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Q about camber kit

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    Q about camber kit

    does anyone have any suggestions to what company i should go with for a front camber kit?

    #2
    The most common types are the anchor bolt and the adjustable (sliding) ball-joint type. I prefer the balljoint type, I have the SPC balljoints in the front and I love them. I've heard mixed stories about the anchor bolts.

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      #3
      i would go ebay
      the green bean

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        #4
        Yeah SPC is a pretty good brand. I have them on my Accord (in the front) for over 2 yrs and its fine. Also just to check, you’re using metal washers (find them at a local hardware store like Home Depot) right? Cheap and works perfect on the back wheels of the Accords! Aight, laters.
        Hi

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          #5
          do the balljoint camber kits creak at all when its cold? because i got the ones that mount on the ends of the arms and they creak like crazy whenever it gets below 60 degrees outside. BTW, my balljoints upper and lower were all replaced about a year ago.

          member's ride thread
          93' EX Coupe H22A w/ P2T4 Sir 5spd 191whp 155 wtq
          99' Lexus LS400 157k VVTi V8 gets up & goes...new DD
          91 Accord SE 176k
          97' Honda Odyssey 199k miles...$485 spare van for my parents

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            #6
            I have the bolts. I had no problem with them other than the control arm rubs against the frame. But that is no longer a problem after a few hard bumps.

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              #7
              this thread is making me wonder if i really want a camber kit...they sound like trouble
              the green bean

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                #8
                ^Well camber kits aren't that bad, I got mine b/c my CB seemed to over-react to lowering, I had alot of negative camber, so I got the SPC's to greatly lessen the camber. I do still have some negative camber all around and my SPC's are maxed out @ 3* of pos. adjustment!

                Mine have never creaked ever in the cold, or at all. They've been on since May this year and have seen prob. 8-9K miles.

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                  #9
                  I run the SRE ball joint type, good stuff if your gonna be running a drop. There not to much trouble if you have a pickle fork. Otherwise it will be hell.
                  150 off ebay shipped, pretty quite and its always cold here (WI ftw). Only thing is when there is alot of travel in the rear it makes a clunking noise. I think it has to do with the rubber mount moving.
                  Originally posted by deevergote
                  ..It's not cheap to build a fast CB7, especially NA. However, if you're willing to put the money into the car, it's well worth it in the end. There ARE faster cars out there, but some people, like me, want THIS particular car to be fast!...
                  Sold to:tanNn2koo,9tAkord,ThrakBarts,nahmo,andrizzle,or anger
                  Bought from:93a-lude, bruno8747, soysauce

                  1993 H22A cb7 <3 miss you
                  04 WRX stg 2 sedan
                  Current - 02 WRX stg 2 wagon

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                    #10
                    The ball joint type is supposed to be bad for our cars... the ball joints aren't supposed to be replaced, so the metal can be weakened on the control arms. I've never heard of anyone actually having trouble with broken control arms though.

                    I had the anchor bolt type about a year ago. I overtorqued them when I installed them and two of them broke. Not fun.

                    Whichever route you go, be sure to get quality parts and follow the instructions and torque specs carefully! That, or have a shop install everything for you. Poorly installed cheapie parts are NOT a good idea!






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                      #11
                      Go Ingalls For Sure..........

                      Try The Ball Joint Camber Over The Standard
                      Seem More Practical......WITH THESE THE WHOLE CONTROL ARM ADJUSTS
                      WHICH SHOULD ELIMINATE FRAME RUBBING AND UNLESS U HIT A MANHATTEN SIZED POT HOLE........THEY BEAT THE RUBBER BALLJOINT SET UP.
                      Last edited by wagoneer; 12-24-2006, 09:05 PM.

                      PUSSY WAGON

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                        #12
                        I will put in my 2 cents here seeing i have the ingalls ball joint type.

                        1. I do not have problems with noise from the ball joint other than when i hit big bumps and the control arm tops out. This is normal for the balljoint type but after a month or two this goes away.

                        2. To touch on what deever said about them not being good for our cars. These parts are made very very well and the design of the ingalls are top notch. When you get the old ball joint out and put the kit on you will see how it fits and works. From the looks of it and the way it's made the control arm maybe even stronger than stock, the way its sandwiches over a larger surface area.

                        3. When we had some ice here a few weeks ago i ended up jumping a curb with the pass side wheel hitting first and ended up in some old ladys yard. And the alignment held up very nicely. Again i believe this is from the quality of the ingalls ball joint kit.

                        4. The reason i got this ingalls kit was to kill two birds with one stone. I needed new ball joints anyways. And i needed a camber kit. So the kit took care of my needs in a very cost effective way.

                        Not to mention they are easy as hell to install, the hard part was getting out the old ball joint. Hope this help everyone thinking about the balljoint kits. FYI i got mine off e-bay for $160 shipped and this included new rear control arm bolts and washers to correct the rear camber also. I give this kit 3

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                          #13
                          Got the Ingalls 35720 kit installed this week. Seem to be a very good product. I decided that way because the ball joints are not supposed to be replaceable seperate so I went with a product I had used before. Also installed the Energy Suspension Kit at the same time with the Skunk2 springs. Love the lowered look and the handling. Need to get it aligned but haven't got the rear springs in yet. Ran out of time the other day when installing the kit.
                          1993 Honda Accord LX-auto--bone stock for now.--248K
                          1997 Honda CRV--auto--bone stock--wife won't let me touch the CRV. 150K

                          Need any performance parts? Check out my website or email me for prices.

                          www.CARMandP.com

                          Working on my H23 sway for free

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