here) but it would probibly be a better route if he purchased two brand new factory OEM (this means actully going to HONDA) rotors, and mating them with a trusted brand of low-temp ceramic pads (i.e; bosh or i think the "green stuff" pads that 92cb7accord was talking about)
keep in mind, the higher you go in temp rating(i.e. red stuff) the less effective your budget will be, and they will certinaly warp your rotors, and ware down your pads quicker, "bear" (i think) makes a very good pad to, i dont use them personaly, but i will say, their reputation is well justified!
the main goal is to be as cost effective as possible, while attempting to meet the demands of your vehical, now this is were ppl. screw up alot, b/c of course everyone wants "the best" or "race quality" or whatever summit is braggin' about at the time, or because ppl. will over exadurate the deemands of their vehical... this is no good... actully, the BEST planing you can do is relitive to how much homework that person puts into his project, but even more so, to the practicality of the application; and the time spent on it! NOT RUSHED is the key! the fact is, you donnot need to spend hundreds of dollars into the thousends to get top-quality performance, just a little knowledge, a bit of cunning, and the willingness ( <--i know i spelled that wrong) to except and learn where most people dont will get you a long way... the more you know about a system, how it works, and the nature of it, the better armed youll be! good luck my friend!me... talking to service-writers
the look on their face
moments after that conversation
there! i know i feel better
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I just got myself some Crossdrilled slotted brakes, and performance brake pads - Do yourself a favor, replace the calipers while your doing EVERYTHING, avoid old parts - I was going to work, and my pass brake caliper lew out on me, white smoke everywhere sucks, had to change it in a 7-11 parking lot /sigh.
While were on the brake topic here, Which calipers are better, Nissin, or Akebono? I have the Akebono ones right now, but im going to be getting a rear setup soon, just lookin for best results.90 Accord EX F22a1 Auto R.I.P.
2011 Mazda 3 Hatch 2.5L GS sport HELLO!
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Originally posted by Mjfan12seems like my rotors are warped (steering shake with hard braking)
so Im also in need of oem blanks.
i dont know but it seems like my mr2's rotors were cheaper than the accord. I mean the accord should be cheaper because there are tons of them as opposed to mr2's and more parts produced = cheaper.
I bought 4 rotors for the toyota for 20 a piece reybestos oem. but pep buys is saying 40 each for the accord!
logic doesn't apply to car parts."As far as the prog references go, we embrace them. However, we would prefer our new moniker, which is a Mulligan stew of progressive rock, Bulgarian folk metal, rock ’n’ roll, ’80s disco and Christian rap that we like to call Munge." (Maynard James Keenan cited in Boston Herald, 2006)
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pads matter more than rotors in this case. stock rotors will keep themselves cool enough, you just need some quality pads ($62 shipped, http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/pr...el_text=accord) to avoid brake fade.
brake fade is when the pads get a bit too hot and the outer layer vaporizes a bit, causing a layer of gas to form between the pad and rotor, which makes it float and not bite and that's when it feels like the brakes just aren't working no matter how hard you push.
go stand on 2 basketballs (one under each foot) and see how easy it is to run across the yard.
you fall. same principle as brake fade (too little friction and control)
you can get honda to turn your rotors on the car and don't have to remove them if you wanted. you can also take them off yourself and take them somewhere to have them turned. a LOT of places will tell you shit about how they're too thin, but there is a minimum thickness stamped on the inner rim of every rotor, and with a brake mic, they can KNOW if they're too thin or not. most just wanna sell you rotors and nothing more. i'd avoid chain stores. they will basically refuse to turn anyone's rotors. just to fuck with them, i took a set of 1 month old rotors up there that i had put on a car. they said they were too thin and i laughed and walked away. i figured that was the reply i'd get.
small stores will normally still do it though. they're not all crooked at least. MOST are, sadly."As far as the prog references go, we embrace them. However, we would prefer our new moniker, which is a Mulligan stew of progressive rock, Bulgarian folk metal, rock ’n’ roll, ’80s disco and Christian rap that we like to call Munge." (Maynard James Keenan cited in Boston Herald, 2006)
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There is no such thing as the best. I can list really high dollar stuff to where people used just minor stuff and improved braking. Cross drilled/slotted does not always mean "high performance". You can do jus as well with a balnk rotor, good pads, and some ss lines. The main difference is brake pads. The disk well all of it is mostly the same just diameters different and patterns drilled/engraved into it.
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Originally posted by NAiL05There is no such thing as the best. I can list really high dollar stuff to where people used just minor stuff and improved braking. Cross drilled/slotted does not always mean "high performance". You can do jus as well with a balnk rotor, good pads, and some ss lines. The main difference is brake pads. The disk well all of it is mostly the same just diameters different and patterns drilled/engraved into it.
a lot of rotor designs don't dissipate heat worth a crap either, even though they are supposed to. kinda like how some wings don't help aerodynamics at all and just hurt them."As far as the prog references go, we embrace them. However, we would prefer our new moniker, which is a Mulligan stew of progressive rock, Bulgarian folk metal, rock ’n’ roll, ’80s disco and Christian rap that we like to call Munge." (Maynard James Keenan cited in Boston Herald, 2006)
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