Rough Idle?????????

[starchland]

I would forsure say FIV and IACV first need to be cleaned.

[According2Aaron]

Did you also clean the IACV? unplugging it does nothing more than re-set the sensor. Also, have you tackled the FITV yet?

Yeah. Earlier today I pulled the IACV off and cleaned the screen off with a rough paper towel (because I didn't have any carb cleaner or anything), but the screen looked pretty clean. So I plugged it up, drove it home, and read this thread.

I've also tightened the fast idle valve but I didn't see any change, granded I did that after I tried unplugging the IACV.

Also, I just got home from Advance where I bought an EGR valve gasket because my next item of business for the Honda is cleaning that booger out.

[According2Aaron]

I would forsure say FIV and IACV first need to be cleaned.

How would one clean the FIV? There are no threads in the search feature about cleaning the FIV, only the IACV.

[JDMcb7]

How would one clean the FIV? There are no threads in the search feature about cleaning the FIV, only the IACV.

You don't really clean it out. Coolant runs through it so you don't want to spray brake cleaner or anything in there that might get into your cooling system.

I would go get a cheap-o can of brake or carb cleaner and clean the IAC again. There is a lot of carbon that can get stuck inside there that you simply cannot reach with a paper towel. Don't be a afriad to use quite a bit. After spraying the carb cleaner the car is gonna run like crap for a second until all of it is burned out. drive around the block and you should be good to go.

[According2Aaron]

You don't really clean it out. Coolant runs through it so you don't want to spray brake cleaner or anything in there that might get into your cooling system.

I would go get a cheap-o can of brake or carb cleaner and clean the IAC again. There is a lot of carbon that can get stuck inside there that you simply cannot reach with a paper towel. Don't be a afriad to use quite a bit. After spraying the carb cleaner the car is gonna run like crap for a second until all of it is burned out. drive around the block and you should be good to go.

'Preciate it. I'll try that and I'll reply here if I need additional help. Thanks again, everybody.

[According2Aaron]

Okay..., where to start. I cleaned the EGR valve today and pulled the IACV back off and cleaned it, but I *ahem* forgot the Q-tip method and... sprayed carburetor cleaner directly into the screen and it messed up the IACV, so it ran like schtick and revved up and down. Then I took it for a spin and I had to keep it WOT or else it'd buck like a friggin' rodeo bull. So I realized I screwed up and forgot the Q-tip method and I remembered that I had an entire spare F22A1 in the basement so I called up my father and he came to the rescue. He drove me home and I pulled the old IACV off that old engine, went back to the Honda (whom was chillin' in town) and slapped that bad boy on the engine and it fired right up!

It's doing great now, however, it's still idling at 14-1600 RPMs.... What exactly does tightening the FIV do anyway? I read on here that I should do that so I did, but see no improvements.

[Otto]

Originally Posted by 93accordexcoupe
u people are going way to far into it for something that could be a small problem. check for leaks, everywhere. my car does that when any of my vacuum lines arent connected. also check ur pcv valve, it should be loose, not loose like it will fall out but not tight like it will hold up to a hurricane. also check to make sure there isnt any air coming out of ur throttle body/intake manifold gasket. also do u know if u have a radiator leak or any problem with it? sometimes the radiator being bad can throw things off like that.

yep. Id also check out the IAC and clean out the screen with carb cleaner.

Agreed and agreed. Vacuum leak is a good place to start...spray sround gaskets with carb cleaner, a leak will sucke it in and engine behaviour will change.
Good luck

[According2Aaron]

Agreed and agreed. Vacuum leak is a good place to start...spray sround gaskets with carb cleaner, a leak will sucke it in and engine behaviour will change.
Good luck

DO NOT just spray around the screen. ONLY use a Q-tip. Spray the Q-tip down well and clean the screen with a Q-tip because if you just spray the screen, it'll screw up the IACV and the car will start out with a crazy revving idle, then when you start to drive it'll BUCK like crazy, then the motor won't rev higher than 2,000 RPMs and gag. Please, please, please use a Q-tip. Your car will thank you.

[JDMcb7]

DO NOT just spray around the screen. ONLY use a Q-tip. Spray the Q-tip down well and clean the screen with a Q-tip because if you just spray the screen, it'll screw up the IACV and the car will start out with a crazy revving idle, then when you start to drive it'll BUCK like crazy, then the motor won't rev higher than 2,000 RPMs and gag. Please, please, please use a Q-tip. Your car will thank you.

I've sprayed many of them w/ carb cleaner and it's never done that. Have your checked to ensure you had proper coolant level? Also, are you sure the FIV went all the way down? In my past experience they can a bit a bitch to turn sometimes. SO make sure that sucker is wound all the way down. Have you checked for any disconnected or broken vacuum hoses?

[According2Aaron]

I've sprayed many of them w/ carb cleaner and it's never done that. Have your checked to ensure you had proper coolant level? Also, are you sure the FIV went all the way down? In my past experience they can a bit a bitch to turn sometimes. SO make sure that sucker is wound all the way down. Have you checked for any disconnected or broken vacuum hoses?

Well, about a week ago I topped off the radiator, but I haven't checked the level since then.

I'm pretty sure the FIV is all the way tight because when I first opened it's housing thingy to tighten it, it was loose. Then I tightened it and now it's so tight I can't move it anymore.

As for vacuum hoses, there's one I know is undone. It comes from the EGR valve. I noticed it when I pulled the EGR valve off to clean it. I couldn't figure out where it goes so my friend looked at his H22A and figured they're the same and his goes to the control box on the passenger's side of the firewall. I assume it's the same for my F22A1.

I asked Patastinky about it and he said, "IVAC," but then he had to go. I assumed he meant "IACV," which I've already cleaned twice. Is there an "IVAC" that's different from the "IACV?" If so, I can't find it in CB7Tuner's search feature, Google, or HowStuffWorks.com.

I'm fairly new to these newer cars (as my vehicle experience is with my '78 F-150) but I'm puzzled now. I don't know what to do now because I've explored every avenue my result leads me down.

[accordaffair]

For me, I did the following...

Refreshed the orings for iacv, fitv, air boost (soaked them in oil and cleaned off excess before refitting, turns crusty flattened o-rings into plush vibrant orings that will hold a seal)
Cleaned all out with carb cleaner
Readjusted throttle body stop screw
tightened fitv screw all the way
retightened IM bolts (to avoid leaks)
adjusted idle screw to bring idle down

Now it runs well

[According2Aaron]

1.

For me, I did the following...

Refreshed the orings for iacv

Orings? Do you mean the black gasket around the two holes on the IACV?

2.

fitv

Do you mean the off-white/yellowish thingy in here?



3.

air boost (soaked them in oil and cleaned off excess before refitting, turns crusty flattened o-rings into plush vibrant orings that will hold a seal)
Cleaned all out with carb cleaner

What's air boost?

4.

Readjusted throttle body stop screw

What's that?

tightened fitv screw all the way

Isn't that item 2?

retightened IM bolts (to avoid leaks)

Hmm. Might do that.

adjusted idle screw to bring idle down

Now it runs well

Isn't that item 2 again? Thanks!

[accordaffair]

O rings are just what I mean, there are 2 (for f22) or 3 (for h23) orings on the back of the fitv, and i think 2 conjoined for both the eacv and air boost valves.

The fitv is what you circled.

Air boost is the smaller, less noticed valve found on the far right side of the plenum (for f22) or front right (on h23).

The throttle body stop screw was important for me because I had swapped throttle bodies and rotors. Most likely it will not be an issue for you.

Yes the screw inside the fitv is..inside the fitv, which you circled

Grab yourself a torque wrench, get the values for torque for the IM, plenum, accessories, etc.

The idle screw is found on the top of the throttle body, with my f22 it was perfect but when I swapped to the h23 the previous owner had unscrewed it at least half way out...I tightened it all the way. Adjust it while the car is warm and running. I believe 750 is ideal for autos. I don't know what it is for manuals, might be 800.

[According2Aaron]

Okay but, do you have a picture of the "idle screw" and "air boost?" That would be most helpful.

About idle, it should be the same for both automatics and manuals because the sticker on the underside of my hood say 700 RPMs +/- 50 next to Automatic and the same next to manual.

[accordaffair]

As soon as I read your post, I turned in my chair 90 degrees, looked down 45 degrees and took 2 pictures....that it is that easy would you consider convenient or sad?

BTW this is an f22a6 upper plenum, h23 is different.




Will you bet me $10 this won't be the last time I have to show someone where these are located? Actually, nm that, it is now YOUR responsibility to show new members that ask where these are located. The torch has been passed to new generation.


hehe