To ReRing or not when stock rebuilding?

[Knavishmammal]

Sorry for the second thread in two days guys.

While driving to work today my leaking water pump, little hole in the back of engine has had a little dribble has turned into a constant stream and left me on the freeway. I have about 250k miles, speedometer is off so idk real mileage, and want to rebuild it instead of just replacing the timing belt and water pump but I also have plans in the future for building so I hope to just rebuild to get me back on the road for a couple more months. For about 200 dollars I can get new oil/water pumps, gaskets and rering kit or I can spend an extra 120 and get new pistons. I haven't done a compression test on this F22a6 before but I can still do 0-60 in 9s after owning over a year. So is it needed to spend the extra 120 if I plan on replacing them with forged in a couple months?

[Grumpys93]

I would do a compression test to answer that question. The pistons themselves don’t typically fail, it’s the rings that fail. So if your planning on replacing the rings then no need for pistons.

[Knavishmammal]

Ring and bearing size??

I do not plan on having anything machined, just a good hand cleaning by me, do I go with standard bearings and rings?

[CbNewbie]

The correct way to figure that out would be to take it to a shop and ask them to check it. Sometimes over time, they wear and you might need a .025 over
STD might work just to slap it together though.

[Grumpys93]

Anytime you remove the head you should get the head or block resurfaced. That way you know you’ll have a good seal with the Headgasket. If there is any kind of warp, you will be fighting a leaking Headgasket all day. If you plan to put new rings on the pistons, you need to get the blocked honed, so the rings have something to grind against and get a proper seal. You can do the honing yourself with the drill attachment, but I usually leave that kind of thing up to the professionals.

As for bearings you need to look at the color codes your block calls for. They are stamped by the oil pan and I’ve never replaced just rings before. I’ve only replaced stock pistons with forged pistons, so I’m assuming standard is fine. Biggest thing with rings is make sure the gaps are offset from each other, or else you may end up with blow by.

[Knavishmammal]

I contacted a reputable machine shop nearby and looks like it’ll have to be something I will need to save up for, for temporary I will be replacing the timing belt and pump and the cover gasket. Any tips for replacing those?

[G. Wiffington]

Just make sure you are at Top Dead Center but, the timing belt & water
pump are very simple. Just clear your schedule for an entire weekend
if you haven't done it before. Get yourself a Hayne's Manual & just follow
the steps. SOHC are very easy timing belt jobs since it is just one cam
gear to line up & put on the belt. Get a good water pump & timing belt
kit though. Might get some kickback from others on here but I have used
a continental timing belt & water pump kit with the tensioners & all
& still don't have any issues on my F22. (Rockauto)
Good luck!

[wtfisafleek]

Replace the front main and cam seals while you're in there. Do a valve lash check afterward.

[Joey GT-R]

Like everyone else has said, it's just too much work to go in there without redoing rings as well.

How much did the machine shop say? Did they give you other avenues? Is there a competitor you can also get a quote from?