Rust removal

[TheSnigg]

Yea I have a lot to consider. It's not that I have a strong emotional attachment to my current chassis it is that so much work and time has already gone into it. So far here is what had been completed:

H23a swap on innovative mounts (obd1 w hondata s300)
Manga flow exhaust and extended down pipe to get rid of the cat
Full suspension overhaul: all hardrace hardened rubber bushings and rare parts ball joints.
Hardrace rear camber kit
Gecko coils
5lug swap with RL caliper (odyssey knuckles sand blasted and painted)
SS lines (custom front/technica rear)
Stop tech rotors & ebc red-stuff pads
Fully redone interior:
01 accord leather seats
reupholstered vinyl panels
Sem respray (it's a light tutone theme) including headliner
Double din stereo
Pioneers all around
MTX powered sub
Eyelid grill (still primered)

There is prob a few more things I'm forgetting as well.

I also swaped the doors and internal parts and run channels from a clean coupe I found in the yard because mine were pretty dented up. I prob should have grabbed the panels at this point.

So getting a new chassis would mean re-doing all the work that has been done over the course for these past two years. Which is pretty much rebuilding the car again and I'm not sure I want to go through that process again esp being so close to having this completed and a baby on the way.

[TheSnigg]

There's a very good chance that will rot out underneath your repair. Likely to the point where it cannot be salvaged. It's been tried many times. The result is always the same. There is no luck or skill involved. The outcome is inevitable.

When it starts rotting is it the fiberglass that rots l or the metal that starts rusting again? Or where they join?

[deevergote]

The metal. Could be where they join, or elsewhere behind it. The fiberglass repair can hide the spreading rust until it is much more severe.