make car faster without spending alot of $

[mozzandherb]

how is a f22 turbo a "little bit more than that" and yet the h22 swap is "much more"?? i dont get that at all...please enlighten me as to how you see that?

Sorry, yeah now that I think of it you're right they are alot closer in price than I first thought.

[Cby0]

here's an old trick. put dry ice in your intake. cold air intake without spending money on AEM.

[deevergote]

Plastic Intake Manifold Gasket $30-50 = 8+hp (best hp/$ ratio?)
ECU Service $60+
Gutting Catalytic Converter $0 (If you don't have emissions testing)
Remove Sound Deadening Material from under carpet $0
Timing Advance @ Distributor $0 (timing light? don't be scared...)
Premium Gas + Octane Booster $0.20/gal, $2-10
Blowing Past a Slower, More Expensive car $Priceless

Plastic Intake Manifold Gasket $30-50 = 8+hp (best hp/$ ratio?) That's never been proven on our cars... 2-3 is more likely
ECU Service $60+ Won't do much for a stock motor... airflow mods and a stock ECU usually create a rich situation, so leaning it out then tends to help.
Gutting Catalytic Converter $0 (If you don't have emissions testing) This creates a place for exhaust turbulance... disturbing flow decreases power.
Remove Sound Deadening Material from under carpet $0
Timing Advance @ Distributor $0 (timing light? don't be scared...) Moves the powerband... can help or hurt... my motor HATES anything but 15 degrees.
Premium Gas + Octane Booster $0.20/gal, $2-10 Does nothing for power... just helps combat detonation with high compression, boost, or timing advance.

[lucid]

Oh man, you're tearin' me up. Cool, okay. I found a dyno printout for the IM gasket on a newer wimpy civic, it made around 8 more horses and torque. I don't know if they tuned or doctored between runs, but it doesn't look like it and at least it's a dyno printout. I'm assuming the gains are better expressed as a % increase in power per engine rather than a specific number of hp gained, and even a F22a1 makes as much power as the dyno car



I notice all my cars slower with regular gas than premium, and all my cars faster (at least in the upper end where they need to breathe) when I gut the cat. I know straight pipe is ideal and there's a turbulence debate, but in this case the benefits are greater than the drawbacks from what I've seen (and this is a cheap fix thread, test pipes don't pass inspection and they and "hi-flow" cats cost a bit of $). Haven't gotten to the ECU tuning part on anything, so I can't say. I would hope there's room to get performance without just riching everything out?? I know the distributor thing gets different answers depending on who you talk to, even my engine-building mechanic friend moves his (B-series) around wherever. That high acceleration powerband is what makes the hondas feel even faster than they are, and moving the powerband to exaggerate that adds to it. I know I should buy a timing light, but I hope my H22 doesn't act as finnicky (sp?) as yours, you'd think you'd be able to tune it with cam gears & what not a little...?

[deevergote]

I didn't mean to dig into you... just addressing the points.

The intake manifold gasket helps more when the car is cold. As the car heats up, the efficiency decreases.

Higher octane burns slower and more evenly. If you've advanced your timing more than 17 degrees, then higher octane would be good.

[lucid]

Some people bypass the fast idle valve (on the throttle body) and rearrange the valve parts to stay closed. You can then rerout your coolant lines so they don't go through the valve, and it will keep some heat out of your tb/im. This is only a safe option in warm climates, because it eliminates the cold idle cycle if I remember correctly. I've been scared to try it because everything works ok now, and winters are cold here. If the valve went bad, I'd do it in a heartbeat. Supposedly it's good for like 5hp, but you know how those quotes go...

[Blind_Sabotage]

here's an old trick. put dry ice in your intake. cold air intake without spending money on AEM.

isnt dry ice frozen CO2? co2 isnt flamable and would just dillute aie intake

[lucid]

Oh yeah, I was going to say something about that, but I didn't want to have to give away the trick where you pack the dry ice in a layer around the outside of the intake tube to cool the walls....

[Dirty Harry]

Oh yeah, I was going to say something about that, but I didn't want to have to give away the trick where you pack the dry ice in a layer around the outside of the intake tube to cool the walls....

That's not a trick, that's the only logical way it could fuckin' work... holy shit what is wrong with people

[deevergote]

The cheapest way to make your car faster:

Get on the gas while going down a really big hill.

Just remember, you get what you pay for. Go for cheap speed, you'll get cheap parts. Then you'll need cheap repairs. Then you'll want another car... cheap.

[JDMCB705]

go fast for cheap? how about free? solution: HOPES & DREAMS......lol but in reality... get an evo if u wanna go fast. u cant really go fast for cheap in an accord imo

[deevergote]

You can be faster than an EVO for less than the cost of said EVO, however. To hit 11s, you're looking at about $12,000 and some careful planning... maybe less, depending on who you know and how lucky you are.


Basically, the CB7 goes in stages. First, people get the basic IHE setup. Then they choose one of two paths... forced induction or a swap. Those that want both get the cheaper swap first (not the H22 usually) and then plan boost. Some choose nitrous, but those guys usually go for turbo after a while. The hardcore NA guys eventually get cams for their H22, or more recently, the F22A. Then comes headwork. Then full forged internals.

The majority of people stop at the swap or cheap turbo setup.

[lucid]

That's not a trick, that's the only logical way it could fuckin' work... holy shit what is wrong with people

Yeah, EVERYBODY knows that one (like that's a real thing that people do ?), but I still think some people don't understand it was a joke.

[lucid]

here's an old trick. put dry ice in your intake. cold air intake without spending money on AEM.

To all those people:
See joke in question above now, understand that it was a joke at your own pace. Reread page 2 in it's entirety if things still don't make sense. Silly tuners... This post would be a cool thread to have back ON TOPIC...

...So Deevergote, are you putting the all-out turbo setup and the fully built N/A options (boosters & breathers),on the same (price) level. I guess ideally you'd want to go in and fully rebuild the motor regardless. A fully built (for turbo) motor even with all the accessories (intercooler, bov,wg,the turbo itself) probably wouldn't be that much more expensive than the all-motor setup compared to what you will have had to spend already on the internals and machine work, because premium aftermarket parts are needed for both applications. I guess they're two different ways to be crazy in a good way. If you have enough money to afford that kind of insanity .