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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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what's wrong in the picture?
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bump:
Originally posted by cp[mike]well believe it or not its a well known issue that the motor wont sit level and theres potential of breaking axles when using the prelude mount to convert. its also mentioned everywhere that to compensate, you need to add shims/washers to the driver side motor mount.
if you put a piece of wood and a jack under the oil pan ( to hold the motor), remove the main cross bolt out of the front motor mount. you can then remove the driver side mount. stack up 1/2" worth of washers on the stud, as well as on the second hole that the second bolt goes through. then put the moutn back on. the front mount bolt wont go in perfectly, youll have to jack up the front of the motor a bit to get it to line up.
doing this will hold the driver side of the motor a bit lower, so its level, so the axle wont keep breaking...
is your crank pulley rubbing on the side of the engine bay?
- 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
- 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
- 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
Current cars:
- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
- 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion
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Originally posted by 9310A&95EXwhen doing auto manual swap tranmission mount passenger side.
u have to weld manual mount braket to the fender well. cut the auto transmisson mount braket out and weld the manual one in
the bolt hole on auto is lower than manual. if u dont they will keep snapping and easly
That would be the proper way to do it if you had a welder handy. If not the 5th gen is the other way to do it and all you need to do is shim it. Not as effective but it works.
The New-ish Ride
My old Ride
Hear my Vtak!!!
MK3 Member #3
I piss off people for fun.
IA 08 Sunburn Victim #1
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Originally posted by 9310A&95EXya i guess there is a dimple on the auto mount just above the stock bolt hole i heard u can drill that out and that also works
im new to this site but u guys make working on my car so much easier love ya lol
welcome to the site
- 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
- 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
- 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
Current cars:
- 2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon - Daily driver
- 2004 Chevrolet Express AWD - Camper conversion
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