Automatic Rev Limit not letting me redline

[bigblue]

I manually shift my auto (yes a no no) but I have had no probs with it and been doin it like that for over a year now. even in auto though I still beat people, the only gear that sux is 4th kuz mine windes for a sec but she gets it dun

[defjamon22z]

Funny you should mention that. My car is an auto and I have beat quite a fair number of manual transmission cars.

Usually, there is about a .5-1.0 second difference between an auto's times and a manuals times.

If you miss a shift, you just lost.

If you adjust the power band to work with the gearing, you can get a lot more out of an auto than you think.

Don't blather about autos because that is what you read on the internet.

Besides, "***" or not, if you consistently drive in heavy stop and go traffic or just generally don't feel like having to deal with shifting, autos take the cake.

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To the original poster:

There is most likely something wrong if it is only letting you go to 3000RPM. Typically, Honda's autos do shift just shy of the redline, but normally by only a couple hundred RPM or so.

You probably have issues, and may want to check your fluid quality and level. Pretty much everything else on those is electronic, so if it isn't simple, then you are probably in trouble.

Being that it is electronically controlled, it is safe to shift it manually. If you shift into a gear that it doesn't want, it won't go into it because the computer has final say.

Most people that have ruined one of these transmissions have ruined them for stupid reasons like not maintaining them or doing Neutral drops.

They require a fluid change every 30,000 miles, and only Genuine Honda ATF will maintain the shift quality.

my bestfriend since 1st grade has a honda accord 92 2 door back den. he use to shift on the highway. so when he bout to press the brake or slow down alot he would shift the gear down to ONE and press the brake.. when he bout to go he brings it back. i hate when he does that. then bout 4 weeks later. he got a bend in the engine. fucked it up and never fix it.

[NAiL05]

my bestfriend since 1st grade has a honda accord 92 2 door back den. he use to shift on the highway. so when he bout to press the brake or slow down alot he would shift the gear down to ONE and press the brake.. when he bout to go he brings it back. i hate when he does that. then bout 4 weeks later. he got a bend in the engine. fucked it up and never fix it.

[203Cree]

+1

I just noticed my car sounds like it has a two step (or studder box, dunno what you guys call them over here) at 5500. Doesn't matter what gear. I suspect it has to do with fuel delivery.

Back to your problem. Do these cars have a TPS? I would say that's your problem, your ecu isn't recongnizing the load vs. throttle position and is shifting early.

[Otto]

+1

I just noticed my car sounds like it has a two step (or studder box, dunno what you guys call them over here) at 5500. Doesn't matter what gear. I suspect it has to do with fuel delivery.

Back to your problem. Do these cars have a TPS? I would say that's your problem, your ecu isn't recongnizing the load vs. throttle position and is shifting early.

I don't beleive the ECU and TCU communicate at all on the CBs. They have a cable connected to the throttle cable at the TB that goes to the tranny to determine throttle opening. That's how I understand it anyways, don't have any experience with an auto CB.
But I was thinking the same basic thing. That the tanny/TCU doesn't know the engine is at WOT, so it doesn't shift when it should.
My only thought is to check and adjust that cable (not even sure what its called lol).

[203Cree]

Okay then, going along your line of thinking...

The TCU would have set shift points and there should be a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) that that would talk to the TCU and tell it what your throttle position is. TPS is probably going tits up in that case. It would all be dependant as to wether or not it shifts at lower RPM's or if it's always at the same point.

The cable you're refering to would probably be the kickdown cable, but that should ONLY determine downshifting.

I don't know shit about CB's yet, but that's what common sense is tellin me. I could be way off base, but that's how 90% of other vehicles operate that have a seperate ECU/TCU. If I'm wrong, someone please feel free to set me straight.

[foamypirate]

Also, don't know if this has been mentioned, but check the cable going from the throttle body to the transmission. It has to have a certain amount of play. Yours sounds likes it's loose. I know I loosened mine a bit when I cleaned my intake plenum out, and now mine shifts at 5000 instead of 6000 when I floor it.

[owequitit]

Okay then, going along your line of thinking...

The TCU would have set shift points and there should be a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) that that would talk to the TCU and tell it what your throttle position is. TPS is probably going tits up in that case. It would all be dependant as to wether or not it shifts at lower RPM's or if it's always at the same point.

The cable you're refering to would probably be the kickdown cable, but that should ONLY determine downshifting.

I don't know shit about CB's yet, but that's what common sense is tellin me. I could be way off base, but that's how 90% of other vehicles operate that have a seperate ECU/TCU. If I'm wrong, someone please feel free to set me straight.

The sole purpose of that "kickdown" cable is to increase line pressure during downshifts.

If you remove it completely, the tranny WILL still downshift, but it slips horribly in the process.

The ECU and the TCU do communicate to an extent because there is an A/T signal A and an AT signal B in the trouble codes for the ECU.

Manual shifting the auto isn't going to hurt. I love repeating myself, but here I go again. Everything is electronic. Torque converter lockup, gear shifting, etc, is all controlled by the TCU. When you manually downshift the car, the computer reads your request, adjusts everything, and the commands a downshift from the tranny. It is all electronic, and since the TCU makes the decisions, it isn't going to hurt anything.

For instance, if you are travelling above 30MPH and pull the gear selector back to D1, it will NOT downshift into first gear.

Because of the shift programming, I have to occasionally pull it back to get it to downshift, and I have never had a problem. In 8 years and 220,000 miles.

To many kids that have heard too much information that is not correct.

Change the fluid, and don't treat the tranny like an ass, and it will be just fine.

[foamypirate]

Hmm. That's strange that it would make my upshifts take place at an earlier RPM...Maybe I did something to the TPS when I was cleaning my intake...

[IBCNYA]

good or bad, but i drive my auto cb7 like a manual trans no problems forover 2 years, and i push that bitch hard.(am not telling any1 to do it, its just what I DO)
the only thing i can think off right now its getting another tcu, do you have any cel lights or anything?

yeah im with this post...i never had anyproblems outta my tranny doing this. Its your car do as you want. If you feel the need to ask if something is bad for then maybe you shouldnt be doing it. I used to nuetral drop my auto all the time...a guy a knew had a a6 EX that would burn through all the gears while sittin still.

[nostringz]

okay i think i get it.... its all computer, so the reason it wont downshift is because the computer is restricting it for a good reason...
ill check the throttle line and gas pedal
tranny flush that is on my todo list and have it my trunk ready to fill up

and thanks for your opinions on shifting the auto manually, it will help

but dammit when my car will shift at 3000 on first when i floor it!

[CrazyHondaOwnR]

my very first honda was an auto bout a yearr after i got it something went wrong... (never bothered to find out what)...but it wouldn't shift automaticly i had to drop it to 1st then go to d3 ...lol i called it my sem-automatic when i still had it it was a 92 accord

[Otto]

Okay then, going along your line of thinking...

The TCU would have set shift points and there should be a TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) that that would talk to the TCU and tell it what your throttle position is. TPS is probably going tits up in that case. It would all be dependant as to wether or not it shifts at lower RPM's or if it's always at the same point.

The cable you're refering to would probably be the kickdown cable, but that should ONLY determine downshifting.

I don't know shit about CB's yet, but that's what common sense is tellin me. I could be way off base, but that's how 90% of other vehicles operate that have a seperate ECU/TCU. If I'm wrong, someone please feel free to set me straight.

Ah, OK. I forgot the name of the cable, so the thought didn't occur to me. Sorry 'bout that. Sounds like you know more about how automatics work, so I'll keep my mouth shut now.

Now my second though. I recall reading about a limp mode that would cause the same condition. Again, I don't remember all the facts about it, and could be wrong.