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Irratic idle - Cause was starting valve leak

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    #1

    Irratic idle - Cause was starting valve leak

    OK, so I just did the A6 IM swap and my only problem left is the idle jumps from 1000 RPM's to 2500 RPM's constantly....when I first start it, once it warms up and even when I'm sittin at a red light. First off, yes I searched and tried pretty much everything....cleaned all the valves listed and checked all vac lines. I was getting a CEL code #12(EGR) but I fixed that and reset the ECU. Now when I unhook the #21 hose, which goes to the MAP sensor, the idle sticks at just under 1000 RPM. Problem is, that it stalls once I let off the throttle when it's unhooked. So could this mean my MAP sensor is bad? Is the MAP sensor something I can get at advance auto and how much does it cost?
    Last edited by Speedfiend92lx; 09-15-2006, 06:52 PM.

    Never underestimate a 4-door Accord
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    #2
    Look for one on ebay, those things are pricey. TPS has to be set properly, search for the DIY thread somewhere.

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      #3
      when my idle was going up and down like that its was my fitv...all i had to do was adjust it.
      My Members Ride Thread

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        #4
        By adjusting it you mean, taking it off and screwing it the entire way in and then putting the paper clip in to hold it in place? Bc I already did that and it didn't work. I mean when I unhook the #21 vac line for my map sensor, it settles right down. I was just wondering if anyone else ever had this problem.

        Never underestimate a 4-door Accord

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          #5
          Ya know it seems like everyone has had this problem at one time or another but there isn't a definitive answer as to what causes it? Ive pretty much tried everything I've found on this site besides bleeding the radiator. I just know it has something to do with my MAP sensor bc if unhooking it settles it right down then I'd think it would have to be it. Has anyone ever tried to unhook their MAP vac line when they had the idle prob and seen what happened?

          Never underestimate a 4-door Accord

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            #6
            I finally fixed it!!! After trying everything that was suggested on this site from cleaning the FITV to bleeding the radiator to cleaning the IACV and still the problem persisted. I took off my air boost valve and cleaned it out. I then took the top plate off of it and removed the spring(watch when you take it off bc the spring will pop out if you don't keep pressure on the top plate). Then I put it back on and ran the vaccum line from the ABV to the closed off nipple on the top of the throttle body. I took it for a cruise and she runs awesome. The idle is sooo smooth. Ever since I got the car, it would pull itself when I wasn't on the gas. Like when I was coming to a stop. It doesn't even do that anymore. I'm real happy. Now this vac line might already be hooked up on your car but it wasn't on mine. It never had been and I always tried hooking it up and it made it idle worse until I took the spring out. I think the spring was the key part. I hope this helps someone like it did me.

            Never underestimate a 4-door Accord

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              #7
              Originally posted by Speedfiend92lx
              I finally fixed it!!! After trying everything that was suggested on this site from cleaning the FITV to bleeding the radiator to cleaning the IACV and still the problem persisted. I took off my air boost valve and cleaned it out. I then took the top plate off of it and removed the spring(watch when you take it off bc the spring will pop out if you don't keep pressure on the top plate). Then I put it back on and ran the vaccum line from the ABV to the closed off nipple on the top of the throttle body. I took it for a cruise and she runs awesome. The idle is sooo smooth. Ever since I got the car, it would pull itself when I wasn't on the gas. Like when I was coming to a stop. It doesn't even do that anymore. I'm real happy. Now this vac line might already be hooked up on your car but it wasn't on mine. It never had been and I always tried hooking it up and it made it idle worse until I took the spring out. I think the spring was the key part. I hope this helps someone like it did me.
              This is what was wrong with your car then.

              Your air boost valve/starting valve was open all the time, since it was not hooked up. This valve when open, caused the vacuum leak which was why you had the idle fluctuation. There is no need to remove any spring from this valve, all you needed to do what hook up a vacuum hose from the nipple on this valve to the nipple on your stock/aftermarket intake piping, it's located on the piping closest to the throttle body. You need to get air before the throttle body is why for it to help on start up when the throttle is closed.

              If you ever get an aggressive enough camshaft (like Delta 272 or something more aggressive), making a block off plate eliminating this valve is a good idea.
              HondaFan81 For Sale Parts (LOW PRICES ON EVERYTHING)

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