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Drivers Power Window dies UP

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    #1

    Drivers Power Window dies UP

    I have a wierd issue in my 93 sedans drivers door window...

    The LH power window motor works fine -- so long as it's not in the door. Put it into the door and bolt it up, even losely, it will work fine so long as it doesn't go to the fully up position. It will blow the fuse once in the fully up position. Remove the bolts and just let it sit in the door...and it will go down fine. (I inserted a wire instead of a fuse for the time being..)

    if the regulator is bolted in loosely, and you smack the inner door pannel around, there are visible sparks from the 10mm bolts/door area.

    Any ideas? Tried 2 different control switches, same problem. This is a brand new window regulator as the old ones gears were stripped. I am contemplating swapping the door wiring harnesses as I do have anther of those.

    and..anyone know where to get the door weather stripping? THANKS!
    Tags: None
    #2
    First things first, you do not replace a fuse with a piece of wire. The fuse is there for a reason, its called circuit protection. Obviously you have an issue that needs to be addressed. If you do have a brand new regulator as you stated then I suggest that you look into replacing the run channel, the rubber track that the window rides in, or you can spray the run channel down with a light film of silicone spray to see if this help resolves your problem.

    edit: You can purchase the run channel at either your local Honda dealer or try www.hondaautomotiveparts.com. I heard that they have decent pricing as well.
    JDM H22A LSD Powered 92 Accord
    193.9 HP, 149.5 TQ
    Skunk2 Pro Intake Manifold, Custom Header with 2.5in. mandrel bent exhuast
    Accuracy Automotive-757-548-9227

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      #3
      So yes, normally you wouldn't stick some wire to replace a fuse...but in trouble shooting mode...the wire saves money on blown fuses.

      The run channels are not the issue. So long as the window doesn't make it fully closed (up), it runs fine. With or without the glass installed.

      So..there's something else going on, most likely a short in the wiring harness that I haven't found yet.
      Once I find the solution...I'll see if I can post up what it was so if someone else runs into the issue, they'll be able to find an answer.

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        #4
        I have managed to fix this finally..

        Couldn't find a short in the wire harness, and didn't feel like looking too much more for it. I've isolated the power window regulator. Drilled out the mounting holes a bit more, and inserted plastic grommets with stand offs to keep the metal from touching. (duct tape over metal as well.)
        Works swimmingly well.

        Also fixed the track alignment and put some lubricant into the track to make it move easier. No more blown 20amp fuses It's great!

        Hope my GF's daughters enjoy the car as they will be spending 2 yrs in it each.
        Last edited by Rahhstah; 04-02-2007, 11:34 AM.

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          #5
          Well, it's always fun to follow up a few weeks later... The window again died after blowing a fuse when it went up and one of my grommets had failed, so, the grommet idea wasn't a permanent solution.

          I replaced the door wiring harness, same problem. Tried a new switch same problem. So I changed the engine compartment fuse bank with a spare I happen to have (parts cars are a great idea!) and the problem went away. So I was thinking maybe it was a bad relay...so I put the original back in and swapped around relays and other items.... nothing worked but the fuse block from my parts car. Problem solved... never heard of a fuse bank going bad - and I don't see a way to take that apart to find out what is wrong with it. I guess it would be useful in a non-power window car.
          and..if anyone else problems with their power windows....don't discount the fuse bank in the engine bay as the source of your problems.

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