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ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!

Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956

Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)

Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.

These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.

1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.

2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.

3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.

4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.

The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.

The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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Newbie questions

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    Newbie questions

    I would like to start by Saying hello, and thanking whoever started this forum it is really a goldmine of information. As for my intro I'm CNCTOOLTEK and as the name implies I work on cnc machine tools. I have owned Honda cars in the past and have been amazed with their dependability. My first Accord, an 86 model had close to 300k on it when I sold it. The only reason I had to get rid of it was that I had to have a truck.
    So-- now my reason for logging in. My son just graduated (yeah thats right I'm an old dude) and I found a cheap ($1000.) 91 Accord to get him to work. After a test drive we knew that this car was in need of a brake job in a major way, an easy fix so I thought. When to my horror we couldn't remove the hubs or rotors, I started scouring the web for info. We found that the knuckle must be removed to pull the hub and rotor. I then came across a thread that said that by using a slide hammer you could seperate the bearing in the hub, somewhat risky but wort it if you were not up for dis-assembling the front end of the car. Suprisingly it worked as advertised. Total cost for the front brake job (new rotors - pads - caliper rebuild kits and brake fluid ) with AutoZone parts was right at $100.00 and it stops just great.
    Now comes some more technical problems
    We're getting the CEL light. Following the info from this site I found we were gettin a code 14 and a code 3. More digging and found the IACV might be the problem. We cleaned the IACV and to be honest it wasn't all that dirty.
    We reset the OBD and after driving for about 10-15 min. CEL comes back on. Pulled codes again and we get code 4 and 3.
    So now I guess I'll have to get a manifold pressure sensor but why would i get a code 4????
    The only thing I can figure is we did use some de-greaser and wash the engine off. I did notice that the tach bounced around for a while. I figured that some water got into the distributor cap or some of the plugs.
    Anybody have some tips on this ?
    Thanks

    #2
    Originally posted by cnctooltek
    I would like to start by Saying hello, and thanking whoever started this forum it is really a goldmine of information. As for my intro I'm CNCTOOLTEK and as the name implies I work on cnc machine tools. I have owned Honda cars in the past and have been amazed with their dependability. My first Accord, an 86 model had close to 300k on it when I sold it. The only reason I had to get rid of it was that I had to have a truck.
    So-- now my reason for logging in. My son just graduated (yeah thats right I'm an old dude) and I found a cheap ($1000.) 91 Accord to get him to work. After a test drive we knew that this car was in need of a brake job in a major way, an easy fix so I thought. When to my horror we couldn't remove the hubs or rotors, I started scouring the web for info. We found that the knuckle must be removed to pull the hub and rotor. I then came across a thread that said that by using a slide hammer you could seperate the bearing in the hub, somewhat risky but wort it if you were not up for dis-assembling the front end of the car. Suprisingly it worked as advertised. Total cost for the front brake job (new rotors - pads - caliper rebuild kits and brake fluid ) with AutoZone parts was right at $100.00 and it stops just great.
    Now comes some more technical problems
    We're getting the CEL light. Following the info from this site I found we were gettin a code 14 and a code 3. More digging and found the IACV might be the problem. We cleaned the IACV and to be honest it wasn't all that dirty.
    We reset the OBD and after driving for about 10-15 min. CEL comes back on. Pulled codes again and we get code 4 and 3.
    So now I guess I'll have to get a manifold pressure sensor but why would i get a code 4????
    The only thing I can figure is we did use some de-greaser and wash the engine off. I did notice that the tach bounced around for a while. I figured that some water got into the distributor cap or some of the plugs.
    Anybody have some tips on this ?
    Thanks
    check your distibutor and clean it that may solve ur tach problem
    WILL TRADE THIS ACCORD FOR EG Parts Or a d16z6 Head Or Complete Motor www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=69851

    Comment


      #3
      Ouch tach bouncing around is the ignitor. Does it fluctuate throughout the whole RPM band? I would try and dry off the dizzy and crap. When you washed the motor did you let it dry off completely first? Usually thats what I would do. Plus you need to cover electrical parts such as the distributor and such when cleaning. But you can try letting the stuff dry out and see if that kinda helps. But then your code 4 is the CKP sensor which could be causing the map to kick on which is also located in the distributor. BTW CNC is the shit haha I wished I knew how to operate one of those.

      The New-ish Ride
      My old Ride
      Hear my Vtak!!!
      MK3 Member #3
      I piss off people for fun.
      IA 08 Sunburn Victim #1

      Comment


        #4
        More info

        Ok I might be reading the flashes wrong.
        after jumpering the connector and turning the key I get 4 flashes about 1 second apart then a pause and then 3 rapid flashes then a pause and then it repeats. would that be a 4 and a 3 or a 43 ????
        Please forgive my ignorance

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