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For all those with idle problems

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    #1

    For all those with idle problems

    Hey guys, I wanted to post this because i am tired of seeing the same thing over and over, "Help idle problems" or "My idle is revving back and forth" I have looked up a picture to show you all on how to fix the problem. Down below is a picture showing the intake manifold.

    If you look at group #8-has numbers 3,9,19,26- thats is whats call the fast idle valve. As a honda tech standard on paper this is how you correct the problem.
    1) Start the engine
    2) remove the cover of the idle valve by the two screws
    3) Push your finger on the valve seat area-the cone shaped object inside- and make sure that there is airflow with the engin cold
    * If not, replace the fast idle valve and retest
    4) Warm up the engine (cooling fans come on twice)
    5) Check that the valve is completely closed. If not, air suction can be felt (by putting your hand over the top) in the valve seat area.
    * If any suction is felt, the valve is leaking. Replace the fast idle valve and recheck


    To help out even further, if you having a surging problem there is a ring around the air bypass valve. turnit to the left to stop the surging.

    Thanks
    Anton
    1)92 Accord lx - I/E w/ valves, springs and retainers. H22 bored to h23 not goin in this summer.--Totaled
    2)92 Accord Ex - I/E and loving the sound.
    3)89 Integra Lx - loving the new old-school.


    ITS NOT HOW MUCH HORSEPOWER YOU HAVE, ITS HOW MUCH POWER YOUR HORSES CAN MAKE
    Now serving the Red, White and Blue under the U.S.A.F
    Now Working at.......Dyess AFB
    Tags: None
    #2
    Here below is a picture of the intake manifold for the h series motor. I beleive the mainfold has the same characteristics for the f22 and f20 motors. If there is a difference, please pm me and i will post different. The fast idle valve is refered to #13 in the picture
    1)92 Accord lx - I/E w/ valves, springs and retainers. H22 bored to h23 not goin in this summer.--Totaled
    2)92 Accord Ex - I/E and loving the sound.
    3)89 Integra Lx - loving the new old-school.


    ITS NOT HOW MUCH HORSEPOWER YOU HAVE, ITS HOW MUCH POWER YOUR HORSES CAN MAKE
    Now serving the Red, White and Blue under the U.S.A.F
    Now Working at.......Dyess AFB

    Comment

      #3
      that would bring it to normal idleing right? even if its warming up?

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by elositocandela
        that would bring it to normal idleing right? even if its warming up?
        yes once it closes, the idle will start dropping to around 800 which the stock idle should be set at.
        1)92 Accord lx - I/E w/ valves, springs and retainers. H22 bored to h23 not goin in this summer.--Totaled
        2)92 Accord Ex - I/E and loving the sound.
        3)89 Integra Lx - loving the new old-school.


        ITS NOT HOW MUCH HORSEPOWER YOU HAVE, ITS HOW MUCH POWER YOUR HORSES CAN MAKE
        Now serving the Red, White and Blue under the U.S.A.F
        Now Working at.......Dyess AFB

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by yeamans17
          lets not forget to check vacuum lines for leaks, pcv line, and coolant level as well, as these are all things that lead to funky idle in our cars
          very true, but checking this first breaks downs on what it could be.
          1)92 Accord lx - I/E w/ valves, springs and retainers. H22 bored to h23 not goin in this summer.--Totaled
          2)92 Accord Ex - I/E and loving the sound.
          3)89 Integra Lx - loving the new old-school.


          ITS NOT HOW MUCH HORSEPOWER YOU HAVE, ITS HOW MUCH POWER YOUR HORSES CAN MAKE
          Now serving the Red, White and Blue under the U.S.A.F
          Now Working at.......Dyess AFB

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by DaBzzMn
            Replace the fast idle valve and recheck
            Whoa, whoa, whoa.....that valve is expensive and before anyone goes out to buy a new valve try to tighten it first. Open up the top of the valve and put a screwdriver into one of the cuts on either side of the valve and turn it clockwise in order to see if its loose. It should be tight. I used two screwdrivers- one in each cut and turned them both at the same time.
            Attached Files

            Comment

              #7
              thanks i should check it one of these days

              Comment

                #8
                thanks. this is exactly what i need.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by arctichonda
                  Whoa, whoa, whoa.....that valve is expensive and before anyone goes out to buy a new valve try to tighten it first. Open up the top of the valve and put a screwdriver into one of the cuts on either side of the valve and turn it clockwise in order to see if its loose. It should be tight. I used two screwdrivers- one in each cut and turned them both at the same time.
                  just like he said....thats how i fixed mine!
                  Project M3 - http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=157903
                  -(B-Pillar Bar Originator)-

                  Comment

                    #10
                    I just tried it and it worked thanks

                    Click for my Member's Ride Thread
                    UPDATED NEW PICS!!!

                    Comment

                      #11
                      ya i jus t dis he fast idle valve thing an it worked out great white cap was loose like a bitch n i tightined it shyt an it work saved me money now i can get my clutch!

                      thx alot man!

                      Comment

                        #12
                        What happens if I have a Skunk2 Intake manifold and a Holley throttle body?? I don't even have a fast idle valve.

                        My CB7 is now ***FOR SALE***

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Great idea posting the pics, because it should solve the problem for most, but this fix doesn't work for everyone. Last winter, I had to replace the IAC valve (Group 15 on the F-series intake diagram) to fix my idling problem. THAT is the expesive one to replace - $240 for the part at the dealer. The FICV is around $70. I know because I replaced the FICV first, and it didn't make the problem go away.

                          So, if anyone is pulling their hair out because adjusting or replacing the FICV doesn't eliminate their idling problem, and cleaning the IACV has no effect, they might need to replace the IACV, assuming no other vacuum leaks are present. AND, the only way to be sure the IACV or FICV replacement you get is going to work (and work for years) is to buy NEW, not used. Do it right the first time.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            i have the same problem and i checked everything and nothing is working

                            Comment

                              #15
                              idle drop when A/C kick on

                              or should I say when the compressor kicks on....N/E clue what controls the idle speed when A/C kicks on?? how to fix??

                              TIA

                              scocar

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