Automatic transmission jerk...

[vinbon63]

Hey everyone I have a question about my auto tranny. Everytime I shift from P to D4, as soon as it gets into the D4, the car jerks pretty noticeably. Now i've read of other people having problems similar to this one on their CB's, but from what i read, they had problems when driving and going from 1st to 2nd and so on. I also read that its possible the motor mounts have gone bad, or to do a transmission fluid flush. Do you guys have any other suggestions or help, or do you think this is basically going to solve my problem? Any feedback would be really appreciated. Thanks.
-Vince

[NAiL05]

Well if its jerking pretty bad I would check your mounts first. If you havent changed your fluid also might as well do that too.

[qbodsyt]

my old automatic accord used to jerk noticeably going from P to R or from D4 to R.......R seemed to be the common cause. But my R used to take a second or two to engage as well, so my tranny might have been getting tired.

From what I've learned talking to other auto CB7 owners and my mechanic, the design of the transmission is just not tuned for comfort. Its a tough tranny (compared to say the smoother shifting Toyota auto) but its clunky....my shifts were always really clunky, I had to feather the gas like I was driving stick to make it smoother.......

CB7's are made for 5spd!

[Leung]

what are physical signs that our engine mounts are going bad or are bad?

because when i shift from P to D4 it goes *Kachunk* kinda loud also.

[NYKnick1015]

if you can feel it jerking, its the motor mounts because ur engine is moving around. also it would be helpful 2 change ur tranny fluid... dont want to let it run like that wit dirty tranny fluid

[pig pen]

change the fluid asap, i didn't do it on mine and next thing you know i lost 2nd and it wouldn't kickdown anymore when i floored it. Also if it is the F22A1 the tranny is made to shift that hard, my mechanic who has worked on honda's for 25 years said that its normal for them to shift that hard. There built for durability not comfort, so im guessing thats what the jerking is. It could still be the motor mounts though, i would check them just to be safe.

[NAiL05]

My old 90 ex shifted pretty rough through the gears and yes as mentioned it is normal. Before I had the same problem when i shifted from park out I would feel something jolt bad went out and checked looked like my rear/front mount went bad replaced it and it was fine. Usually when shifting out of park my car was pretty smooth (other than when the mount was busted) on my old car I dunno guess that was just my car though.

[Leung]

those mounts fairly easy to replace? and do i have to have the engine removed to do so?

[HondaGuy1212]

Yea my car shifts hard too, Some mechanics have said when your transmission shifts hard those are signs of it on its last leg.

[NAiL05]

those mounts fairly easy to replace? and do i have to have the engine removed to do so?

Nope you dont have to take the motor out. Fairly easy to replace the rear ones the hardest one out of all of them.

[Stealthman80]

im pretty sure all of out auto trannys shift fairly crappy, I've read reviews from when these cars came out and they said the trannys where ruff, so im pretty sure a 13 year old car is gonna be crappy, mine clunks when I put it in gear, but I also know my rear mount is worn out

[owequitit]

If jerking when going from R to D etc, it is most likely a bad dogbone torque mount.

The sole purpose of those is to control engine movement, but they are fairly soft and whimpy for smoothness. They usually last 100K under most circumstances.

The easiest way to check this mount is to watch the engine when you shift. You will see it rock excessively when this mount is bad. You can also look at the mount.

It could also be the rear, although you would most likely notice a vibration at speed with this one being bad. The severity would depend on how bad it is.

You can check this one by putting your hand under the intake manifold and pulling up. If the engine rocks easily, like it isn't attached to anything, this mount is bad.

The other two can be inspected visually for cracks or breaks.

For the fluid, use only Genuine Honda ATF, as Dex II/III will make it shift more harshly than it normally would. Unfortunately, if you have been running dex for a long time, your shift quality may never come back.

Also, make sure you change the fluid no less than every 30K. If it is even a little bit brown, it needs changed.

This can have a substantial effect on shift quality.

Honestly, my tranny is occasionally harsh, but most of the time it is just fine.

Honda Autos are actually a lot stronger than people give them credit for IF (and that is a big IF) they are maintained correctly.

[Leung]

good thing you said something about the tranny fluid because i would have gone out and filled it with Dexcron 2 or something like that.

i'll make sure to run up to my Honda dealer and get 3 quarts and another jug of type 2 coolant.

[owequitit]

good thing you said something about the tranny fluid because i would have gone out and filled it with Dexcron 2 or something like that.

i'll make sure to run up to my Honda dealer and get 3 quarts and another jug of type 2 coolant.

Most people don't care, or don't believe me, but having experienced both fluids in many Honda autos, it does actually make a big difference.

[djcaz_aom]

Like owequitit said, you have a bad torque point mount or dog bone as it's called. Replace it and purchase some poly inserts. They don't make them for autos, but with little modifying, the manual ones will fit.
**Also change out the fluid and put some Lucas in there. Honda and Lucas, two names I depend on.