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H22a wont rev over 3k

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    H22a wont rev over 3k

    Hello. Soo i just traded my Mazda 6 for a 1992 Accord with a h22a and a 5 speed swap. I was driving home and i hit a massive dip in the road basically the car jumped. and the cluster and the clock stopped working. only the fuel gauge works and the car wont rev over 3k rpm or whatever the 2 step is set at. im a complete noob to this. idk what trans it was swapped to other than it has an lsd 5speed. i tried disconnecting the ecu and the battery for 15 mins i check all the connectors fusees and the o2 sensor and everything seems fine. and i do not have a check engine light. also my first post. any help will be appreciated

    #2
    That massive picture makes reading this extremely difficult.

    Not revving over 3k is usually “limp mode”.

    First, does your check engine light work? It should come on briefly when you turn the car on. If it doesn’t, replace the bulb.

    If your ECU wasn’t properly secured, it may have gotten damaged. Honestly, I would yank whatever custom-programmed junk you have in there and pick up a stock 92-95 P13 ECU.

    Picking up someone else’s project is always risky. Troubleshooting work that you didn’t do and don’t understand fully can be a nightmare. We’ll try to help... but without knowing the quality of the swap, we could be chasing tons of gremlins.






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      #3
      it wasnt. it was being held down by the carpet. and i honestly didnt expect the picture to come out this way. figured it will auto shrink it or something. and alright ill try that.

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        #4
        We used to have an auto-size feature, but we lost the code in a crash. The guy that did it disappeared, and we haven’t been able to replicate it without issues. Stupid old software!

        Check that the CEL works. If it does, we can dig deeper.

        Actually, try this. Unplug your o2 sensor and tie the wire out of the way so it doesn’t get damaged. Drive around a bit until the car reaches operating temperature. Don’t beat on it, but see if that changes anything. Unplugging the sensor will force the ECU to run in open loop mode.






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          #5
          Also, check your wiring grounds, it is possible that one or more than one came loose in the jump. Almost all the gauges going out leads me to think that is a possibility.

          Another thing to check, specifically for the rev issue, is your TPS (throttle position sensor on the back of the throttle body). If that has come unplugged from the harness, the car will not rev over ~2k because the ECU thinks the throttle is all the way closed and cuts fuel/ignition to bring the rpms back down.

          That's a long shot, but it's so easy to check.

          MRT

          14.38 @ 98.66mph
          The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
          Current fastest Laguna Seca Lap: 1:52.346

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            #6
            Good point about the grounds. I had the fender ground snap, but because it was such a stiff wire it kinda held itself in place. My battery wasn’t tied down tight, so bumps and hard turns would cause all sorts of weird things to happen.






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              #7
              A particular ground you absolutely need to check is the ECU's main ground on the thermostat housing. You will most likely need to move the coil out of the way to see, but there should be a ground from the wiring harness to the thermostat housing on the passenger's side. Make sure that ground is not loose.

              MRT

              14.38 @ 98.66mph
              The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
              Current fastest Laguna Seca Lap: 1:52.346

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