92 cb coupe drag build questions

[Blackcoupe91]

This is my first Honda build it's a 92 coupe I've already gutted it skinned hood and doors got all ac and heat stuff from under dash ordered a track bar and D2 Dr coilovers I'mma pull the motor and rebuild it with 12:1 pistons and 100 shot of gogo juice what bearings do y'all recommend? What clutch? What size slicks can I run? What can I cut out to save more weight? Can I weld my diff like a red car? What cam should I use Delta 282 or a bisimoto 2.4? Where can I find a cam gear? And what ecu do I use is a p28 still the go to?
What drag wheels are available? And is it true fwd will break windshields on hard launches?

Sorry for all questions just wanting to cover everything and yes I'm running an f22a1 and do aftermarket h23 intakes fit I know a guy with a golden eagle intake he said I could have. And if y'all think I missed something please tell me and any added suggestions are appreciated looking for low 12s high 11s

[AhYesCB7]

Read Maximum Boost by Corkey Bell.

Im not an expert by any measure but I dont think you're going to see 12s all motor in this particular car AS EASY and CHEAP as you would with boost.

It doesnt make sense to me to take an engine that likes boost from the get go, and try to make it scream all motor, which is more time and money consuming in the grand scheme of things.

[Blackcoupe91]

It's not all motor it'll have n20

[AhYesCB7]

You got me there.

[Blackcoupe91]

ya I cant deside if I want 100 or 150 worth if I did turbo itd be high comp turbo and they just don't last

[deevergote]

If you build the engine properly, turbo lasts just fine. If you expect the stock engine to hold any form of forced induction, it won't last long at all. You're building it with forged internals, so you cold very easily go turbo (lower compression would be necessary, unless you're REALLY good at tuning, and you'll be running at consistent temperatures, and with meth injection... it CAN be done.) If you haven't bought your internals yet, you could always go lower compression. You can get a pretty decent turbo kit from Treadstone Performance that won't break the bank.

Clutch depends on your horsepower output. Get a quality brand clutch rated for your power level. You don't need something rated for significantly higher, as that's overkill (and will result in accelerated wear and transmit unnecessary shock to your engine and transmission.) Brands like ACT, Spec, Competition, Clutchmasters, and a few others with similar pricetags should be what you're looking at. Avoid cheap junk like XTD or F1. You'll be able to tell junk by the price. If the price is too good to be true, then it IS too good to be true. Pay for quality, unless you like dropping your transmission frequently.

To cut weight, drop anything you don't use. AC, power steering, seats... There's a weight reduction thread in the Racing section of this site, though it's far less complete than I had hoped it would be by now. Just don't toss anything structural or safety related. We had a guy that got his car down to 1800lbs, but it was ready to twist itself into a pretzel. He ended up having it towed to a scrap yard.

Don't weld your diff. Buy a proper LSD if you want increased traction. Quaife, Kaaz, M-Factory, Cusco... all good options. Pick the one that does what you need. Quaife would've been my choice on my own car. If you want to risk a cheaper part, OBX makes one that is supposedly decent. It's a knockoff of the Quaife design, I believe... so buy that at your own risk if you go that route. I've heard both good and bad things.

If you want a cam, buy from Delta or Web. Bisimoto will probably send you a stock camshaft. He's done it before. Be sure to look into camshaft profiles to see what will work best with nitrous. A balls-out N/A profile may not be most effective. You don't want to be blowing the majority of your air/fuel/nitrous charge out the exhaust valves on overlap (especially if there's a chance of ignition as the valves are closing... no bueno.)

Cam gear, look for quality. There are plenty of brands out there. AEM is what I had for my H22A. Bisimoto has a gear that is supposedly good, but you can probably tell my opinion of Bisimoto by my previous comment...
Many people consider adjustable cam gears to be more hassle than they're worth. Unless you want to spend significant time on a dyno tweaking the thing, I'd say don't bother.

For an F22A, the P06 is the cheaper and easier to find option. Basically a P28 without the VTEC circuitry. Since you're not VTEC, you don't need that, or the higher price that comes with it. They come from the same year Civic, only the lesser models.

Drag wheels depend on what you want. There are MANY wheels available for the CB's lug pattern. It's not the most popular, but the selection is good. Diamond Racing makes widened steel wheels if you want to go that route. Most people can get away with a decent lightweight forged wheel. Depending on the width you want, your selection may be limited. Due to the CB's suspension design, you're limited in the width you'll be able to run anyway.

H23A1 intakes will fit. JDM H23A VTEC intakes will not.

Never heard of anyone breaking a windshield launching a FWD car. We have guys on here making 700+hp, and that has never been an issue.


Also, D2 coilovers are absolute junk. If you already bought them... that sucks. If you haven't bought them yet, I suggest looking elsewhere. You should always buy your suspension components from ACTUAL suspension companies. Companies that actually engineer, manufacture, and test their components. Brands like D2, TruHart, Raceland, Emusa, and at least half a dozen others are just generic copycats. They use low grade materials, imprecise machinery, and little to no quality control with their products. They rely on the ignorance of their target market to sell their products via word of mouth (when you're replacing blown 20 year old stock components with stiff knockoff junk, you tell everyone how great the knockoff junk is!)
Hell, D2 even stole their logo from a German telecom company that used to sponsor Mercedes Benz DTM race cars. D2 plastered pictures of these cars all over their site, and people took them seriously. It was pathetic.

For a drag car, you could easily get away with some Koni Yellows and either a set of H&R Race springs or some Ground Control sleeves (if height adjustment is important.) The Koni shocks will be sufficient to combat squat on launch when set to full stiffness. On a drag car, that's really all you need. Well, that, and something that will keep your front end stable and pointed straight. I wouldn't trust D2 garbage to do that for long...

[Blackcoupe91]

ya I already ordered em all I could find was d2 or k sport but I aint cut too much out yet I skinned the hood and truck and cut a bunch of holes in the doors and a couple ther places and I got a good tuner but I can get a h22a for $250 that needs a head gasket but the top of the sleeves has like a nick in it I ordered 2 13x8 steel basset wheels for $120 and some 24.5x9-13 mickey thompsons but I can get an f20b for 450 runs fine with less than 100k on it and ive just always been a nitrous fan I agree turbos are better but Idk I'm different but I guess I could do nitrous and a big turbo

[accordlove]

ya I already ordered em all I could find was d2 or k sport

Have you heard of function and form? I haven't heard of anyone having problems with their coil overs. The type 2s let you adjust the dampening.

[Blackcoupe91]

Ok I want the height adjustment too cause I'mma do the typical ass end jacked up thing to try and keep much weight towards the front

[deevergote]

Have you heard of function and form? I haven't heard of anyone having problems with their coil overs. The type 2s let you adjust the dampening.

Also inconsistent knockoff junk.
Buy.
Suspension.
Made.
By.
Real.
Suspension.
Companies.

Your life rides on this stuff. Why does everyone insist on trusting inconsistent, low quality Chinese/Taiwanese knockoff parts? It's not like there aren't multiple quality options open to us. For now, at least.


Ass end jacked up = plenty of room for squat and inertia transfer.

[Blackcoupe91]

I can under stand that buyin an f20b on Friday my buddys givin me a a obd1 h22a distributor and an h22 engine harness he said itll work perfect for my swap I have a p72 I think it is from a b16 delsol I canceled my order for the d2s cause I did research after you tellin me bout them and a lot of horror stories what do you recommend for the best drag setup another question do the big over the head front facing intakes really build power

[Blackcoupe91]

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[deevergote]

I can barely understand what you're saying. Please use punctuation. You're not texting your girlfriend. You're asking experienced people for help building your car. Please show us the same courtesy we show you. If we can't understand you, we can't help you. Eventually, people won't even try.

If you're getting an f20b, be prepared to order some replacement parts from overseas, since that engine was never sold in the us, and there is no equivalent here. The p72 came from the integra gsr. Make sure it's obd1, or it's useless. You can't use a stock Civic/integra ecu.
I've never seen a front facing intake on any of these engines. I don't imagine they make much power at all. An Accord Euro R intake is generally the best thing for an h22a or anything similar. Beyond that, ITBs.

[KBA]

I can under stand that buyin an f20b on Friday my buddys givin me a a obd1 h22a distributor and an h22 engine harness he said itll work perfect for my swap I have a p72 I think it is from a b16 delsol I canceled my order for the d2s cause I did research after you tellin me bout them and a lot of horror stories what do you recommend for the best drag setup another question do the big over the head front facing intakes really build power

The front facing intake is called RAM-AIR system. It is also used on a lot of motorbikes. It will for sure make power, provided that your engine management system can account for the pressure changes. This is done by employing the MAP sensor into action.
Now obviously, the ram-air will only work with speed and even for that it has to be designed well. I once did some basic CFD sims on a system like that and found that I can increase the manifold pressure by 0.02 bar at just 60 MPH on a very bad design.

[deevergote]

The front facing intake is called RAM-AIR system. It is also used on a lot of motorbikes. It will for sure make power, provided that your engine management system can account for the pressure changes. This is done by employing the MAP sensor into action.
Now obviously, the ram-air will only work with speed and even for that it has to be designed well. I once did some basic CFD sims on a system like that and found that I can increase the manifold pressure by 0.02 bar at just 60 MPH on a very bad design.

I wonder if such a design would be very effective on a drag race car. Once the car gets up to speed enough to truly take advantage of the intake, I'd imagine the race would be over!