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Car won't rev above 1900 rpm

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    #1

    Car won't rev above 1900 rpm

    Out of the fire and into the frying pan...

    So I recently got my car started after over a year and a half sitting. I had an unknown issue that caused a small burn in the motherboard of my P72 and after replacing that with a P28 started popping the under dash ECU fuse. I went through two of them before number three managed to not pop ( same amp rating ).

    That problem not occurring again (I'm not gonna say I solved it) the fuel pump would prime and the car would start and idle had an issue with a solid CEL, surging idle and connectivity issues between my S300 and Smanager. I managed to take car of that by re-seating the S300 on the pins. So at that point the car would prime the fuel pump, start/idle properly and there was no CEL.

    I had taken it for a couple of slow rolls up my street before figuring out the ECU issue (no faster than 20/25 mph) and it would rev just fine. Now with everything else corrected or otherwise not showing any obvious symptoms the car will not rev above 1900 rpms, not at idle or while moving and I have no speedometer function on the dash ( datalogs show the speed and it seems accurate ). Now my friend/tuner seems to think that because of sitting so long the fuel filter and injectors got gummed up (which I'm planning on addressing). I'm just so frustrated at this point that I think an outside opinion or diagnosis would probably shine some light on the subject.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Logs tell everything. Check your logs again. If the key is on in my Talon EvoScan is running logs. Been that way for a year. Logs will tell you everything and anything if you know what your looking at.

    If it's fuel starvation your logs will most definitely show it.

    Your connectivity and burnt boards are very likely related. I know you said you took care of it but if you didn't really do anything then there is very likely still an issue. Problems don't fix themselves and if they do they don't stay fixed for long. And just because it stopped burning boards and popping fuses doesn't mean the issue is fixed. I would look further into these issues. It's also possible that all your issues are related. I wouldn't be the least bit surprised if they were.

    Something that can really mess with things like this is low voltage or voltage issues in general. The reason I say this is I've been here and done this. Different car, same principals.




    Comment

      #3
      I don't think the burnt motherboard and connectivity issue were related, the board in the P72 was burnt in spot well away from the S300 and while I'm not certain it is likely that whatever caused that (possibly a short) is what stopped the car from running over a year go. The connectivity issue is something I never had with the P72 and I think I just didn't pay attention when I put the S300 in the P28.

      A fuel starvation issue would make sense except that I didn't have this issue of not revving when the other things were going on. I'm wary of the self fixing symptoms myself but without any obvious damage or CELS it's kinda hard to track down. I've checked fuses, wiring, sensors and associated plugs, charged the battery. I'm assuming if there was a limp mode on this vehicle that a CEL would be thrown, that's what my current symptoms feel like.
      Last edited by Bunta; 08-12-2017, 11:03 AM.

      Comment

        #4
        Do you have access to a stock p13 ecu? I know it's not right for your engine, but close enough for troubleshooting. Remove the infinite variable that is a modified ecu, and you'll be able to determine if the problem is with the engine itself. If it runs well on a p13, your problem is still with the ecu.






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          #5
          Originally posted by deevergote View Post
          Do you have access to a stock p13 ecu? I know it's not right for your engine, but close enough for troubleshooting. Remove the infinite variable that is a modified ecu, and you'll be able to determine if the problem is with the engine itself. If it runs well on a p13, your problem is still with the ecu.
          no sir I sure don't, I do have the Euro R ecu but that is OBD2. I may crack the ECU open once again to verify that nothing was damaged when properly seating the S300. That's about all I have right now until my tuner looks at my datalog

          Comment

            #6
            The location of a component in relationship to another is irrelevant. As for the board.

            But even that aside, logs tell everything. Run a log and post it up if you want. I'd be more than willing to look at it for you. If you aren't familiar with Hondata Smanager then you may want to get a hold of your friend and have him help you out.

            Log s-trim, l-trim, inj, ign, duty, ect, rpm, cam, map and bat. That should do it.

            I'm not real familiar with Hondata specifically but it's still extremely close to Evoscan which I'm very familiar with.

            If it's not throwing a CEL pulling logs will be your friend. And as poor as it's running you will notice something in the data that's off. Just comparing the data to specified parameters is a good way to check. Most of the time the issue will be easy to see because something will be WAY off.

            -

            Edit... once my ECT said it was 400 degrees Celsius on an October morning.

            I'm unaware of your set up by the way. But sounds like your OBD1 converted H22? If so, like Mike said, a P13 if you had one even to borrow would be able to rule a lot of things out. Which isn't a bad option as it sounds like your relying hand and foot on your friend/tuner in order to pull logs or do anything with the Hondata... Which stinks and is why I spend a couple hundred hours learning about this sort of thing last year. (That and I didn't catch onto it very fast).
            Last edited by H311RA151N; 08-12-2017, 11:51 AM.




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              #7
              yes it is a converted H22A (euro R)

              How would I go about post the datalog here? I did a short one this morning specifically to get a log done and I'm not running the car until I get things figured out. I'm not really waiting hand and foot on anyone, I just pester him when I'm in over my head electronically. I'll try and borrow a P13 and see what happens.

              *I'll do another log with the recommended parameters/sensors

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by Bunta View Post
                yes it is a converted H22A (euro R)

                How would I go about post the datalog here? I did a short one this morning specifically to get a log done and I'm not running the car until I get things figured out. I'm not really waiting hand and foot on anyone, I just pester him when I'm in over my head electronically. I'll try and borrow a P13 and see what happens.

                *I'll do another log with the recommended parameters/sensors
                My apologies, I missed your reply to the thread. I would have to check on how to post up a datalog (to where it's easily and thoroughly legible) I know I've done it on here and on another forum as well. I've only done it once. I didn't mean that in a bad way about the tuner. And by all means, this stuff is tough. I was on here last year talking about how ignorant of tuning and datalogging I was. I'm pretty sure about everyone can and has caught on faster than I did. Honestly, you shouldn't need me to read the log. Although I would be more than glad to. All your looking for is for something to be wacky. Doesn't Smanager have details and parameters as to what each sensor or whatever does? I know most do, AEM does as well as Evoscan, ECULink and I think Halltech does as well.

                Something like:

                Fuel
                The fuel control group contains tuning tables required for fuel injection control.
                Or

                Oxygen sensor 2
                Downstream o2 sensor. Voltage 0.0 to 0.9v.

                In the above instance, it tells you the voltage range or parameters. I'm sure Smanager has this as everything else does. Your looking for something out of the given parameters.

                I can tell you key things and you'd have to venture on with it from that point on. Which is what I did when I learned.

                That's why a P13 would be your best and easiest bet. That would narrow out the computer/tuning. Which is a rather large variable in the mix of things you got going on.

                In the long run, learning the technical side of datalogging and tuning will be very useful if your going to run Hondata. You don't want to have to trust someone or run for help anytime something happens. I'm sure you've heard the horror stories.




                Comment

                  #9
                  yeah, tuning isn't my thing yet but I have (or had) a firm grasp of dataloging and reading the graphs and tables from when I had flashpro (on my 8th gen obviously). I am picking at the problem here and there as I have time but between normal adulating and running a business I haven't had much uninterrupted time to focus on solving it.

                  I don't have anyone near me with a cb7 and this time of year is always tight budget wise with kids going back to school (both mine and other people's). I know it's not likely to be a convoluted solution, something fairly simply is wrong and I just have to figure out what. I appreciate the help though

                  Comment

                    #10
                    It's Alive!!!



                    So it seems clearing the calibration and reloading it solved the issue. No CELs, no surging or hunting idle and I can rev to the moon (8000 rpm's anyway).

                    Took my wife around the block on a warm up drive, rolled into it and it broke loose like a funny car on greased Teflon.

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